Turning, Stopping, and Riding a stubborn barn sour horse - Page 2
 
 

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Turning, Stopping, and Riding a stubborn barn sour horse

This is a discussion on Turning, Stopping, and Riding a stubborn barn sour horse within the Horse Training forums, part of the Training Horses category
  • Stubborn draft horse
  • Stopping a horses barn sour behavior

 
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    02-07-2008, 10:09 PM
  #11
Trained
Getting a stronger bit is not the answer. There is a reason why he is being like that. You should do a lot of ground training with him to get him to respect you. There are a lot of natural horsemanship programs out there. By getting a stronger bit, you'll only be hiding the problem. And what happens if you do go to a bit a level up from a snaffle and that doesn't work? Are you going to go harsher? And what if that doesn't work?

I would get a vet out and check for any signs of pain. When was the last time his teeth were floated?
     
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    02-07-2008, 10:35 PM
  #12
Foal
1-first off, do groundwork until your comfortable enough to lead. Then saddle him and lead him as far away from the barn as you can or until he stops paying attention to the barn. Then do some light and easy/rewarding work and take him back to the barn.
2- If your comfortable with him around the barn, try walking away from the barn or fence (if in the arena) until he's uncomfortable, when he decides to go to the barn, work him hard by the barn and take him away from it to stop and rest. I could keep goin with different ideas but try these first.
     
    02-08-2008, 05:26 AM
  #13
Trained
I didnt read the last few posts so I apologise if I repeat anything

1. Don't get a harsher bit!!! Keep the bit you have or maybe even get a training bit. If you do things the right way you shouldnt need to go putting anything harsher in his mouth.

http://www.equisearch.com/horses_rid...ry/frenchlink/

2. Groundwork! Groundwork! Groundwork! It seems to me that it might be good to go right back to the beginning and start with the basics. It might also help you to look into some frank bell or clinton anderson and find some good bonding etc techniques. All these things will slowly help your horse calm down and learn to listen to you.

3. Desensitisation - what was mentioned earlier in the thread about desinsitisation is also a good idea. It is one of the best way to start teaching your horse how to deal with 'scary' situations. He needs to learn to be able to relax

3. Time and patience :) its amazing what can be accomplished with time & patience :)

Good luck with him :)
     
    02-08-2008, 08:54 AM
  #14
Green Broke
Don't be scared of him. Pretend like nothing is happening. I find that alot of horses take advantage of people if they are scared of them. Which only makes the situation worse. Even if a horse freaks, if you freak too it makes the situation 10 times worse.
     
    02-08-2008, 08:09 PM
  #15
Foal
Hehe, this is my kind of topic!!

I have an EXTREMELY barn sour horse... and being a draft horse, she's very strong. I have not ridden her much lately and she is still very barn sour...I wouldn't even dream of riding her bareback, it would be a deathwish.

I have researched barn sour horses and have found a few helpful links...

http://www.alphahorse.com/sour-horse2.html

(Part one is good too.)

Anyway, groundwork is very important here...as is being the horse's leader.

Also, do you have a rope halter? I have found that they respond much better in this type.
Like Delete said, you have to be very confident and show the horse that you are his leader. My horse is opposite in the way that my horse is much easier to lead than to ride.

Good luck!!
     
    02-09-2008, 10:34 AM
  #16
Foal
I have dealt with many barn sour horses. Mine is coming out of it actually.

Anyways, the way I do it, is
1. Lounge the horse (specially if they are high energy horse, I do not do this all the time though)
2. I start with a long lead rope, no chains or anything. I start to walk away from the barn, if there is tugging, pushing any type of undesirable behavior I simply put them to work, lounging, circles, halt back side side for about 8-10 minutes, then we walk as usually and start all over if they are doing something undesirable
3. Once I got the walk better I move to saddle, the minute I get a feet plant, constant calling with like hopping, prancing I put them to work for me, circles, figure eights, tight circle trotts then we go again after awhile horses will realize its easier to do what is asked, less work in the end.
Also this has to be done EVERYDAY, consistency is the KEY! Also don't put him right away when you get back work him for a little bit then put him back. So he associates the barn with work and going away the barn as fun time.

This is all Clint Anderson and John Lyons training, that I model after.
     

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