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Teaching a horse to slow down their walk/trot etc.

5K views 8 replies 9 participants last post by  luvmyqh 
#1 ·
So Tiki and I were working with Peaches today and we are trying to teach her how to slow down her walk/trot etc.:shock: By the ground and from the saddle for eg... squeezing the reins with both hands like bycicle pumps. She likes to go waaayyy too fast most of the time so teaching her this would be lots of help... incase you guys don't know she is green-broke and that is why I am teaching her this only now!:D If you guys have any tips it would help alot!:) ~Aly:-p
 
#2 ·
so, you are kind of squeezing, releasing, rhythmically? first one hand, then the other? or both at the same time?

Personally, I don't believe in doing anything rhythmical with the reins. because , you cannot always have the release of your hand time exactly with the shore's doing the correct thing you asked it to do. and that's how the horse learns what you want.

I'd use more of my resisting seat to slow a horse. and if you are posting, slow your posting down, regardless of how fast the horse it trotting. this makes your rhythm not match his, and he will slow to match yours to avoid the bumping that happens.
 
#4 ·
All your downward aids are the same - so be sure to use the same aids every time

First of all Check and correct your position and rein length, every time, before you do anything.

Sit tall, legs long, close the leg softly against the pony's side and close your hands. If in walk stop following the head movement.

It's always best to ask for a downward transition when you are going away from the gate/home/barn as the pony is likely to cooperate more or as you come towards the fence or wall so there is something blocking the pony's path.

In trot you can use your rising to slow the pony down - rise a little higher and sit a little longer, so that you set the rhythm. I use this a lot when bringing on TB's off the track as they like to race along.

If you can remember what it was like when you first learnt rising trot - the pony constantly dropped back to walk because you were out of sinc with him. You can use this reaction to your advantage.

Take your time with this basic schooling as its the most important part of the pony's education. Be patient and consistent with your aids, reward with verbal praise and free walk on a long rein.
 
#5 ·
Who is Tiki?

In your other thread you commented your mom is a trainer. If that is the case, you should be asking her these questions ------ she DOES know you are working with this horse without her being around?

I also assume this is the same 12 yr Welsh mare, you refer to in your other thread ---- where you stated your mom is a trainer----------
 
#6 ·
you can work with her in the ground on the lead, walk/jog with her and work on whoa and backing, trot from a halt or directly from backing etc. this gets her listening to your body language and basic cues--the main thing is getting her to listen and respond to your energy and the movement of your body. work up till you aren't using pressure on the leadrope to turn her or stop her(if you want, in an enclosed area tie the lead rope around her neck so you can let go and have her follow you around but yet still grab if needed). If you've got good rapor with a horse it usually doesn't take long to have them focusing on you and mirroring you. again the point is they are paying attention to you and your body language, rather than pulling their head around, is what gives direction as to speed and line. this is really productive before getting in the saddle.

What I have found that works great for slowing, is either circling, or some horses respond well to this thing I call "sit like mountain"

Circling, you use the biggest-smallest circle that works, start big and go gradually smaller till you find out where the horse will start slowing. Use all your aids to circle, and make them a bit more exaggerated for a more inexperienced horse. When you find that circle size, use that size. Horse rushes, circle em till they slow, when they slow let them go straight. Sometimes you'll have to bring the nose around to your toe and do a really tight circle. Try to use the LEAST amount of pull on the rein and really use your legs and weight to get them in that tight circle. Everyone needs to know how to do a one rein emergency stop anyways, so this is good to get the horse and yourself familiar with it--you with how much influence to apply and the horse in feeling it happen and keeping balance etc as it responds. Also, this circling technique is great to know when a horse shys or bolts, you can defuse the energy by letting the horse move its feet but not take off and runaway.

BUT learning the one rein stop technique have a professional SHOW YOU HOW first!!!

I just worked with a horse that rushed and kept trying to take off, I circled her tight, just once(what was needed to break the take off thought) and moved on. I also did a lot of backing(which she was good at) which helped a lot too--"firm" backing, stepping lively, like 8 steps then immediate move forward.

Make sure you are circling both sides.

I worked with another horse that responded well to the "sit like mountain" idea. I would exhale deeply while sinking all my being down into the ground, with as big a sense of relaxation and peace as I could be. He would immediately slow down for 5-6 steps at first, then speed up, by the end of the session(30 min btw) he was relaxed most of the time with a few speeds up when he saw something suspicious(it was a really windy day, so I was really impressed with him, he is a mustang)

dont' be afraid to experiement with what your horse will listen to and respond to. a slower gait should be a RELAXED gait, not just some robot slow pace that is lifeless. I think having RELAXATION as the goal, rather than a certain speed so much, is a better way to think about it, when relaxed the horse will naturally slow down.By far most horses rush because they are nervous, apprehensive, unsure, not listening, bullish etc. address the root cause instead of the symptom.
 
#7 ·
Teaching "slow down" from the ground first can save many misunderstandings and dramas when mounted. Easiest when you're leading the horse! (I don't know about you, but I can't run as fast as my horse can trot! ;-) So the horse learns "slow" by default, haha. And teaching the horse to slow down more is also easier when you can demonstrate it beside him.)
 
#8 ·
A lot of the time when a horse is too forward or 'jiggy' the fault lies with the rider.
What is she like on the lunge? Is she the same or is she happy to just go at the pace you ask for - do you work with verbal cues or do you just drive her around at top speed?
It could be that you need to relax your own riding style, maybe your legs or heels are constantly gripping or nagging at her or that you're using your seat to try to move her along and that all that hand squeezing and too much action on her mouth is making her fractious not calm and settled
 
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