Rearing problem..... - Page 2

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Rearing problem.....

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        12-12-2006, 10:44 AM
    I am so greatful for your replies.

    Something else you should be doing, and you may be already doing this is making sure your horse is de-sensitized to your tools. When I stop the horse and approach him, I rub his head with the rope in my hand, I also rub my training pole around all of his body and legs, head etc
    Yes, I do de-sensitize him. This is something I was taught by a friend of mind. I use my lead rope, lunge line, training pole, etc. (whatever I have in my hand) and rub all over him. I throw the rope behind him, around him, over his eyes, head and ears to get him used to things around him.

    I also lightly message their spine and shoulders, hindquarters, legs chest after a work out to see if their is any sensitive spots I need to know about.
    I will start doing this.

    When a horse appoaches me during a stop break during lunging I tell them "back" and point straight at them, if they are unsure of what I am saying I will wiggle the rope till they take a few steps back.
    Then I pause a minute and walk up to them speaking to them and rub them with my hand and the rope and pole.
    I will definitely use this procedure when he starts walking towards me when I whoa him on the lunge line. Again, thanks so much.

    I am reading John Lyons (The making of a perfect trail horse) in my spare time. Right now, I work 5 days a week, but after the first of the year, I will be back to my normal 4 days a week w/ Wednesday's off. I am really excited to get outside on those Wednesday's, in the roundpen w/ my horses. Today, it's raining but the weekend is almost going to reach 60 degrees where I live(Western Ky). So I'm hoping Sat & Sun I will be able to work with my horses and use your techniques in the roundpen.

    Last night when I was taking hay to the barn, Charlie was again crowding my space. Everytime I tried to go towards the barn w/ the hay, he would move in front of me and block my path. Naturally, I moved out of the way, then remembered "Charlie just made ME move MY feet." I then stood still & kicked at him with my right leg, not touching him. Charlie moved out of my way & let me pass. I then walked passed him. I hope that was Ok. I was carrying an arm full of hay and couldn't set it down. So I used my only other source.


    I'll update you on my progress within the next few weeks.

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        12-13-2006, 08:47 PM
    Good Luck I am confident you both will be able to accomplish what you are setting out to do.
        12-14-2006, 09:02 PM
    I am no trainer also, but after seeking advice for Annie when she reared, bucked and charged on the lunge, this is what I was told:

    If she starts bucking and rearing when you are lunging, shorten the rope and kind of snap like you would do with a whip. If you take control they will know it.

    As for your horse bucking and rearing on the lunge. Get yourself in a good position when she goes to buck - stand about at her hip and maybe 3 feet away from her... and pull her head in, this should stop her. If she goes to rear up on you go back to her hip again and DRIVE her forward with your voice/lead/whip - whatever it takes... then keep her moving. If she goes to buck, stop her again... just keep going until she'll go once around nicely, then stop. By allowing her to get away with this behavior and tip-toeing around her you are telling her SHE is the boss of the situation, and you can't have that.

    Have a lunging whip with you and ask him for the canter if you think he's going to do it again, be prepared..snap the whip and use that mommy tone voice..because you should be very angry with tell him that ..yell "NO! GET GOING!" and snap the whip and just force him to keep going..if he doesn't want to listen to that then you can slow him down a little and get him to a complete stop to calm him..BUT you shouldn't give up..if you know he doesn't like to do that then you have to keep pushing until he does it without acting up or he'll learn that you're scared of that and he won' that his bad side?..because I know some horses don't like to lunge on their bad side becuase it's uncomfortable for them..s oyuo might need to work him slower on that side if it is.

    I hope this might help you a little. Good Luck!
        12-14-2006, 09:51 PM

    Have you checked for soundness issues?
        12-15-2006, 11:41 AM
    Kristy, no I haven't tested for soundness? How would I go about doing this?

    Sparky, Thanks I will definitely try this tomorrow & Sunday.

        12-16-2006, 12:52 AM
    Originally Posted by Missi
    Kristy, no I haven't tested for soundness? How would I go about doing this?

    I believe the best thing to do would be to call a vet to do a soundness/lameness check. It's similar to a pre-purchase exam that exams all areas of the horse for any signs of pain. Lameness or being unsound could easily be the source of all your problems. If you have someone very experienced and familiar with horses, ask them to evaluate your horse if you do not wish to call your vet. It is very important to know your horse is sound and not in pain before you continue on assuming that it's a behavior problem. Let us know how things go.
        12-17-2006, 08:43 PM
    This weekend was successful. It wasn't 100% but I am making progress.

    Charlie finally learned to do his lateral flexions. He's still learning but not got it down like Chance does. (As soon as I get in the saddle on my bay, he automatically flexes his head to my left boot. I have to put light pressure on him to flex his head to my right boot because the right side is his bad side. But he does both sides the moment I get on him) CHarlie finally turned his neck instead of his entire body when I put light pressure on either rein. It took us awhile but he finally figured it out. Now the barnsour problem, is still a problem. I see I will have to really work with him on this. This isn't just going to take 30 minutes to fix. I worked w/ him Sat & Sun. He just doesn't want to go away from the barn. I have to fight him each & every time. He doesn't want to go the way I point him. Today, I walked him up to the barn; when I tried to turn him, of course he fought me on it. I finally got him away from it and walked back to the barn. Got off of him and worked him in a small circle for 10 minutes, got back on him and walked away (again with some fighting) from the barn (to the other end of my field), stopped him and just stood there with him while I was still under saddle. I made sure he was turned away from the barn. My thinking was that he'd figure out if he would just go the way I ask, he could rest and I'd leave him alone. We did this a few times. I didn't see any improvement in him but like I said this is going to take some time. I am proud I made progress w/ the lateral flexion though. Oh... earlier today when I was on Charlie, I got him to flex to the right, he then opened his mouth as if trying to bit my foot. How can I prevent him from doing this? He popped up on me just once the entire weekend. It was today when he was pissed because I was trying to get him away from the barn. He didn't rear on the lunge line either. I guess the biggest problem w/ Charlie is this barn sour thing.

    Chance did really well in the round pen today. I rode him out in the field. He acted up a little but nothing I couldn't handle. I rode him back to the round pen and then got off him.

    I wish I could be confident enough in myself and either one of these horses to take off one day by myself. I guess I can make that a goal for this next summer.

        12-17-2006, 09:24 PM
    Barnsour is something I've seen horses sold over. It is a difficult thing to overcome mainly because of how much time it takes to get over it. When my horse was initially getting barnsour, I made being near the barn uncomfortable. We use to leave the barn, go to the arena up the hill, work, go immediately inside, untack and either be turned out or given a treat in the stall. Why wouldn't he be barnsour? I then began working him in the arena very close to my barn. Initially, when I worked him near the barn, he was very difficult to maintain. It took patience and not backing down in order for him to finally give up his battle. The important thing with my horse in that situation was to never give in to his fits. This would only set us back and prove to him bad behavior is rewarding. I also ended on good notes. If he did something I asked, even if it were small, the session was over. If he was exceptionally good, the session ended quickly. He slowly began to understand that going near the barn did not necessarily mean our session was over.
    I then took him away from the barn to graze on a lead line without doing any work. After repetition, he began to understand going away from the barn meant relaxation and no working.
    In the beginning it was very difficult coming back to the barn. He was very unsteady and I knew that I was in a dangerous situation. I tried to end the session early and safely, without giving in. We did a lot of standing, walking forward and if his tempo increased, I turned sharply and made him walk back to his original spot. Repeat. If he began pacing, prancing or moving to the side, I turned him in a sharp circle to get him moving forward but not moving everywhere. Eventually, he would stop turning after realizing I was not asking him to move forward. We then began the process again. I wanted a slow and paced walk before we were to the gate, rather then rushing forward and acting out. Since this was a dangerous situation with his bad behavior, I didn't ride again in that area until I allowed him to graze there, trying to ease the bad experience. When we were done grazing, we walked back to the barn. If he rushed or ran over me, I stopped, backed and then went forward. He soon began to listen. Later when I rode in this area, he was more relaxed and responding.
    When going back, I took him past the barn door several times and ocassionally went inside a different way. Rather then putting him away or turning him out immediately, I put him in the cross ties, took off his tack and allowed him to stand there. I then did things I needed to do while he was waiting. I normally clean his stall, clean up and put away tack. After about 30 to 45 minute of waiting, he is then turned out or put in a stall. I stopped giving him treats and substituted a scratch on the neck. Treats contributed to him rushing back to the barn.
    I now have a well mannered horse who does not rush me. I still do the things listed, such as working in different places and relaxing in different places. It helps maintain his patience. It took time and a lot of patience and understanding (as well as anger management). Remember to reward for the small things! I believe that a successful session does not have to be perfect bahavior but more so effort from the horse and willingness to do as commanded.

    Have someone with you or near by when dealing with this problem! Update us further!
        12-27-2006, 02:41 AM
    1. Get a chiropractic.
    2. Get a performance dental.
    3. Get out of the round pen.
    4. Get your saddle blankets wet.

    If these fail, get a trainer.

    1. Nine times out of ten, rearing is either chiro or dental or a combination. It may seem like the horse is balking because it;s being stubborn. It may be stubborn cause it hurts.

    2. Too many people spend way too much time in the round pen. I trained a big 16 hand quarter horse last summer that the people had just roundpenned to death. The hores would flat not move out under saddle in a round pen without rearing. The minute I got him out of the round pen and gave him somewhere to go, he was an awesome horse.

    3. The best training tool in existance is wet saddle blankets. I've heard it a thousand times, and said it at least as many. Ray Hunt has said it...."When all else fails, ride your horse."

    4. If you are out of your league, admit it before you get crippled or killed, and bring the horse to a trainer.
        02-03-2007, 07:04 AM
    Hi Missi,

    As far as rearing under saddle goes have you tried the good old egg trick?? A very English method but worked every time for me!!!

    Lol now you have to be careful not to make a mess in your pocket and you do need a certain amount of confidence but heres what you do.......... time you are schooling or taking him out take a few eggs with you.
    The next time he rears keep one hand on both reigns and take an egg out of your pocket. Then without force crack the egg over the horses head (when the horses front legs are off the floor - it is too late once the front hooves have reconnected with the ground) The idea is not to cause the horse pain but to make the horse think it has banged his head on something due to his behaviour in rearing.

    I don't know if this will work for you but it has never failed for me!!


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