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Western vs. English? Muy confused...

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        05-11-2014, 08:00 PM
      #11
    Trained
    And different colored Stirrup Leathers! What ARE you thinking? Poor Mia!
    Cherie likes this.
         
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        05-11-2014, 08:04 PM
      #12
    Showing
    Black dressage saddle with brown leathers, and Western saddle pad and headstall. Bsms, I though you LIKED Mia? Poor girl, you're surely going to give her an identity crisis!
    Cherie and bsms like this.
         
        05-11-2014, 08:23 PM
      #13
    Yearling
    I've ridden English for 3 and half ish years now and if I told my coach or anybody at my barn that English riders used primarily their reins they'd laugh me out of the barn. In fact the mare I usually ride in lessons responds best to leg cues.
         
        05-11-2014, 08:29 PM
      #14
    Weanling
    Bob - I don't understand the purpose of tightening the cavesson as tight as possible? Why?
    Palomine likes this.
         
        05-11-2014, 08:42 PM
      #15
    Weanling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Speed Racer    
    Bob, telling a green rider to ditch instruction completely is HORRIBLE advice. What she needs is an instructor who will listen to what she wants to accomplish, and work out a program around that.

    Telling her to go it alone when she clearly acknowledges she wants help in how to ride properly is completely irresponsible. Are you trying to get her hurt?
    Totally disagree, I've told her how to ride and enjoy the horse, and not get hurt.

    If you want to get hurt, just ride a horse with a bit of an attitude in an english saddle. Then ride that same horse a with good western saddle, huge difference both in confidence building and security of seat.

    She is not green, she has been riding for 6 plus years, and is confused about what's proper and what is not. If she rides so it's comfortable for her, it will also be comfortable for the horse, then the horse will also behave much better.

    I suggested a bit for her to use that will be much, much more comfortable for the horse. That too will cause the horse to behave many times better.

    Many, many, times, too much education is just plain confusing.
         
        05-11-2014, 08:44 PM
      #16
    Started
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by bbsmfg3    
    Let's KISS(keep it simple sis). Number uno, get rid of the trianers, you can do it yourself. Number one rule- never, never, ever let the horse do what it wants to do. You stay in control all of the time, even if your wrong. Your probably using and english saddle because it's lighter than a western saddle. BUT, get rid of the english saddle and find a western saddle that's light weight, has a high pommel that you can use to help keep you in the saddle if things get out of hand. Make sure the saddle has plenty of withers clearance, most saddle don't. You need a minimum of 4 inches of clearance from the horses withers to the saddle. Make sure the sadde is comfy for you and the horse
    Get a comfort bit. Something like the myler Comfort bit 89-20015, use a chain curb and but the cavesson back on and tighten it as tight as you can. If he starts getting sore from the curb your in his mouth too much.

    Now ride him in a seat that's comfortable for you. Always have light, very light contact with the bit, no loose reins. Never fight him. Never get in a tug of war, you will always loose the war. When he wants to do something you don't want him to do, make him do something else, any thing, just something different from what he wants. If he wants to go back to the barn, turn him around go away from the barn until he relaxes and knows you are in control.

    Now most important. Just ride him. Don't worry about what's right and proper, be comfortable and ride the hare off of that boy.
    I think this is the most wreckless and dangerous advice i've ever seen given to a newbie on a forum

    As for English being mostly reins/hands. I think my dressage coach just had a stroke at the thought of me reading that lol. I usually end up with one or two dressage lessons a month that my reins are taken away from me and i'm to ride with only my seat. I also have roughly 2 or 3 jumping lessons a year where I am to ride a full course with no reins.
         
        05-11-2014, 08:52 PM
      #17
    Weanling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Customcanines    
    Bob - I don't understand the purpose of tightening the cavesson as tight as possible? Why?
    A tight cavesson forces the horse to keep it's mouth shut, and aids in maintaining consistency with bit contact. Very, very helpful for riders that have a problem with maintaining consistent, but very light bit contact with their hands.

    The very first thing a horse does when it gets agitated is start chewing on the bit. The cavesson reminds the horse that they should not be chewing. Every time they try to chew they are met with resistence.. That resistence redirects the horse's mind away from what ever it was they thought they should be agitated with.
         
        05-11-2014, 09:07 PM
      #18
    Foal
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by bbsmfg3    
    A tight cavesson forces the horse to keep it's mouth shut, and aids in maintaining consistency with bit contact. Very, very helpful for riders that have a problem with maintaining consistent, but very light bit contact with their hands.

    The very first thing a horse does when it gets agitated is start chewing on the bit. The cavesson reminds the horse that they should not be chewing. Every time they try to chew they are met with resistence.. That resistence redirects the horse's mind away from what ever it was they thought they should be agitated with.
    No, the cavesson doesn't. It was originally developed to be used in war and high velocity sports. To prevent the jaw from breaking if the horse has a rotational fall and lands nose first into the dirt.

    The cavesson should be never be fitted so tightly as to prevent the horse from opening it's mouth. It's modern day purpose is to provide a small amount of support for the lower part of the jaw for a horse that is ridden into a contact, to prevent excessive opening of the mouth and also for standing martingale attachment.

    ::: Sustainable Dressage - Tack & Auxillary Equipment - The Bridle & the Bit :::
         
        05-11-2014, 09:16 PM
      #19
    Weanling
    If you are using a tight cavesson to keep a horse's mouth shut even though the rider has heavy hands and/or is using a bit that is too severe, you will probably cause a lot more problems than you would by having a gaping mouth.
         
        05-11-2014, 09:23 PM
      #20
    Started
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by bbsmfg3    
    A tight cavesson forces the horse to keep it's mouth shut, and aids in maintaining consistency with bit contact. Very, very helpful for riders that have a problem with maintaining consistent, but very light bit contact with their hands.

    The very first thing a horse does when it gets agitated is start chewing on the bit. The cavesson reminds the horse that they should not be chewing. Every time they try to chew they are met with resistence.. That resistence redirects the horse's mind away from what ever it was they thought they should be agitated with.
    Oh so very incorrect. A horse can still open its mouth fully when there is a cavesson on. Never mind the fact that is so far from the purpose of it it isn't funny. But others have already explained that.

    Your ignorance is very very very scary.
         

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