OK, this seems good. And the even better part of it is, that if you do the exercises right you will kill two birds with one stone, in that by teaching your horse to back up, lead, yield everything you will teach it respect at the same time.
Go and check out CA’s gear, like others have said; he seems pretty good. You could just go and get Parelli’s original Natural Horsemanship book too (surely it can’t be that expensive), just because I’m familiar with his gear. Follow what he goes on about in there, and actually read what he says to do (most people don’t and only pay attention to the nice fluffy stuff, so they do a half ars*# job of it and have horses that walk all over them) and you will have the horse moving around how you want and build the respect as you do it. It’s always easier to have someone to help you, but reading the book should give you some ideas about the actual mechanics of how to actually manipulate the horse and equipment to achieve what you want.
In terms of getting the horse to actually do it. Well, I’m guessing you have an uphill battle ahead of you, but stay cool and be persistent, and get tough only when you have to, and I predict, with this horse, you will have to a few times, and she will get the message.
Just remember, set up a situation so that the horse will do what you want, if she doesn’t, ask her, then tell her, then make her do what you want. Apply pressure, and take it away when you get a try out of the horse. If she doesn’t try with a little, up the pressure slightly, and so on till you get a try. Once you consistently get a try with minimal pressure, ask for a bit more, ask for a try and half the accomplishment for example, or maybe just a quarter of the accomplishment, then take out the pressure, and so on till you actually get what you want. Learn to watch her eyes and ears, you will read a lot from those alone, and she could try with just a look or a turn of an ear, horses are pretty subtle; so be ready to drop of pressure with only tiny tries at first.
The good part of it all is that if you do it with consistency, and don’t tolerate any guff from her, (again, she will give you plenty of guff) she will learn that you are the boss. Don’t peck away at her constantly, if she is doing OK, just leave her alone but if she does something like kick or has a bite at you, make her think you are about to kill her, when she backs down leave it at that, short and sweet. If, on the other hand she decides to put up a fight, which she may well do if she has gotten away with a bunch of mischief, you can’t back down, you have to be willing to carry it through to the end, which is her submission, nothing else. And that’s where it can get very dangerous; that’s where you need some experience and you can’t take that part of it lightly because a horses hooves are much harder than any part of your body, they are bigger stronger, have more stamina, fitness and power. What they don’t have is more intelligence; so use your smarts and you should be OK.
If she does get flighty, and you don’t have the confidence to safely take her on and pull her into line, it is better to back down for the meantime, even though it will make it a bit worse next time, and wait till your trainer friend can show you how to do it and get you to do it in her/his supervision, Better that than getting a hoof in the head. I saw my cousin get struck by a from foot in the head from a disrespectful horse, he was experienced and had started plenty of youngsters; even with that experience it was nearly the end for him; just a good thing either he has a really thick scull; or tiny brain. Hoof in the head = very very bad. Be careful.