Unhandled Haflinger *Advice Needed* - Page 3 - The Horse Forum

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post #21 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by trainerunlimited View Post
I've messed with a bunch that way and once you actually start getting hands on them, they gentle down quickly. Keep us updated and good luck!

Yes, I think that it is, once they are relaxed enough for you to touch them then things progress fast. In the Uk we never rope any horses but somehow it is never an issue with the unhandled ones so I'm not sure why you'd have to.
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post #22 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 09:07 AM
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Roping one does not really traumatize a horse.
Possibly true if you know how to rope! I am totally useless, have tried for hours just trying to rope a gatepost and me on the ground. Put me on a horse and try to rope a moving object then it would be well worth filming!
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post #23 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 09:22 AM
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Possibly true if you know how to rope! I am totally useless, have tried for hours just trying to rope a gatepost and me on the ground. Put me on a horse and try to rope a moving object then it would be well worth filming!
You need to have me send you one of King's great rope for beginners. Pretty much what I still use. Very soft. You don't have to fight some wiry thing with a mind of its own like the talented arena ropers use. And it's difficult to rope a gate post. Too high. Try roping a rock on the ground.

I catch horses from the ground. I throw differently than if I were going to rope a cow from horseback.

If I do have to rope on from horseback because it is in a huge pasture, I don't dally. Once roped, I keep my mount staying up with the horse I've caught and gradually ease it to a stop. Just a variation of pressure and release.
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post #24 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Clava View Post
Yes, I think that it is, once they are relaxed enough for you to touch them then things progress fast. In the Uk we never rope any horses but somehow it is never an issue with the unhandled ones so I'm not sure why you'd have to.
I use a long scratching stick to touch them. The horse doesn't want you near but with a long stick you can scratch from a distance and they allow it. Then you move your hand down the stick and scratch. It really works for me. I will scratch for 5 minutes and clean a stall then come back and scratch for another 5 then scrub the water trough. By the afternoon I'm using my hand. I use the stick to touch them all over. My wild filly was letting me halter her in 2 days of this.
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post #25 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 11:24 AM
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If the family is against sedation because they are worried shots would be traumatic, I would go for Oral Dormosedan. It could be mixed with a small amount of grain and fed to the horse by the person she lets feed her.

That way any bad situation where the horse might get injured could be avoided. Being sedated, the horse will probably not remember the handling, the halter can be removed, and training can be continued in a non-emergent manner.

This new oral sedation helped my horse overcome her fear of injections. When she was injured we were able to orally dose her first, then bring on the antibiotic shots and Tetanus. In her groggy, sedated state she began to associate shots with a pleasant sleepiness. They say it is no use to sedate a horse and try to teach them something because they will not remember later. Even so, it seemed to help my horse overcome her fear. Soon we gave her shots without sedation.
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post #26 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 11:53 AM
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If it were me, I would try a feed through tranq. The halter does need to come off if it's getting too small. I would address that first. She probably also needs her feet done, teeth checked etc. So I would take care of all of those things. A feed through will probably be enough to take the edge off of her so a vet can tranq her to get done what needs to be done. That's where I would start, address her heath first.

After that point, you can see what you have. I would start with CA Lunging for Respect type things and see how it goes.

And if the family is against shots, I would tell them to find a different trainer. IJS. I don't put up with people that try to tell me how to do my job. When it's my safety on the line, it gets done my way or not at all.
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post #27 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 11:56 AM
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People can "study" natural horsemanship methods all they want but sitting on a bucket in a round pen for months waiting for the horse to calm down doesn't seem to be going all that well. Maybe by the time she's 20? Time to put those methods into use, but first you have to get your hands on her, obviously for her own good (that halter) and anyone who has to deal with her.
If nobody can rope her is the round pen made of panels? Can it be made smaller literally forming a chute?You surely don't want anyone hurt including the horse so maybe the owner's vet has some idea for a tranquilizer.
It sounds like this horse would be better off with you for a few weeks at least to get this training process started. Hopefully the owners could then continue with her education at a better pace once she can be safely handled.
Scary situation, actually, for people without a lot of experience. I wouldn't want to tackle it. Good luck and keep us up to date please.
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post #28 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 12:03 PM
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Do you have access to a stall? He is never going to get better without an enclosed area. Check out the thread about the unhandled Clydesdale stallion.

I did, "Round Pen Reasoning" (I think it the same thing as Join Up) in a 16 x 20 stall and it worked great. The horse was only slightly wild.

The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, the second best time is today.

Last edited by Taffy Clayton; 03-24-2013 at 12:05 PM.
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post #29 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dustbunny View Post
People can "study" natural horsemanship methods all they want but sitting on a bucket in a round pen for months waiting for the horse to calm down doesn't seem to be going all that well. Maybe by the time she's 20? Time to put those methods into use, but first you have to get your hands on her, obviously for her own good (that halter) and anyone who has to deal with her.
If nobody can rope her is the round pen made of panels? Can it be made smaller literally forming a chute?You surely don't want anyone hurt including the horse so maybe the owner's vet has some idea for a tranquilizer.
It sounds like this horse would be better off with you for a few weeks at least to get this training process started. Hopefully the owners could then continue with her education at a better pace once she can be safely handled.
Scary situation, actually, for people without a lot of experience. I wouldn't want to tackle it. Good luck and keep us up to date please.

No kidding! This is a classic case of 'natural horsemanship' that is misunderstood and misapplied.
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post #30 of 38 Old 03-24-2013, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by boots View Post
You need to have me send you one of King's great rope for beginners. Pretty much what I still use. Very soft. You don't have to fight some wiry thing with a mind of its own like the talented arena ropers use. And it's difficult to rope a gate post. Too high. Try roping a rock on the ground.

I catch horses from the ground. I throw differently than if I were going to rope a cow from horseback.

If I do have to rope on from horseback because it is in a huge pasture, I don't dally. Once roped, I keep my mount staying up with the horse I've caught and gradually ease it to a stop. Just a variation of pressure and release.
Interesting - the rope that was sent to me is stiff, I did try hard on my own (not many ropers in the UK)

Mind you, I cannot see me being able to rope a steer off an English saddle!
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