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Will NOT Slow Down!

This is a discussion on Will NOT Slow Down! within the Horse Training forums, part of the Training Horses category

     
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        07-31-2009, 07:14 AM
      #21
    Banned
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SpiritJordanRivers    
    Soemtimes I resort to yanking and I REALLY DON'T WANT TO DO THAT!

    He has no respect for the bit.. Running with a snaffle or anything mild doesn't mean you are keeping the horse light. Just the opposite.
    If the horse doesn't respect the bit you have a heavy horse.
    Would it hurt to borrow a western curb bit with a chain and give it a try???

    I am not saying you have to use one but try it, see if it works.. If what you have is not working then experiment with borrowed bits until you get something that works for you.
    A strong bit used softly works alot better then a mild bit used harshly.
    Have soft hands but when the time comes to really set the boy down use everything you have an pull him right on his butt. Teach a little respect and you will have a much lighter horse on the bit.
         
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        07-31-2009, 07:36 AM
      #22
    Banned
    I do not believe in going from a walk to a trot to a canter. I start the canter from a stand still or a walk, never ever from a trot. I want my horse to have a good trot, I want to be able to push that trot so breaking into a canter is not allowed.
    I do not go from a canter to a trot. I go from a canter to a walk, no trotting inbetween. I want to be able to stall the canter to almost a standstill and still have the motion so unless I say WALK he continues to canter, might be almost stopped forward motion but he maintains th rock.

    If I tapped you on the shoulder and then hit you over the head with a 2 x4 it would hurt. How long would it take you to learn that a little tap on the shoulder means to duck????
    If you are loping along and you say WALK and when you didn't get the walk immediately haul him down hard and fast with a big western curb bit. Set him right down using your shoulder and back muscles to haul him into the ground.. It doesn't take long before the walk means something.
    I do work problem horses and usually have run away dropping to a stop in the 3rd try.
    You sometimes have to be rough to be gentle and make a easy going horse
         
        07-31-2009, 07:42 AM
      #23
    Weanling
    The yanking is only until he slows down and is a complete last resort if nothing else works. I DON'T do it often. I don't want to switch him to a harsher bit, I want him to learn to respond to the softer bit. Some days he great! He slows down with only voice commands. He'll go from a walk to a canter then slow down with barely even any contact with the bit. Then on some days, he's really bad and he won't slow down.

    He doesn't know how to canter on the lungeline yet.

    It's not a pain issue, tack fits great. I'm using a Eggbutt Snaffle. I don't have any videos, I don't know when he's going to be fast and when he's going to be slow at the canter.

    He's transitioning from a harsher bit, to a softer bit and the lady at the tack shop said that it was hard, but that it could be done. It's like, his mouth is really soft for the walk and the rack, but it's like when I ask for the canter all he wants to do is run. Should I free lunge him first?

    I like the circles idea
         
        07-31-2009, 09:17 AM
      #24
    Foal
    I am on a lesson horse that is like that and I don't know what you ride but I have to be on this horse because my horse can't jump and after every jump he bolts and I just give a little wrist and pretend that I am squeezing a sponge between my fingers. It always helps and if you try this don't try to much. Keep your hands down by saddle pad and just "whisper" the reins. Lol my instructer is very colorful in her vocab. But try this, it might work.
         
        07-31-2009, 10:54 AM
      #25
    Banned
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SpiritJordanRivers    
    The yanking is only until he slows down and is a complete last resort if nothing else works. I DON'T do it often. I don't want to switch him to a harsher bit, I want him to learn to respond to the softer bit.
    That's where your thinking is backwards. A harsher bit used softly most of the time and harshly only when necessary makes a softer horse. One that responds to the first light signal because is knows what is coming if it doesn't.
    From your signature picture I say you have a problem. While rearing horses might look good to some to me it means a bad horse.n Rearing on command is easy to teach but becomes a pain down the road.
    I too was young once. I am older and wiser now
         
        07-31-2009, 11:04 AM
      #26
    Banned
    I demand that any horse I own side passes really well. I want him to flow away from my leg with the slightest touch. How do I get this?? I first teach them to sidepass and I do use spurs. I then lightly cue them and expect an immediate response by flowing away from my leg. If they do not I bump them hard with that spur. No light touch, a quick hard bump.
    They learn that with the least pressure they have to flow away from it or a much harsher command will follow.
    This makes a light horse. To most peoples way of thinking they would just apply slightly more pressure hoping the horse responds faster. And if that doesn't get the desired response you then apply a little spur pressure etc etc. That doesn't work. A slight pressure followed by a much harsher bang with the spur gets the horse responding right from the beginning with the slight pressure.
    That is how to keep a horse light. Suttle signals that are followed by much harsher ones keeps the horse responding at the first light signal.

    This is not being cruel.. Around my horses I am soft spoken, pet names, lots of treats, no yelling BUT from the get go they learn how I expect things to be done and they quickly conform to this set behaviour.. Ground tie they stay put, bushing, no pawing, no moving around. Pick feet they offer the foot as I reach for it etc etc.
    When I start a new unbroke bratt I have a expectation of what the finished horse will be like and I expect/work to that end from the get go. No other behaviour is tolerated. Good behavior is rewarded with kind pets and ever abundent treats.
         
        07-31-2009, 01:00 PM
      #27
    Weanling
    The rearing is not your concern. This thread is not about rearing, it's about slowing down.

    Let me just make this perfectly clear to you. I DO NOT have a bad horse and he is NOT a PROBLEM!!! He's YOUNG and needs TRAINING! He got almost none at the ranch he was at before I bought him. They told the people to kick to go and pull back until he stops. I trained him to rear on command, and guess what!? He rears ON COMMAND! All you did, was read what I wrote which was only about a problem I had, then looked at my picture and judged. You don't know anything about his personality, how smart he is, how willing, how forgiving and now you're calling him a bad horse and a problem. That's like saying, "Oh, your horse weaves, that's a problem, it's a bad horse."

    Now that that's over . . . Thanks everyone for the advice, I'm going to see him right now and we'll see how it works out.
         
        07-31-2009, 02:22 PM
      #28
    Weanling
    Spirit, I must have misunderstood your 1st post. I thought that he was taking off with you. If you just want to slow down the canter, why don't you try some half haults with your reins. It's just a little twist of the wrist, and it helps them to understand to slow, usually. Hope you have/had some fun with him today!
         
        07-31-2009, 03:02 PM
      #29
    Banned
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by SpiritJordanRivers    
    The rearing is not your concern. This thread is not about rearing, it's about slowing down.

    .
    Your right and I am sorry. I should learn to keep my mouth shut.
    You obviously have a great horse there and don't need my advice.
    Good luck with him
         
        07-31-2009, 03:26 PM
      #30
    Foal
    My horse is the smae, but holding him back will only teach him to be stronger, like his previous owners did!! When he goes I find the only way I can slow him is to play with his bit so he doesn't know which hand I am holding him on. So while I am pulling with a large amount of pressure I have to squeeze with each hand randomly. So 2 squeezes down one rein, one down the other, 1 down the first rein then one down the other, then 2 again and so on. Just so he can't lean on me anymore and figures he has to slow up! It does take a minute or so sometimes but it is the only way that works for him
         

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