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I May Sound Crazy..

7K views 62 replies 9 participants last post by  jaydee 
#1 ·
I have 13 days to prepare for an eventing derby. I haven't practiced seriously in MONTHS. But it is cheap, and I see it as practice. I think I'm entering novice. Last year I competed in pre-beginner, but I want a challenge this year. I could do beginner novice, but it has the same dressage test I did last year for pre-beginner, and I want to try a new test, so I can challenge me and my horse.

The XC and Show jumping course is combined, and is 2'11. My horse had a problem of rushing jumps, but I would really like to work on half halting him before the jump, and getting him to jump calmly on an actually course, with distractions.

Questions:
1. If I do Novice, could I still do beginner novice at recognized shows, or actual 3 day events? I read somewhere you can still compete a level down from what you have shown.
2. If you have the capabilities to watch a youtube video, please watch my eventing derby from last year under HesUltimatelyFine. I'm mostly concerned about the dressage test, so could you point out what was wrong, and how to correct it? (I will probably post it under the riding critique section if you want to comment there)
3. My horse has a terrible time getting his left lead. If I canter to trot to canter him, and keep doing that to have him get it, he usually speeds up and loses his "partnership" with me. Would it be better to just chance his lead the first time, and lose the points of one movement, than to have a chance of ruining the rest of the test?
4. Any other advice?
 
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#3 ·
Sorry but I'm not understanding this post
You cant do a dressage test on a horse that wont perform happily in a bit
You cant do a lead change unless the horse is on the bit and understands collection - though at that level you wouldn't be doing a flying change anyway
The organisers would usually state which test they want you to use so you need to request details- maybe its different in the US
You cant use a 'half halt' technique to check your horse as it approaches the fence if its not collected and on the bit as the idea is to shorten the stide without losing energy and impulsion
2ft11 may not sound very high in terms of a showjumping fence that will easily fall if you hit it but a solid fence wont give like that.
Unless you're horse is pretty fit you could be heading for a fall - 13 days isn't enough time to get to that level of fitness if you've not been working him consistently
 
#4 ·
Starter to Novice is a HUGE jump. Not only are the fences higher, but the courses are more technical and you need to be in complete control of your horse's stride to adjust to the distances.

I watched the video, and I don't think your dressage is up to Novice standards yet. Your horse is bent at the third vertebrae in parts of the test, and he doesn't bend throughout his body--in fact, he's counterbending throughout much of it. When you asked for the left lead canter, he rushed and was unbalanced through the transition, causing him to counterbend and pick up the right lead.

I would stick with Pre-BN or BN.
 
#5 ·
One of the big problems with the left lead in the video is because of the 6" deep mud where the transition was. I'm not really concerned about the length of the course since it is short, and doesn't have many techniqual parts. I've jumped up to 4ft with him, so height shouldn't matter. I'll probably end up doing beginner novice.

I'm specifically looking for advice on how to improve him.
 
#7 ·
Last year he didn't have extensive conditioning either. I am entering this show as schooling. I decided on beginner novice, and most likely will trot the course, maybe canter, definitely no galloping. If my horse can't finish the course safely, I will stop and disqualify myself. It is the same price as schooling. I don't see why I wouldn't do it.


I posted this thread, purely for advice, not for discouragement against pushing for improvement.
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#10 ·
Questions:
1. If I do Novice, could I still do beginner novice at recognized shows, or actual 3 day events? I read somewhere you can still compete a level down from what you have shown.

This is not quite true. Firstly, it doesn't apply to schooling shows. Secondly, you can always compete in the open divisions.

2. If you have the capabilities to watch a youtube video, please watch my eventing derby from last year under HesUltimatelyFine. I'm mostly concerned about the dressage test, so could you point out what was wrong, and how to correct it? (I will probably post it under the riding critique section if you want to comment there)

There is a lot going on here which I will address in a bit.

3. My horse has a terrible time getting his left lead. If I canter to trot to canter him, and keep doing that to have him get it, he usually speeds up and loses his "partnership" with me. Would it be better to just chance his lead the first time, and lose the points of one movement, than to have a chance of ruining the rest of the test?

Theoretically, yes, but this is a major red flag.

4. Any other advice?
Yes. Stick with your bump down to BN. You are not ready for Novice. See below.

Starter to Novice is a HUGE jump. Not only are the fences higher, but the courses are more technical and you need to be in complete control of your horse's stride to adjust to the distances.

I watched the video, and I don't think your dressage is up to Novice standards yet. Your horse is bent at the third vertebrae in parts of the test, and he doesn't bend throughout his body--in fact, he's counterbending throughout much of it. When you asked for the left lead canter, he rushed and was unbalanced through the transition, causing him to counterbend and pick up the right lead.

I would stick with Pre-BN or BN.
Agree.

One of the big problems with the left lead in the video is because of the 6" deep mud where the transition was. I'm not really concerned about the length of the course since it is short, and doesn't have many techniqual parts. I've jumped up to 4ft with him, so height shouldn't matter. I'll probably end up doing beginner novice.

I'm specifically looking for advice on how to improve him.
First of all, don't make excuses. You have already stated this is a problem area, and now it's the mud? No. It's a problem area. No big deal--it's not like it's a massive disaster, just something you're working on. Accept that, don't make excuses for it, and you will improve.

As for the 4', if you were confidently and correctly jumping 4' you wouldn't be asking these questions. Having cleared 4' does not make one ready for any specific level.

You are fine at Pre BN or probably BN on this horse. You have a lot of good things in your riding, and you have a cute horse that looks to be the sort to teach you a lot and give you quality miles. You treat the horse well, and are looking to learn. Don't overdo it and wreck your horse's or your own confidence.

Last year he didn't have extensive conditioning either. I am entering this show as schooling. I decided on beginner novice, and most likely will trot the course, maybe canter, definitely no galloping. If my horse can't finish the course safely, I will stop and disqualify myself. It is the same price as schooling. I don't see why I wouldn't do it.

I posted this thread, purely for advice, not for discouragement against pushing for improvement.
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Good choices. BN should be cantering the course in theory, but if you are not ready then trot. The fact that you are thinking this is a sign that you were not ready for N. Certainly pay attention to his conditioning. Has he been ridden at all lately? If not I would scratch. You shouldn't jump AT ALL if the horse hasn't been under saddle.

Go & do what you can, attendance needs to high at all events. Keeps shows going.
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NO NO NO NO NO. Yes, events need to be well attended, but first and foremost they need to be safe and fun for all involved.

So in eventing, going to events, no matter what the result, is good in the end? I want to enter a larger one in August, and this will only be my second event
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No. Go when you think you're ready. Sure, sometimes you are a bit off in your assessment and must choose to scratch or retire. Sure, sometimes you have a bad day or the horse is off or whatnot and you need to scratch or retire, even though you are ready. These should be RARE occurrences.



Okay, now to your riding. The biggest issue is that you are not using your leg. I noticed it in the first few moments of the vid. Your lower leg is not against the horse and doesn't DO anything. You can see this clearly at about 5:40. You are also in a slight chair seat. Your seat is good and quiet, but you aren't using it.

First, remember that the contact should be evenly distributed across the inside of your leg. Your lower leg needs to be ON the horse so that it CAN do something. Only then can it actually ask the horse to lift his back and step under himself and push forward. You need to get that sorted. In order to get your leg in the proper position, try a few exercises. First, try doing some two point. Notice how your leg slips back? That's where it should be all the time. Then try standing straight up with your crot.ch over the pommel as the horse walks and trots. You will need soft knees and serious leg strength to do it for any length. Again you will notice your lower leg sliding back. It is where it should be. Begin posting, keeping your lower leg back. And finally, the hardest but most effective of these exercises (do the others first!) is to do the alternating posting. Sit, stand, stand, sit, stand, stand. You are effectively switching diagonals by standing (not sitting) an extra beat. Then you switch right back the very next stride. It's tougher than it sounds! Once your leg is in place, THEN you can begin to learn to use it properly!

You will also notice how much core you use. Your posture is already good, but you will find as you use your core more, it will become even better. Your core is your support to steady your upper torso and to help you follow your horse's motion. You will use your seat more effectively once your core is strong.

In the meantime, the other big things to work on include geometry, left lead, overall balance, and bend.

You can always, always be accurate. You are not going fully to the rail, not going into your corners, not precise in your locations and shapes--these are easy fixes. The next is the bend. You want the horse's ribs bent around your inside leg and his topline to follow the shape of your track. So if you are on a circle you want the horse's spine to be lightly and evenly curved to the arc of the circle. This means you should barely be able to see the corner of the inside eye, but it also means the horse's ribs are to the outside. Remember that the head should be in line with the shoulders! This helps the horse balance, and it is a major reason for the struggles with the left lead.

Again, you have a solid seat and good posture, but your hands are a tad unsteady (very evident at the 4:00 mark). As your seat becomes more independent and your base and core stronger, this will take care of itself. However, you need to work on how to approach a fence. You tend to ride the horse's front end and not the back. This is evident at 4:13 when you start to jump, but the horse's back end isn't ready to do so. You don't have leg on and the horse is not pushing from behind. The front end has to stutter step and get in close to the fence to allow the hind end to catch up. This means you are ahead of the horse's motion and up over the fence before he leaves the ground--a serious fault because if the horse stops or stumbles, you are on the ground. Plus you make his job harder because instead of just hanging with him, you now make him push you up out of his way. You can get away with it over these teeny fences at the trot on an honest horse, but my mare would have you on your hiney faster than you can say Bob's your uncle. She taught me to correct this particular fault!

Putting your leg on will also allow you to keep your horse straighter. At about 4:30 or so he's a little wiggle worm--butt sliding left and right. Legs on pushing the horse straight forward and up into a soft, steady hand (and while unsteady, your hand is relatively soft) is the goal. In the meantime at least sending the horse forward and keeping his butt straight will help. He's honest and you do a good job keeping him from taking advantage of the wiggling, but best to nip it in the bud and just ride him straight, straight, straight. You already keep him from popping his shoulder out and tend to keep his nose forward. Now just straighten the bum! This will help your dressage--remember that bending issue? The two are related. Put your legs on, and you can start to control the horse's bum and body position, which will help your straightness, bend, and balance (and your geometry), which in turn will help your left lead. Legs on will help keep you from jumping ahead, keep your hands steady, and keep the horse moving forward and up. Are you sensing a pattern yet? ;)


If your horse has been in some work, jumping a bit, and feeling good, go for the BN. If the horse hasn't been in work, don't jump until you have built up fitness slowly over time.

Good luck and have fun!
 
#11 ·
Yes. Stick with your bump down to BN. You are not ready for Novice. See below.



Agree.



First of all, don't make excuses. You have already stated this is a problem area, and now it's the mud? No. It's a problem area. No big deal--it's not like it's a massive disaster, just something you're working on. Accept that, don't make excuses for it, and you will improve.

As for the 4', if you were confidently and correctly jumping 4' you wouldn't be asking these questions. Having cleared 4' does not make one ready for any specific level.

You are fine at Pre BN or probably BN on this horse. You have a lot of good things in your riding, and you have a cute horse that looks to be the sort to teach you a lot and give you quality miles. You treat the horse well, and are looking to learn. Don't overdo it and wreck your horse's or your own confidence.



Good choices. BN should be cantering the course in theory, but if you are not ready then trot. The fact that you are thinking this is a sign that you were not ready for N. Certainly pay attention to his conditioning. Has he been ridden at all lately? If not I would scratch. You shouldn't jump AT ALL if the horse hasn't been under saddle.



NO NO NO NO NO. Yes, events need to be well attended, but first and foremost they need to be safe and fun for all involved.



No. Go when you think you're ready. Sure, sometimes you are a bit off in your assessment and must choose to scratch or retire. Sure, sometimes you have a bad day or the horse is off or whatnot and you need to scratch or retire, even though you are ready. These should be RARE occurrences.



Okay, now to your riding. The biggest issue is that you are not using your leg. I noticed it in the first few moments of the vid. Your lower leg is not against the horse and doesn't DO anything. You can see this clearly at about 5:40. You are also in a slight chair seat. Your seat is good and quiet, but you aren't using it.

First, remember that the contact should be evenly distributed across the inside of your leg. Your lower leg needs to be ON the horse so that it CAN do something. Only then can it actually ask the horse to lift his back and step under himself and push forward. You need to get that sorted. In order to get your leg in the proper position, try a few exercises. First, try doing some two point. Notice how your leg slips back? That's where it should be all the time. Then try standing straight up with your crot.ch over the pommel as the horse walks and trots. You will need soft knees and serious leg strength to do it for any length. Again you will notice your lower leg sliding back. It is where it should be. Begin posting, keeping your lower leg back. And finally, the hardest but most effective of these exercises (do the others first!) is to do the alternating posting. Sit, stand, stand, sit, stand, stand. You are effectively switching diagonals by standing (not sitting) an extra beat. Then you switch right back the very next stride. It's tougher than it sounds! Once your leg is in place, THEN you can begin to learn to use it properly!

You will also notice how much core you use. Your posture is already good, but you will find as you use your core more, it will become even better. Your core is your support to steady your upper torso and to help you follow your horse's motion. You will use your seat more effectively once your core is strong.

In the meantime, the other big things to work on include geometry, left lead, overall balance, and bend.

You can always, always be accurate. You are not going fully to the rail, not going into your corners, not precise in your locations and shapes--these are easy fixes. The next is the bend. You want the horse's ribs bent around your inside leg and his topline to follow the shape of your track. So if you are on a circle you want the horse's spine to be lightly and evenly curved to the arc of the circle. This means you should barely be able to see the corner of the inside eye, but it also means the horse's ribs are to the outside. Remember that the head should be in line with the shoulders! This helps the horse balance, and it is a major reason for the struggles with the left lead.

Again, you have a solid seat and good posture, but your hands are a tad unsteady (very evident at the 4:00 mark). As your seat becomes more independent and your base and core stronger, this will take care of itself. However, you need to work on how to approach a fence. You tend to ride the horse's front end and not the back. This is evident at 4:13 when you start to jump, but the horse's back end isn't ready to do so. You don't have leg on and the horse is not pushing from behind. The front end has to stutter step and get in close to the fence to allow the hind end to catch up. This means you are ahead of the horse's motion and up over the fence before he leaves the ground--a serious fault because if the horse stops or stumbles, you are on the ground. Plus you make his job harder because instead of just hanging with him, you now make him push you up out of his way. You can get away with it over these teeny fences at the trot on an honest horse, but my mare would have you on your hiney faster than you can say Bob's your uncle. She taught me to correct this particular fault!

Putting your leg on will also allow you to keep your horse straighter. At about 4:30 or so he's a little wiggle worm--butt sliding left and right. Legs on pushing the horse straight forward and up into a soft, steady hand (and while unsteady, your hand is relatively soft) is the goal. In the meantime at least sending the horse forward and keeping his butt straight will help. He's honest and you do a good job keeping him from taking advantage of the wiggling, but best to nip it in the bud and just ride him straight, straight, straight. You already keep him from popping his shoulder out and tend to keep his nose forward. Now just straighten the bum! This will help your dressage--remember that bending issue? The two are related. Put your legs on, and you can start to control the horse's bum and body position, which will help your straightness, bend, and balance (and your geometry), which in turn will help your left lead. Legs on will help keep you from jumping ahead, keep your hands steady, and keep the horse moving forward and up. Are you sensing a pattern yet? ;)


If your horse has been in some work, jumping a bit, and feeling good, go for the BN. If the horse hasn't been in work, don't jump until you have built up fitness slowly over time.

Good luck and have fun!
This is BY FAR the BEST help I have ever received! Thank you so so so much for taking the time to put all this down for me!

I just finished riding, and I actually did a few of those changes, even though I didn't know that they were what I was lacking XD
I really worked on going down the diagonals today, and having him stretch downward and relax. I noticed he does the wiggly worm thing when I try to go in a straight line, so I squeezed my legs on him, and he straightened out quite a bit! (nowhere near perfect, but it's progress). I worked on sitting up straight, and further back so I wasn't leaning so forward. I added in my hips moving with his movement, and my hands too, and it felt SO nice. As soon as I did this at the "free walk" (or what I call it is at the time) he stretched down, and just relaxed. I am FINALLY unlocking these problems I was having.

I am definitely going to try the alternate posting thing, even though it sounds killer hard, since my brain can't even wrap around it. HA HA. I have tried doing only one change of diagonal while standing, and it failed miserably. I'm sure it will definitely help. Also, my chair seat, I noticed I start to have it. My trainer never really mentioned it, but I think I should've known since I had shown equitation for 3 years previous. I am working on my eq. now, and starting to get my original strength back. Also with me getting ahead of my horse while jumping, just since you noticed it in that video, I will be posting a video from me jumping 3'3-3'6 in a show where it got in the way TREMENDOUSLY. I feel like a complete idiot for not noticing it while jumping only 2ft. It definitely became noticeable a month later in the other show.. ha.. ha..

I will be showing BN in 2 weeks. I just decided not to rush it, even though I would love to begin to go up levels, but I realized I am definitely not ready. About a week and a half ago I was jumping my horse over around a 2'3 jump a few times a ride, so I think he will be able to handle the jumping. I'm dragging a jump out into the arena or field to practice on. (including the approaches so I can stop wiggle worming up to them).

And again, thank you SO much for such a response. I feel like the clouds just parted and revealed my problems so much sooner than I probably would've noticed on my own. I will probably have a video up after the show, and I will link it in here. I really hope there will be improvements. If not for your help, I would probably be struggling even more so than I was before. Thank you.
 
#12 ·
Did I say "Go hellbent for leather"? No, I said, "Do what you can". OP knows what her & her horse can do, stick to what you know, now is not the time to be moving up in divisions. Essentially the same thing you posted, I just typed less explanation, on the iPod, more difficult than my keyboard, lol.
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#14 ·
If you check on her last thread this horse has been ridden bareback and bridles for some time because he wasn't happy with his tack - or she felt better connected to him like that - I lost track of which at some point
Even an unfit horse can caught up in the excitement of things and keep going - then the next day you find you've got sprained tendons
 
#15 ·
I didn't check the previous threads, but my original point was that one should not have the attitude to just "go and do what one can." That is asking for trouble on so many levels and is a terrible waste of time, money, and training.

Waresbear, remember that every time we ride the horse, we are training him. So taking him to somewhere overwhelming and overfacing him is bad, even if we do retire or scratch. That's also how people get hurt--just one more jump, it's not so bad, if we can just make it to X, oh he's fine, etc. As jaydee said, horses (and people) get caught up in the adrenaline of the moment. That's why, even in a fit horse, the attitude is dangerous.

Then of course there is the fitness thing; I don't know if you knew where the horse was in that regard, but it was not posted on this thread and certainly the OP made it sound like fitness was an issue.
 
#16 ·
Kylie I hope you can see the difference between people giving you common sense advice and people trying to put you off - there is a difference.
I'm all for encouraging people to get involved but rushing in 'just because' can be foolish.
I competed in One Day events for many years so I've seen just how quickly & badly it can go wrong even on a fit experienced horse so not worth taking risks for the sake of it
You have a nice willing horse and it would be a shame to destroy her boldness by asking too much
Have you thought about maybe competing in straight showjumping classes or straight dressage for a while until you have her comfortable in a bridle again?
 
#18 ·
I just got done riding for today, and man did he do good. I was away for 10 days on vacation, and previous to that I wasn't doing much dressage work. Today I set up a jump and worked him over that a few times to improve his rushing towards the jumps, and improve my early departure. He is getting straighter and more accepting of my legs having contact all the time. I did the posting exercise that Thames said, where you stand for 2 beats and sit 1.. Boy was I sore after, but it definitely helped my position!

Toofine even gave me a little surprise today.. I started to trot a circle and asked him for his left lead.. Even though the departure was a little rough, he picked it right up! Yesterday I tried to put his hindquarters in and then ask for it, but that created a big fight between me and him, so I guess asking in a circle works better until he gets it.

My plan is to keep working over jumps, and Wednesday I am deciding if I will be doing pre-beginner or beginner novice. Today I jumped a couple inches under the 2'7 he should be jumping, and he was consistently good. I am figuring out a good training schedule to put him on to get him ready for the show.. I'm thinking that I will be lunging him on his bad lead (doing canter to trot to canter transitions) before I ride in the morning, and then do some dressage. In the afternoon I will get him back out and either hack him or do jumping.

Jaydee, I am planning on doing some show jumping shows and dressage shows soon. I know I won't place in the show jumping, since they are all hunter jumper around here, and my horse doesn't really fit the typical hunter jumper style (with his movement and such). Last year I had a couple dressage shows planned, but then I joined Highschool equestrian, and those shows overlapped the 2 dressage shows I was going to do. I am still deciding if I will be doing Highschool equestrian this year or not. :P Blah decisions.

I'll keep you all posted on our progress up and to the show. I am really sore today from Thames' exercises, and then riding a bucking 4 year old this morning.. I swear, I was gonna bring him on a little trail ride, and he decided to buck TERRIBLY in the first 5 minutes of our ride.. Oh horses..

So here is a question! I am on the fence whether or not to go spend the holiday weekend with my friend, and miss 4 days of practicing.. If you were in my shoes, would you forget about the holiday weekend and just stay home and practice, or go?
 
#19 ·
You want to succeed?
Then dedication, dedication, dedication!!! Forget the weekend away
Your horse needs regular consistent work. look up interval training. I saw a good Youtube video recently done by an aussie couple that was very good so I'll try to find it and post the link
We don't do hunter jumper in the UK so it means nothing to me - I have seen it over here and honestly not my sort of thing at all - but no disrespect to those who do it.
 
#20 ·
I tried finding an actual show jumping circuit, and it is impossible. I used to go to a Hunter jumper barn, and it helped ruin my horses jumping. They claimed his rushing was because he was a smart enough jumper to pick where he wants to take off and succeed.. They told me for a few months to stay out of his way and jump.. All he does is mindlessly run and jump now. Ugh. At one point they had me jumping on loose reins, where my horse could speed up or slow down whenever he wanted.. It all turned worse and worse. I'm so glad my old eventing trainer told me this all was the wrong way to train a jumper, and actually taught me how to have a ride that is completely in control.

I am pretty sure I am skipping this weekend. There will be plenty more weekends to have fun, and besides, riding is fun.
 
#21 ·
It sounds as if that was when your problems started - your horse got the idea she could run along at her own speed, you'd have no collection so no way to produce useful energy that you could hold and release
Here are a couple of Youtube channels that you can find some interesting info on.
If she's rushing her fences you might find that going back to grid work will help - try working towards a line of bounce fences - only 2ft max where every other fence is actually a ground pole - makes the horses think about what they're doing. Also lots of twists and turns - avoid jumping single fences over and over again
This one is EventionTv, they have 43 videos at present
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tS6j-SfQ4FA
This one is from British Showjumping, they have 208 videos, a mix of instructional stuff and basic interest things like clips from competitions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1-cIIji-fE&feature=c4-overview&playnext=1&list=TLL3KCaKPhIPM
 
#23 ·
I will definitely check those videos out! Right now when he rushes fences, I either turn him off of the jump's path, and make him do a few controlled circles, and then try it again. I have also just stopped him right before the jump, and then tried it again.

It's weird though, he didn't rush the jumps when I was bareback and bridleless, there might be something I'm doing.
 
#24 ·
People have different views on your first comments - so these are just mine circling works OK provided you do it far enough away from the fence so as not to create a pattern of 'running out' - Stopping a horse right in front of the fence is to me a bad idea as its going to encourage refusals at some point
Never just face your horse at a jump and then go for it - always bring her round in a circle from somewhere and get her settled in a situation where you have jumps set up but don't actually jump them
The bitless/bareback thing takes you to your other thread where we already discussed things like the saddle being uncomfortable or the bit giving pain - maybe your hands are not quite steady enough and she is 'running away' from the pressure
What happens when you jump bareback but with a bit?
What happens when you jump with a saddle but in a bitless sidepull or halter?
I have seen horses and ponies start to rush fences when they get bored with it because they've done too much, they're decent enough to still be willing to jump but just want to get it out of the way with ASAP
 
#25 ·
OP, you absolutely should ask for the canter on a circle. That is why the tests allow you to pick it up in the corner. As for the jumping, remember that jumping to height is not all there is. You should be comfortable jumping TABLES on a downhill slope or whatnot at that height, not just a little vertical in the arena. It sounds like pre-BN is the way to go. The lunging transition work, as long as you don't overdo it and properly warm up the horse, is a great way to get him confident and strong enough to pick up the difficult lead. Don't jump more than 2-3x week (really ever) and just relax as far as fitness. If the horse has been in regular riding wtc with the odd jump he should be fine for pre-BN.

Also, I know Jaydee suggested some jumper and dressage shows--and it's a good idea. Get some miles at both, and go to the h/j shows and just focus on a smooth round. Sure, your horse isn't going to win the 3' A circuit classes, but a smooth, forward, steady ride will place at a schooling show. But just go for fun, for the show miles, etc. However, don't skip the derbies. Certainly don't do them if you are not ready, but for the video you posted as long as the horse is still being ridden regularly you can't go too wrong doing a derby.

However, if you go out for several days, don't go! I am not of the opinion your horse needs interval training at the level you are doing--or even through novice. Once you go Training and up, maybe, or if you are riding something that has trouble getting or staying fit, but for now, don't stress about that. I also am of a different opinion on your weekend away. You aren't looking to go to the Olympics. If you want to go out for a weekend, you aren't somehow not dedicated. Even Olympians go on vacations. However, it is not fair to your horse to do a show straight after a few days off. Find the balance and the timing. Weekends out and shows can both have a place in your life--just not back to back unless it's in reverse order!

You do need a better coach than the hunter trainer you described. While you don't want to pull on a horse before the fences, dropping him is not the solution. He was rushing because he was unsure and unbalanced. It sounds like your current coach has a better clue. However, don't write off all h/j coaches for the future!

I agree on the grid work and such, but ultimately it's a balance issue and a confidence issue. For that reason I don't believe you are going to benefit from just doing grids. Your flatwork and work with your coach is what will solve your problems. I would be leery of turning off or stopping before fences. There is a time and a place for each of those things. Hopefully you are doing them with the supervision of a coach.

While jaydee is right about collecting and bringing the horse to the fence, that's putting the horse before the cart. You FIRST need to put your leg in the correct position, then learn to put it ON the horse. Only then can you use it effectively. Until then don't think about collection. Since collection comes from behind and from your legs, you cannot get it yet. Thinking about collecting now will only make you use your hands and work front to back. Don't worry about collection right now. Focus on getting your leg on and learning to use it.

Keep us posted!
 
#26 ·
Here is today's update!
I just got back in from riding, and man did some of the changes I made help tremendously!

I lunged him like I usually do, just to the left to really strengthen that lead. He was high energy on the line today since it was raining, and being the little "princess" he is, he was overreacting. I swear, he acted like he was going to melt. It was wet, sloppy ground today so he really watched where he put his feet, and how he did his transitions.

After, I decided to ride him in this hackamore:

He was a tad strong in it, but his jumping was a ton better. He was a lot more sensitive to me reining him back to slow him down before the jump, which helped a ton. I think my problem with jumping is when he jumps, I would lack a release, and the snaffle would push up into the top of his mouth. Just my guess.
He got his left lead again, so so easily. I feel so much more ready for this show with him getting it now.
 
#27 ·
I think I've been calling him a her - please apologise but he is pretty!!!
We had an OTTB that my husband jumped to quite a high level, he'd been cast out and on his way to the slaughter yard as he was declared 'unstoppable' - which he was but we put him in an English hackamore and he was like a different horse from that day on.
I think it was the Olympic silver medal winning showjumper last year that rides in an English hack as he has brake problems in a bit
 
#28 ·
I think I know what horse you are talking about. My new plan is to stay with the hackamore until I get better with my release and body control, just so his mouth can avoid all of my mistakes. I already didn't like jumping with a bit just because you see all of those riders come off with the reins in their hands still, while the poor horse has their mouth cranked open.. I don't want that to be me at the derby.

So here is a good question. With the hackamore I was using, is it legal to use for XC and showjumping? I am pretty positive it is, but I don't want to get disqualified for it.
 
#30 ·
The link says that gags and hackamores are allowed, so I'm thinking I will be using the hackamore for the xc/show jumping course, and see how that goes! I will probably record a video of me and my horse jumping in the next few days. I was going to today, but it started raining, and became very gloomy. Blah.
 
#31 ·
Do I Smell Another Update?!

Today I lunged Toofine again, for only a short time this time. We got saddled up, and I had him wear his snaffle. We did flat work, emphasizing on the sitting to posting trot, and back again, staying at a consistent speed. We kind of worked on a free walk. Both leads were thrown in there too. Then I tested my theory to see if it was the bit that was the problem while jumping -- it is. He would fling his nose up, and rush the jump (which was a small crossrail) for warm up. Luckily I brought my hackamore out with me, and we switched into that. MAJOR improvement. He was much more willing to slow down in it, and stop. We went through a jump course varying from 2'3 to 3', I think. I was amazed at how different it is jumping him in a hackamore. I can actually adjust his speed in it, and help avoid rushing the jumps. I waited for him to start taking off before I went into a two point, which was different for me, but it felt right. At a point of time in this ride, I could feel the power of his jump. No longer did he just fling himself over, but I felt him really push up and over. It was INCREDIBLE.

Tomorrow he gets a break since I am being forced to participate in a wretched holiday instead of spending time with my horse. Friday I plan to ride twice, once in the morning focusing on dressage and then once in the afternoon focusing on jumping. Saturday or Sunday I am riding down the road with my friend to go over some low xc jumps that a neighbor has. I think next week I will mainly be focusing on practicing the dressage test, and perfecting it as much as possible with one or two jump practices before the show.

Also, I will most likely be going to an Arabian show that has dressage classes in 2 weeks so I can add experience on my horse. Yippee!
 
#32 ·
Glad that you seem to be sorting things out by process of elimination and I think you sound so much more positive about everything.
Now - you will have to use a bit for dressage so the next step might be to try him in maybe some mullen mouth bits - a lot of horses don't like snaffles - even the French link type
 
#33 ·
Don't practice your dressage test! Practice dressage, but not a test! You don't want the horse to learn it. Practice individual movements, the test in reverse, parts of it out of order, etc. You can do one run through thrown in between all the other stuff, but no more than two for the whole week (and even then your horse could learn it).
 
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