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The shame of a nappy horse!

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    04-09-2012, 10:12 PM
  #11
Yearling
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenbryerfarms    
What are you feeding her? Is it anything diffrent? I have this issue now with my arab and my rescue colt. But this is how I have always gotten rid of the problem both horses saddled up two ridders ride away from one another come togeather again and ride away... repeat takes days. But it works.
Actually greenbryer her food is something that I am looking closely at. On the previous property she was on nice dry stock grass. However where we are now is dairy pasture (fast growing, high in nitrogen) and there is also some kikuyu grass mixed in and some plants which I don't recognize. So I am going to start her on a course of detoxifier and supplements.

Unfortunately my sister doesn't ride her horse, getting a saddle on Arlia is on my list of things to do as she is a lovely SB, very sweet and willing. It is a shame to have her stuck in the paddock 24/7. This is one of the reasons I really don't want to separate the two horses. I love to see them so happy together. In a perfect world it would be nice to be out and about with both horses. I am hoping that by getting Arlia going my sister will get over her nerves and get back on the horse.
     
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    04-09-2012, 11:48 PM
  #12
Super Moderator
Some horses get herd bound very quickly. Some of the worst are those that have not had a herd of their own. Yours has just found the herd of her dreams.

You are almost fighting a losing battle until you teach her that she should be happy to leave her herd and that she will return back to her herd. As long as she has 'separation anxiety', she is going to to be a total b**ch.

I have tried all kinds of ways to get past the herd separation thing and have decided that nothing works as well as tying the horse up in a safe place well away from the friend and definitely out of sight of her and let her scream, paw and throw her fit.

I have had it take several hours before the tied horse stood quietly and rested a hind foot. When the horse is standing quietly, I just put them back with their buddy and do it again in a day or two.

I have also had it take three full days. I tied the horse out in the morning after it ate and had a drink. I put it back up at night even though it had not settled completely down. By the third day, all of the ones I have separated have settled down and finally rested a hind foot and completely relaxed.

Subsequent days, I would tie the horse out until it was relaxed and then saddle it up and ride it. Pretty soon, you have an obedient horse back and do not have the downside of have had fight after fight with it to get it this way.

It helps that we have always had 10 or 12 of them around that needed to be ridden. If one acts silly about leaving its herd, we just tie it up and ride a different one. We just got through starting 12 new horses under saddle. Every single one of them had lived their entire life in herds of 6 to 10 horses. Every one of them went through this. We would just catch and saddle 3 or 4 of them, tie them in various places and work other ones until we could tie each one out and it immediately stood relaxed. The 'goosey' ones get tied to the fence out by the US Highway (a busy US Highway runs right past our place) where they could also get used to the trucks, cars and motor cycles going by.

This kind of routine works so much better than fighting a reactive horse that I will never fight with one again.

What we end up with are horses that we can ride anywhere with or without other horses, can leave home with only one horse or ride in a strange group and all situations are acceptable to the horses. Young horses with a half dozen rides on them are OK with riding off from the bunch or heading out to the far pasture by themselves.
ButterfliEterna and FaydesMom like this.
     
    04-10-2012, 02:09 AM
  #13
Yearling
Cherie! Thank you so much! That is exactly what I will do. I am so glad that you replied to this thread. I don't have a lot of space, in my perfect world it would be nice to tie Phoenix up well out of ear shot of the other horse as well. However I am not going to be able to get that much distance between the two of them. Definitely out of eyesight but in earshot will this still be ok?
     
    04-10-2012, 04:33 PM
  #14
Yearling
Quote:
Originally Posted by dressagedreamer    
necrophilia is an erotic attraction to corpses.....i think you meant necrophobic as in necrophobia. Lol sorry.....just made me laugh

Either one will make you sweat! Lol
I laughed also


My mare does this, just out of nervousness, but once she calms down, she's great, but the first 30-45 min, she is sweatting bullets, and she's a lone horse in the pasture!
     
    04-11-2012, 06:20 AM
  #15
Weanling
Cherie, good advice. One question, though - what's your method for tying a puller?
     
    04-11-2012, 09:39 AM
  #16
Super Moderator
I use 2 or 3 different ways with pullers. It kind of depends what they do. Some just set back and then come forward and stand. I have one like that now and will probably work on him today. He is a 10 year old Registered Gelding that is solid to ride and this is his only problem. I took him in on a 'trade' with a local cowboy that needed a horse with more 'cow' and more quickness. He got him last year and he already would set back but he just dropped the reins to saddle him and ????

A horse that does this gets my 'Be Nice Halter' first or gets a 'body rope' tied around his girth and run up between his front legs and through his halter.

It is more important where you tie them. I tie pullers to one of my oilfield tanks. We have 3 tanks, a 300 barrel and two 400 barrel tanks. [One is a tack room and the two big ones hold over a semi load of feed each.] They are 12 feet in diameter and 15 or 20 feet tall -- depending on capacity. They are smooth, weigh several tons each and aren't going anywhere.

We have welded horse shoes on them about 7 feet above the ground to tie to. When we have a puller, we use a 15 foot nylon rope with a 5 inch bull-snap. We run the rope through one horseshoe and tie it off to another one 6 feet away. We use a quick-release knot.

If horses always fall over when they set back or try to 'self-destruct', we use a rope tied down from a big tree limb with a little 'give' to it.

I have heard that the Blocker Tie Ring works, but these have always worked well for me.
     
    04-11-2012, 10:42 AM
  #17
Weanling
Interesting, thanks for the info.

I have one mare who pulls back, apparently when startled - although no-one can work out what she's startled by, and who unfortunately, the first two times she did it, managed to break the snap on her rope / take the fence with her. So she learned she could get free. She will pull to the point of rearing/doing a backwards roll.

I tied her using a neck rope and a body rope (bowline, nothing to tighten) - both through a normal strong nylon halter. The neck rope engaged before the body rope did. I hobbled her rear feet so she couldn't get up enough momentum to do tendon damage. At the other end was a ring cut from a tyre around a solid wooden post. I just let her think about it until she was standing quietly - qnd the following day worked on startling her with things. Buckets, tarps, foil, noisy stuff - until she stopped pulling back as a reaction. She started to get it, but I wouldn't say that the pulling instinct is entirely gone yet...

I did wonder about tying her to a highline and letting her find out about it that way, but I couldn't find two trees in the right sort of environment.
     

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