My horse still bucks when I use spurs even after lots of groundwork - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 16 Old 04-11-2013, 09:43 AM
Join Date: Feb 2012
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I'd suggest when she starts to buck pull in one rein. Thats what my natural Horsemanship trainer tells me. As soon as I feel a buck coming on. Shut down the hind quarters. Also make sure you do groundwork EVERYTIME before you ride, and walk and trot her a lot. You have to make sure she is in her "thinking" mind frame before you can ride. Determine if she looks safe to ride. Also if YOU feel unsafe on her, you could be communicating that to her, and may need a trainer to help build your horse and your confidence back up :) I had the same problems with bucking before I started with a trainer. He told me it was a lot of my confidence and how I was sitting in the saddle that made her do what she does. Ever since I havent had one buck

All I pay my Psychiatrist is the cost of feed and hay and she'll listen to me any day <3
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post #12 of 16 Old 04-11-2013, 10:13 AM
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If she IS trained well she shouldn't need spurs to get moving. Spurs as others have said are for refining cues, to be used as an extension of your foot/leg. Obviously there are misconceptions and people rake their horses sides to get them moving, to get them to behave and so forth. That indicates holes in training to me.

Sounds to me like a few things -- One, I think she could be off balance / in pain. It could hurt to pick up that opposite lead, saddle fit, pinching, leg pain, etc..especially with the tail swishing. Two, it could be disrespect and holes in training, kicking her with spurs if she's being disrespectful and agitated already isn't going to help. It's going to make her worse, and could be the reason she's started bucking. Always try to ride out the buck if you can, otherwise she'll have your number. One rein stop, get that head around so she can't. IF she puts her head down fast and to the ground she's most likely going to buck, little warning signs can save you in the end.

I'd take a few elements out and build back up to find where the problem is. Groundwork, lots of lunging watch her closely and see if you can pick up on any visual signs of pain. When you get back in the saddle take off the spurs, do the same excercises you're doing, maybe try some trot poles, or other work to help her pick up that lead. Try a crop and see if she gives the same response. Could be a number of things, but like always rule out PAIN first.

"Every person you will meet will have at least one great quality. Duplicate it and leave the rest." --Clinton Anderson

Last edited by Annanoel; 04-11-2013 at 10:16 AM.
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post #13 of 16 Old 04-11-2013, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sunflower15 View Post
Also about her leads, on the ground she will take the left lead right away. When going to the right, at first she takes the left lead but then once I work with her she will switch to the right lead in the front but still has the left in the back. I have heard this is because she doesnt have enough impulsion, but she is on a long line. Also going to the left she isnt that cranky and doesnt put her ears back, but going to the right when i ask for the lope she does and gets really cranky.

Any tips or comments??? I just don't know where to go from here in her training as of now.

As others have said - first rule out pain. If that means having a vet check, do it. Otherwise, no other amount of work you do is going to really help her. Rule out pain, saddle fit issues, etc. before anything else.

Some horses are just really weak going in one direction, so you need to help her build strength and balance in that "bad" direction as well.

Remember that SPEED and IMPULSION are not the same thing.

I have seen a lot of "fast" horses that are heavy on the forehand and their rear legs are more of an afterthought. They don't balance themselves or use their hindquarters. . .and having all their weight on the forehand really frees up the hindquarters to buck.

I really don't like the idea of making the horse stop when it misbehaves. It doesn't need to stop, it needs to find something more productive to do with its hindquarters besides bucking. It needs to learn how to move more forward. Not FAST, but balanced. If the hindquarters are engaged in moving the body forward, they can't be going up in the air.

But. . .again, rule out pain.

"Parelli horsemanship is just like painting by the numbers. You need absolutely no skill. You just put this color here and this color there, and when you're done, you have ... a mess no one wants." mp
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post #14 of 16 Old 04-21-2013, 09:28 PM
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the spurs may hurt the horse on that side, if the horse doesnt respond to u with spurs the horse doesnt respect you when u tell the horse what to do, u shouldnt need spurs if this horse respects u enough to trust you, constant nagging with the spurs could also be getting on the horses nerve and could be hurting him when constantly spuring him to listen to you
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post #15 of 16 Old 04-23-2013, 07:44 PM
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There is a misconception that the knob spurs are more humane than a spur with a rowel. This is just not so. The rowel will roll on the horse's side, diffusing some of the energy. The knob spurs have been known to crack a rib.
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post #16 of 16 Old 04-23-2013, 07:59 PM
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Once you get her loose in the poll and can do it from the saddle, begin walking her in about a 10' circle so she's bent then about halfway, switch direction. Do this over and over for about 10 minutes. At first the inside rein with be somewhat tight to keep the small circle but as she relaxes give her a little more rein and allow the circles to get a little larger, no more than 15' and continue with the half circles. The circles keep her bent. When the 15' circles are going ok, ask her for a trot by squeezing the outside calf muscle once. If no response, squeeze again and kiss. Spend another 10 minutes doing half circles at the trot. Now, ask for the canter but complete the circle. The moment you feel she's going to buck bring that inside rein back and go back down to the smaller half circling. If you need a breather do them at the walk. Be prepared to take as long as it takes. You don't need to do as many half circles this time then do a few at the trot then canter again. You've made her work fairly hard and she'd love a rest. Each time you pull her down to a small circle when she's threatening to buck she's figuring out that that behaviour is resulting in more hard work. When she will canter a few larger circles for you, pick up the inside rein just enough to bring her down to the walk. Ride her quietly on a loose rein to let her cool down then put her away. That is her reward for doing as you wanted.
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buck , loping , problems , quarter horse , spurs

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