Stubborn grass hog! - Page 2 - The Horse Forum

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post #11 of 24 Old 04-13-2013, 03:03 PM
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When you are on the ground, you shouldn't give him enough leadrope to get to you with his back feet. If he is trying to kick you while you lead, you need a whip in your hand. When he tries to kick, you need to make him think you are going to kill him. I'm not advocating really injuring him, but give him a serious lesson.

I would not ever, ever tolerate him eating while you ride. Use your crop and keep his head up. My horses don't even ask to eat while I am mounted. They know it is not allowed because fighting a horse about grazing on the trail is one of my pet peeves. If they need to graze for nutritional reasons, I will get off and let them. Work is work and eating time is eating time. I never mix the two even for one second.

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post #12 of 24 Old 04-13-2013, 09:38 PM
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If you can sense when he's thinking about trying to graze, that is the time to correct. A double set of guns in the ribs usually puts my horse on the straight and narrow.

If he starts to cut up, you need to have the assertiveness to make him work and HARD.

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post #13 of 24 Old 04-13-2013, 09:51 PM
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I second DA and Corporal, this horse needs a correction, quick and hard.

I always differentiate between when it's okay for them to eat around me and when it isn't.

In a halter, they don't eat unless I walk away or I toss the lead over their back. They are never allowed to snatch so much as a single bite while I'm leading them. If I walk up to them while they are grazing and grab the lead, I'll give them a nudge with the halter and if they don't pick their head up, I will generally do like Corporal and give them a solid thump with the toe of my boot just under their jaw.

When they are saddled, they don't eat unless I walk away or remove their bridle and hang it on their saddlehorn.


They don't ever eat when I'm riding them. Young horses who try are put to work. Old horses who try either get popped hard on the ass with a bridle rein or they get a spur in the ribs.

Always remember that feeling of looking at a big, open country over the ears of a good horse, seeing a new trail unwind ahead of you, and that ever-spectacular view from the top of the ridge!!! Follow my training blog: http://robertsontraining.blogspot.com/
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post #14 of 24 Old 04-13-2013, 10:52 PM
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I do let my mare eat on the trail, but only when I say it's ok or if she can grab a snack without pulling (the grass can get quite tall or leaves and fresh twigs make great snacks). If it's not at walking-head-height and in line with the trail, she knows she is not allowed and never tries anymore.

That said, a few years ago, one day my son wanted to ride. At the beginning of the ride, she tried put her head down to graze. Because my son was young at the time and not a rider, she could get the reins out of his hands or pull him forward. I told him to wrap the reins around the saddle horn. She quickly figured out that my son was as strong as she was, and she stopped. She was great for him the rest of the ride.

For the OP, it sounds like you have more than grazing trouble going on. I agree with the posters that encourage more training for respect. And how is it that he can even reach you to kick when he is on a lead? Your lead should never be that long.
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post #15 of 24 Old 04-13-2013, 11:00 PM
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Well I'm glad I'm not the only chin thumper around here........last time I made this suggestion on the forum I was chewed out for 'kicking my horse in the head'........and yeah when I walk in my horses stall carrying my 30lbs of saddle, saddle pad and bridle if my horse doesn't move over so I can saddle him I swing my boot then too......
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post #16 of 24 Old 04-13-2013, 11:26 PM
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While most of the advice is sound advice?

I hesitate to tell OP to use it because I do not get the feeling from what little has been said that she has the internal attitude that is needed to deal with this.

In other words?

I feel he will up the ante on her.

If a correction is made, but horse senses that the corrector can't back it up? Horse will come out worse, and determined to win too.

OP, you really really need to get a trainer to help you on the ground to show you the attitude and the corrections needed here.

I would also venture to guess, with horse feeling free to kick at you, there are many other areas where this horse is running the show.

And to deal with that? Takes boots on the ground.

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post #17 of 24 Old 04-14-2013, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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To clarify...I don't walk him on a long lead. The time he was able to kick me was because he pulled the rope through my hands when I tried to yank him away from the grass, leaving me holding onto the end of the rope.
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post #18 of 24 Old 04-14-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hberrie View Post
To clarify...I don't walk him on a long lead. The time he was able to kick me was because he pulled the rope through my hands when I tried to yank him away from the grass, leaving me holding onto the end of the rope.

You have no control over this horse. He is doing whatever he wants to, and the only time he is doing something you want?

Is because it suits him at that moment.

If you do any of the following. Quit it.

Baby horse, use soothing voice, pet him, praise him, feed treats, ignore things he does, allow him to have pinned ears and nasty attitude, let him be feed dominant.

Any and all of those? Will lead to a horse reading you as submissive. More so if horse is a dominant horse to begin with.

This is how you should be leading horse.

Have lead coiled in left hand, with right hand on lead so that your forefinger is resting along lead and it is pointing to horse.

PAY ATTENTION to the horse, you are missing the cues horse is giving you as to what it is going to do. Raising head, getting belligerent eyes, and quickening steps may be signs you will get. And one ear towards you and other away? Means horse is thinking and that is not a good thing.

Keep horse's throatlatch at your shoulder, so that you can have idea of what horse is up to. Not ahead, and not behind. In this position, you can quickly and firmly correct horse. Keep your eyes open for tempting patch of grass too. Be ready.

If you "feel" in your mind, and you should be able to, the horse drifting off in its mind, take your forefinger nail and lightly and I mean LIGHTLY jab it into side of horse's face, or can turn hand with lead so can use thumbnail instead. I use both. At same time, tell horse "Stop it" and walk on. Do NOT look at horse, just keep gaze ahead of you. And in a bored voice too, no excitement here. Keep walking.

This whole thing is BORING you to tears, and you don't' have the energy for this...just say Stop it. Walk on.

If horse persists? Let horse pull away very slightly, maybe one inch at most and then bring horse back to you at same time you make a knuckle with forefinger and POP horse with it, NOT moving your hand or body, you have brought horse back into your knuckle.

NO indication that you have done anything. Nothing. Just walk forwards.

At your decision, and only yours, then this.....

Stop completely. Dead stop. If horse wants to forge ahead, stick elbow out and, elbow with elbow bent, so elbow point in shoulder as you are still facing forwards. Quick and sharp too.

Never turn to horse to correct him, as you want to be in the attitude superiority position here. Facing horse like this, means you are giving him a chance to negotiate to him and he will be more prone to argue then.

Act as if this is the most boring thing you have ever done.

And at this point? You are NOT his friend, you are HIS BOSS...and he is beneath your notice, so keep that mindset, and breathe it, walk it and think it. Get your shoulders back and OWN that horse.

If you have little brother? Use the attitude that he has stolen something from you and you are going bear hunting with a switch.

Stand there...count to 23 or more....slowly. THEN you decide when to walk. Repeat this.

Any corrections you make have to be sharp, concise and to the point. Shillyshallying around with horse like this will do no good and will get you hurt.

Remember NO BABYING, NO TREATS, NO PRAISE...horse does not deserve any of it and it will make a nice horse into a monster, and a horse that is already a monster? Into a danger to be around.
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Last edited by Palomine; 04-14-2013 at 10:43 AM.
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post #19 of 24 Old 04-15-2013, 10:05 AM
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If you don't own a rope halter, invest in one with two knots on the noseband which sit near the nose bone. He'll listen to this. To let him know how well it works, give him about 6'of lead. Take him for a walk and the moment he moves away, toward you, ahead of you, make and abrupt turn. Hang on tight as it's going to yank on his head. Focus ahead and keep walking and again if you have to change direction. You may have to do this five or six times. By about the third time he doesn't want any more pulling so he'll be keeping an eye on where your shoulders are going. He'll be a little tender behind the ears so now is a good time to take him for a walk on the grass and if you have to repeat the exercise. You may have to do it only once but do it as often as you have to. Horses really respect those halters. To attempt this with a flat halter is an exercise in futility. Now, use the rope halter under your bridle and attach the lead. Only when he's respecting you on the ground should you ride him. Put the halter on under his bridle and attach the lead. Just wearing it maybe enough for him to behave.
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post #20 of 24 Old 04-17-2013, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your responses. Some were helpful...some maybe not so much. I am not an trainer, but not a complete novice either. I have actually corrected a lot of problems that my horse started out with when I first got him. I really appreciate people who actually give me advice about how to deal with a situation, rather than those who just want to put me down and tell me to find a trainer. I do take the advice of people on here and it has helped a lot. Thank you!!
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