Striking Out At Lunge Whip Help! - Page 3 - The Horse Forum
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post #21 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LadyDreamer View Post
Care to show a picture of how you have the line? "Through the bit and over the head"?
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I run it up through the bit and over the head and then clip the line on the other side.
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post #22 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tbcrazy View Post
Do you have access to a round pen? If it were me (and I've had a nightmare arab gelding who was a stud till he was 10, green broke, and left to sit for 8 years before I came along :/), I would get him moving in a round pen before I attached him to a lunge. This little gelding I was working with also had an AWFUL work ethic- he figured if he got away with not working for 18 years of his life that he wasn't about to start with me! A round pen would allow you to get him moving forward without being attached to a line and worrying about him changing directions or bolting away from you. I worked with mine in a round pen first, added the lunge whip (which when used well is merely an extension of your arm/body) and he got the idea that when the whip/arm moved toward his hip his job was to GO. With a little time and patience, he slowed down and stopped overreacting and bolting forwards. They only time he came in contact with the whip was if he swung his butt towards me or threatened to kick- he would get a good slap on the butt within seconds, then I backed off and stood there like nothing happened. I would ask him to move off again, and 9 times out of 10 he walked off calm with the whip pointed at his hip, which drove him forward. It would be pretty tough doing this on a lunge, and I can see how your frustration would build with him learning that if he switches directions he essentially screws the process up by stopping all forward movement. Overall, I teach a horse forward movement from my body (a whip too if I don't want to be too close) in a round pen first. Then adding a lunge line later tends to be easier. Hope this helps!
Unfortunately I don't have one, but I'm hoping to get one come summer time.

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post #23 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 10:55 PM
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Unfortunately I don't have one, but I'm hoping to get one come summer time.
Darn! Paddock or small area of any sort to be able to turn him loose in?
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post #24 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 PM
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Yup^^^^^thats how I was taught to put a lunge line on a bridle, that way the bit offer equal contact and if the horse drags against you for any reason you won't drag the bit through his mouth......good for youngsters or upstarts!!!!!

Now getting back to the whip issue.....I agree with Cherie for the most part. I use the whip as a blocking aid and a driving aid, like an extension of my arm. But when I use a whip, I do it once, do it right.......when a horse had me on (or tries too!) while lunging, like kicking out at the whip (which is essentially an extension of me) I let him know that it bites and I'll sting his butt and make him move off, but as soon as he moves I lower the whip. I also use it to direct the horse.....I once had one horse that had a habit of whipping into the circle and facing me....essentially trying to be lazy and quit working.....the whip allowed me to block him from going anywhere but forward through the only door I left open for him.....so it was a training tool but also a disciplinary tool also......however after every session lunging a horse, as I walk out of the arena I rub the horse over with the whip......none of them freak out.....they all understood what I wanted, the associated the discipline with me.....not the whip..........
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post #25 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Darn! Paddock or small area of any sort to be able to turn him loose in?
Relatively small rectangular paddock?

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post #26 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 PM
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Ah, thanks. What I would do would be to teach him to lunge from a flat buckle halter, or better yet, a good rope halter. Hook it under the chin. You will have more control until he figures stuff out. Remember the KISS method. Don't worry about anything fancy. Don't try to work on step 7 until he can do 1-6.

To me, how you have it is strange and unnecessary. I am very interested in what putting the rope like this accomplishes.
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post #27 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 11:00 PM
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Ah, thanks. What I would do would be to teach him to lunge from a flat buckle halter, or better yet, a good rope halter. Hook it under the chin. You will have more control until he figures stuff out. Remember the KISS method. Don't worry about anything fancy. Don't try to work on step 7 until he can do 1-6.

To me, how you have it is strange and unnecessary. I am very interested in what putting the rope like this accomplishes.
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I just commented at the same time as you about the lunge line/bit set up.....a lot of dressage trainers use this method to have even contact on the bit, no yanking of the bit through the mouth.....it's how I was taught....years ago....
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post #28 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 11:02 PM
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Oh thanks, Muppetgirl. Still looks unnecessary to me. I will stick to my way. Still would be the first thing I would change.
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post #29 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 11:03 PM
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Relatively small rectangular paddock?
One lady I work with has a small (50 feet across or so) fairly rectangular paddock she ground works her horses in, similar to a round pen. I suggested she get 4 10foot panels, and put one for each corner- it didn't make the area completely round, but it did eliminate the corners so she could get her horse going in consistent circles/ovals. It wasn't a perfect set up, and I wouldn't have recommended it for working colts since it was just post and rail, but for what she needed it worked just fine. Does my description make sense? It was a cheaper fix until she could get a round pen- she really just needed a space to work a lazy horse off lead.
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post #30 of 37 Old 12-02-2012, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tbcrazy View Post
One lady I work with has a small (50 feet across or so) fairly rectangular paddock she ground works her horses in, similar to a round pen. I suggested she get 4 10foot panels, and put one for each corner- it didn't make the area completely round, but it did eliminate the corners so she could get her horse going in consistent circles/ovals. It wasn't a perfect set up, and I wouldn't have recommended it for working colts since it was just post and rail, but for what she needed it worked just fine. Does my description make sense? It was a cheaper fix until she could get a round pen- she really just needed a space to work a lazy horse off lead.
Could I just lay fence rails on the fence to block the corners?

Thank you for feeding us years of lies. Thank you for the wars you left us to fight. Thank you for the world you ruined overnight. But we'll be fine, yeah we'll be fine.
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