What bit do you use on your gaited horses? - The Horse Forum

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post #1 of 19 Old 03-12-2010, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
Weanling
 
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What bit do you use on your gaited horses?

Just curious. I'm looking for a good bit for my Walker, so what bit do you use on your gaited horses and why do you like it?

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post #2 of 19 Old 03-12-2010, 05:47 PM
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I use the Brenda Imus comfort gait bit. :)



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post #3 of 19 Old 03-12-2010, 06:16 PM
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I use the bit that was posted above as well. I have a gaited Paso Fino.


You can see the bit when he's wearing it in the pic to the left
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post #4 of 19 Old 03-12-2010, 06:49 PM
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I use the Imus comfort gait bit as well. Both my MFT and my Paso Fino love it.
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-12-2010, 11:57 PM
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It depends on the horse. My mares are really laid back, So I just use full cheek snaffles on them, My gelding has some attitude, so I used the Imus Comfort that is shown above. My friend who also rides foxtrotters likes to use a 2" Correction bits.
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-13-2010, 12:40 AM
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I'm going to post here since it's already being talked about, but why do most gaited horse owner ride their horses in such bit ported shank bits. I know someone who has Paso Finos, and he rides them in a Colombian style spoon bit, and I was just wondering why. Can they be ridden or shown in a normal snaffle, or do they have to have a shank type bit, and what does the shank type bit do that maybe a snaffle couldn't that would make it more reasonable to ride with a shank bit. Just curious, as I am not that knowledgable about gaited horses.
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-13-2010, 07:52 AM
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Most gaited horses move with a little higher head set than the quarter horse folks. Gaited horses don't roll peanuts with their nose.

So gaited horses bits need to get the horses to carry their head slightly higher and break at the poll. They ride with a slight amount of contact with the mouth, Not a loose rein. This creates a pivot point for the horse.

The gaited breeds typically had a lot of head shake as they get into their gait. The bit stays put, but the head shakes and the pivot point of the shake is the bit. Go over to Youtube and search for Foxtrotter or other gaited breds and watch a couple of the videos and see how the head rocks back and forth at that pivot point over the bit.

So most trainers and riders. Don't need a lot of leverage. But rather want something that gives them that constant soft contact with the mounth.


Traditionally shanked bits were used with gaited horses because the horses were trained to go with an inverted frame but highly tucked headset. This is difficult to accomplish with a snaffle bit, but easy to do with a curb.

The leverage is not harsh, but is a mechanical aid for the horse that helps him to shift his weight rearward, round up through the back, and collect on the bit


This can be done with a normal snaffle, but takes more skills on the riders part and longer for the horse to learn
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Last edited by Painted Horse; 03-13-2010 at 07:57 AM.
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-13-2010, 01:18 PM
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My gaited friend with a TW claims the bit of choice for the gaited horse is the GAG BIT.. She hangs around with show people that only show TW horses.
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-14-2010, 05:12 AM
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My wife uses a tom thumb on her SSH and I use a snaffle due to someone talking trash about how all walker people use shanks so to prove that person wrong I started using a snaffle and it works fine on my TWH
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-14-2010, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Painted Horse View Post
Most gaited horses move with a little higher head set than the quarter horse folks. Gaited horses don't roll peanuts with their nose.

So gaited horses bits need to get the horses to carry their head slightly higher and break at the poll. They ride with a slight amount of contact with the mouth, Not a loose rein. This creates a pivot point for the horse.

So do they do it naturally or do they need to be made to do it??? Why do they "NEED" to do it if the horse does it natrally???

The gaited breeds typically had a lot of head shake as they get into their gait. The bit stays put, but the head shakes and the pivot point of the shake is the bit.

Do you even know what is is to "pivot"? If the bit does not move but the horses head does then the bit is not a point of pivot, it is the point of leverage and the poll is the point of pivot.

Go over to Youtube and search for Foxtrotter or other gaited breds and watch a couple of the videos and see how the head rocks back and forth at that pivot point over the bit.

So most trainers and riders. Don't need a lot of leverage. But rather want something that gives them that constant soft contact with the mounth.


Traditionally shanked bits were used with gaited horses because the horses were trained to go with an inverted frame but highly tucked headset. This is difficult to accomplish with a snaffle bit, but easy to do with a curb.

The leverage is not harsh, but is a mechanical aid for the horse that helps him to shift his weight rearward, round up through the back, and collect on the bit


So which is it? Collected or inverted?

This can be done with a normal snaffle, but takes more skills on the riders part and longer for the horse to learn

Corrected to day: This can be done in a snaffle, but it is just easier to use a leverage bit to force the horses head up and the spine to invert bringing the front end up to better "enhance" the gait.
A lot of contradictions and misinformation in that post...

I am not going on a gaited witch hunt here, I just want to answer Dressagebelle in a direct and clear way without bandying words to make one thing sound like something it is not.



DressageBelle, long shanked leverage bits are preferred in the gaited horse community to more easily cause the horse to invert and hollow its back and bring its front end out and its hind end under, this would be just all too obvious with a shorter shanked bit as the rider would have to apply more pull on the bit and make the amount of leverage used more obvious to the naked eye instead of barely having to lightly pull on a longer shanked bit and look nicer while achieving said leverage, which looks prettier than a person hauling on the reins to get the effect in a shorter shanked bit. With the long shanks, it takes only light pressure on the reins to cause a strong leverage effect on the poll and chin of the horse, causing it to hold its head high and stiff to better achieve the frame desired. With a regular snaffle this would take a lot of work and training to accomplish, so a long shank is generally easier to use for the rider or trainer.

Now these horses ARE bred to have a high headset and inverted frame, BUT the reason for the shanked bits is still the same.

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