Endurance saddle- center fire rigging - Page 2
 
 

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Endurance saddle- center fire rigging

This is a discussion on Endurance saddle- center fire rigging within the Trail Riding forums, part of the Riding Horses category
  • Endurance saddle slides around in back
  • Full rigging center fire

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    02-14-2012, 01:30 PM
  #11
Foal
It does look tight in this picture. His hair is super duper thick (he's a curly horse) and it makes it appear tight. I always make sure that I can fit my fingers in some.

I think it looks too far forward also. This is the problem I've posted about the "cinch placement" before. If I put it farther back, then the cinch is no where near his "armpit". Do you think that for this type of saddle, it's ok to have the cinch placed further back? I've only used typical western saddles and this one has been a bit tricky for me to figure out.
     
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    02-14-2012, 01:35 PM
  #12
Trained
I noticed that the cinch was in what looked right as well.
Either the saddle is too far forward, or he needs a pad to lift the back up. I have one horse that has to have a saddle lifter in the back with an English saddle. I am wishing that some of these endurance experts would look at this thread..........
     
    02-14-2012, 01:41 PM
  #13
Foal
Me too. There are a couple that usually respond to anything about endurance, but I think it didn't help that I posted in the wrong section. :)
     
    02-14-2012, 01:53 PM
  #14
Trained
I just called Circle Y and they said that my saddle does not use a back cinch but is meant to use one cinch. It is exactly like yours as far as rigging, so I guess that is what we need. Here are the instructions.

Circle Y Saddles - Western Saddles, Trail Riding Saddles, Barrel Sadles, Roping Saddles
     
    02-14-2012, 01:56 PM
  #15
Trained
Here it is in case the other didn't work:

     
    02-14-2012, 01:58 PM
  #16
Foal
Thanks!!!
     
    02-14-2012, 01:58 PM
  #17
Green Broke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newby32    
It does look tight in this picture. His hair is super duper thick (he's a curly horse) and it makes it appear tight. I always make sure that I can fit my fingers in some.

I think it looks too far forward also. This is the problem I've posted about the "cinch placement" before. If I put it farther back, then the cinch is no where near his "armpit". Do you think that for this type of saddle, it's ok to have the cinch placed further back? I've only used typical western saddles and this one has been a bit tricky for me to figure out.
Hi all!

I'm not an endurance rider, but Newby, I think I used to have the exact same saddle. (Mine was a Bighorn.)

Anyway, the cinch on this saddle should NOT be in the armpit. That is fine for full-rigged, normal western saddles, but the rigging on an endurance saddle is supposed to put the cinch farther back to avoid galling. In other words, by design the cinch should be farther back, so that if you did a long endurance ride it would not rub the horse under the arm.

What I would do is sit the saddle on the horse a little forward and then slide it back until it hits the sweet spot behind the shoulder. That area behind the withers (which is hollow on a thinner horse) should be where the saddle tree naturally lays. Slide it into that position (hopefully you can feel it slide into the right spot) and then cinch up with the cinch hanging straight down from that position. It will be farther back because it is designed to be.

I'm not much help with how many times the strap goes around the front ring, etc. I don't remember and even if I did, I'm not sure I ever had it right either.

For simplicities sake, you can even ignore that back ring and only use the front. If you are only pleasure riding, that would be fine as many people don't ride with a back cinch. And that would actually allow your cinch to be farther forward as well.

It will take some experimentation to find out what works for you and your horse. I have found that with some horses (chubby ones like mine) that if you try to use the cinch ring farther back it will start creeping up under the arm pit and taking the saddle forward as it goes. Then the tree will be riding up on the shoulders, which is not what you want (actually, it would look exactly like your picture). But don't worry about that at the moment. Slide the saddle back into the sweet spot, cinch the horse up with the cinch hanging in whatever position it wants to be in, and don't try to force it under the armpit, and see how it goes.

You can try it with the endurance type rigging that a photo was posted of, or just for normal riding, just use that front cinch ring and ignore the back one. That might work even better for you.
Wallaby likes this.
     
    02-14-2012, 02:02 PM
  #18
Foal
It loops twice through the first and once through the back. This is exactly what I was trying to figure out. I'm going to try placing the saddle back just a bit and give it a go. Thanks again!
     
    02-14-2012, 02:04 PM
  #19
Foal
Quote:
Originally Posted by trailhorserider    
Hi all!

I'm not an endurance rider, but Newby, I think I used to have the exact same saddle. (Mine was a Bighorn.)

Anyway, the cinch on this saddle should NOT be in the armpit. That is fine for full-rigged, normal western saddles, but the rigging on an endurance saddle is supposed to put the cinch farther back to avoid galling. In other words, by design the cinch should be farther back, so that if you did a long endurance ride it would not rub the horse under the arm.

What I would do is sit the saddle on the horse a little forward and then slide it back until it hits the sweet spot behind the shoulder. That area behind the withers (which is hollow on a thinner horse) should be where the saddle tree naturally lays. Slide it into that position (hopefully you can feel it slide into the right spot) and then cinch up with the cinch hanging straight down from that position. It will be farther back because it is designed to be.

I'm not much help with how many times the strap goes around the front ring, etc. I don't remember and even if I did, I'm not sure I ever had it right either.

For simplicities sake, you can even ignore that back ring and only use the front. If you are only pleasure riding, that would be fine as many people don't ride with a back cinch. And that would actually allow your cinch to be farther forward as well.

It will take some experimentation to find out what works for you and your horse. I have found that with some horses (chubby ones like mine) that if you try to use the cinch ring farther back it will start creeping up under the arm pit and taking the saddle forward as it goes. Then the tree will be riding up on the shoulders, which is not what you want (actually, it would look exactly like your picture). But don't worry about that at the moment. Slide the saddle back into the sweet spot, cinch the horse up with the cinch hanging in whatever position it wants to be in, and don't try to force it under the armpit, and see how it goes.

You can try it with the endurance type rigging that a photo was posted of, or just for normal riding, just use that front cinch ring and ignore the back one. That might work even better for you.
Yep. Mine is a big horn too. I am so glad to know that it sits farther back. It's going to fit great if that's the case. I've been trying to use this saddle like everyone else rigs theirs up and I guess mine will be looking different as it is a very different saddle. I appreciate the help so much!!!!
     
    02-19-2012, 09:42 AM
  #20
Trained
I rode Friday. When I was cinching up, I stared at that back ring, thought about looping through it, but decided to not try it. For short, easy trail rides, it doesn't seem to matter. Though my saddle is a western type saddle, it has the exact same rigging as yours. I'm glad I at least know how it works.
     

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