Need opinions from people who use Clinton Anderson's methods for training! - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 22 Old 09-21-2011, 10:16 PM
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I, too , need a mounting block. Just do.
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post #12 of 22 Old 09-21-2011, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamcatcher Arabians View Post
***I don't specifically use CA's methods or Parelli's or Lyon's but I use a little mix of all of them, whatever seems to work in that instant with that horse. Staying relaxed and communicating that things are no big deal with my body language is a major tool in the tool box.****
Absolutely, agree!!
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post #13 of 22 Old 09-21-2011, 10:57 PM
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If you are going to bend his neck when you get on, you need to do it toward you, so if he does go to move, his hip is AWAY from you, rather than into, and over you.

For teaching him to stand at the mounting block, use the sending exercises to your advantage. Do whatever ground work you are going to before wanting to work on mounting, and then take him to where your block is: I would set it fairly close to a fence, so you can 'squeeze' him between it and the block, via sending exercises. Do that over and over til he is relaxed, then start asking him to stop next to the first that is all you will do; have him stop for a second near it, give him a pat, before sending him off again. (make sure to stop him near the block on both sides, so you train both sides of his brain). When he is comfortable doing that, start asking him to stand there for a little longer, while rubbing him all over; at this point, start stepping up onto the block when you stop him. Send him off again. When he is comfortable with that phase, start having him stand next to the block while you flap the stirrups, pull on stirrups, tap on saddle, etc. Send him away again. Now when he comes to a halt next to the block, do your flapping, slapping of saddle, etc, and then put some weight into stirrup before sending him away again. And so on and so forth, until he is calm and relaxed with whatever you are doing near or on the mounting block, including getting on and off. Approach/retreat, sending, etc... The horse could catch on in a matter of 15 minutes of doing this, or he may need several sessions to get totally comfortable with the process...take it at the pace you feel he needs, in order to 'get it' fully.
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"The ideal horseman has the courage of a lion, the patience of a saint, and the hands of a woman..."
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post #14 of 22 Old 09-21-2011, 11:01 PM
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I also, follow SOME things about CA, but like so many others have stated... it's all about the horse. Some methods do not work with the horse, while some work completely. There is no puzzle piece that fits with the other puzzle piece perfectly, so you kind of have to mold it in to the original puzzle piece to make it work, if that makes any sense.

If a horse moves away from the stimulus, I don't necessarily believe that it teaches them to 'run away.' Like I stated before... horses move to think. The more they move, the more they think, and the more they think, the better they calm down. With Tana, I'm working on getting her to calm down quicker than a half hour simply because I work with her constantly till she is calm in the arena.

It's all about press and release. You give pressure, but the moment they show signs of relaxing, you take it away, and give praise. If the horse licks their lips, or sighs, it shows that they comprehend what you're doing. It may take some time for them to get it, but it's worth it.

Just breathe deep, remain calm and relax. : 3
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post #15 of 22 Old 09-21-2011, 11:14 PM
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I don't use a mounting block to get on, but I wanted my horses to stand quietly next to one so that my mother or my kids could use it. I never made it a big deal. I just made it the place they could rest. Now, they look for it, knowing they get a breather.
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post #16 of 22 Old 09-22-2011, 11:58 AM
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Instead of a mounting block I use a big 6' long heavy duty solid wood coffee table. It's big enough to walk around on and I can stand on it to do lunging or sending exercises. I bring the horse up beside the table to rest during exercises. Then I do the "human currycomb" method (without tack) and while they stand they get rubbed all over their body. If they should move away they are lunged around more, then allowed to rest next to the table, and I continue rubbing. When they stand for the full body rubbing you can start leaning over the horse and putting some weight on their back while you rub. Once again, if they move away - they get lunged around. If you are laying over their back and they take off, just slide off, get back on the table and continue until they stand still. When you can lay over their back, slide your legs over their rump (both legs together) so that your head is up by the withers and your legs up on top of the rump. Keep your legs together and don't try to straddle the horse yet - it's easier to slide off this way. Practice sliding on and off the horse from both sides, move around a lot, rub the horse, etc. Once they allow all this calmly without moving you can add your tack and go through the steps again. This method has worked well for me to get a horse to stand quietly for mounting.
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post #17 of 22 Old 09-22-2011, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Great advice everyone! Thanks! Keep it coming if you have something to say! :)
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post #18 of 22 Old 10-05-2011, 05:42 PM
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My mare had an issue with mounting, she wouldn't go near the mounting block, then she wouldn't stand near it and if I did manage to get on she would tank off.
I started by giving her a small amount of feed in a bucket next to it, then walking her near it gradually getting closer, then asking her to stand for a few moments next to it then putting it beside her and doing all my grooming from it. I used to lay over her back to brush her sides etc.
I just gradually got her more and more used to it, when she was happy to have it moved all around her and me to stomp on it I started standing her beside it tacked up, as she had been used to standing and being groomed from it she didn't bother about it much and after a while would stand for quite a while with me laying over her maybe just a foot in the stirrup etc. and when I did get on maybe because she was no longer frightened of it she didn't move at all for a few seconds, when she did start to amble off it was really easy to get her to stand. It's obviously still a work in progress as she did move off without being asked but only very slowly and only a few paces.

Good luck
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post #19 of 22 Old 10-06-2011, 03:29 PM
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I agree with the previous posts. Here's something that is more breed specific. Can you train this horse to park out next to the mounting block? When I was having training difficulties with my KMHSA gelding, my Amish farrier/trainer parked him out. (He grabbed the chestnuts on his front legs and pulled them forward one at a time, btw.) My gelding stood much better. Also, since you're dealing with a customer, use a common sales approach--promise less than you know you can deliver and give a delivery date that is further out. It's going to take some REAL time to turn this horse around, so if you care about the horse, give him the time.
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post #20 of 22 Old 10-06-2011, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what I have been doing with him-

I stand on the mounting block and have been teaching him to "step up" just one foot at a time. This is the one and only time I want the horse to be very close to me. If he swings his hindquarters out so he's not parellel to the block, I use agressive body language and the lunge whip (mainly just spanking the ground) to make him yield his hindquarters back over...then I repeat the process of asking him to step up. So far it has been working well. Whenever he does step up without swing his hindquarters, he just gets rubbed and praised. I make a really big deal when he does what I want..

"Make the right thing easy and the wrong thing hard"

The message I am trying to send to this horse is that when he stands nice and relaxed at the block, he gets to rest...otherwise he has to move and work...

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