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From snaffle to shanked

This is a discussion on From snaffle to shanked within the Western Riding forums, part of the Riding Horses category
  • Bitlogic forum horse
  • Best shanked training snaffle

 
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    09-05-2009, 11:15 PM
  #11
Showing
^^ You might want to check with the show officials and find out exactly what kind of bit is required. Some shows require a ported bit and others only require shanked. The best bet is check with the show people.
     
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    09-05-2009, 11:18 PM
  #12
Yearling
Yes, I will do that , I intend to discuss this with her 4H leader at the next meeting. If we could we would just continue to use the snaffle but I don't think she is going to change her mind and go English. Thank you
     
    09-06-2009, 09:42 AM
  #13
Foal
If you are just showing 4-H in it, it most likely will be allowed. I use that bit for showing 4-H. Check first though.

Tophandcowgirl
     
    09-06-2009, 01:33 PM
  #14
Weanling
Quote:
Originally Posted by smrobs    
I don't really like shanked bits with broken mouths (of any kind) because if you pick up one rein like you have to while training neck reining, then the signals get confusing to the horse. When my green horses start to pick up the basic idea of neck reining, then I transition them to a bit exactly like this. I don't know if this type would be acceptable or flashy enough for the show ring but there are ton's of solid mouth bits with swivel shanks that are prettier than this one. Swivel shanks are a MUST for teaching neck reining.



The port is high enough for tongue relief but low enough that there is minimal palate interference. Plus, it allows me to pick up one rein without confusing the horse. Switching from a snaffle to a shanked does cause some initial confusion regardless because the pressure is all different and can be so much stronger. BTW, the shorter the shanks are, the softer the bit will be. I personally like 6' shanks but they are a little hard to find.
That's the exact bit I have...Thought I'd say that since my description wasn't too great
     
    09-06-2009, 03:29 PM
  #15
Weanling
Ok bit transitioning....had to do lots of this with my gelding...He started on a snaffle and ended up on a light weight solid shank low/med. Port bit. I had to switch because he turned into a knot head and absolutely would not listen to his snaffle anymore...

I started by switching to a TT...that worked for a while but he started throwing his head so I decided to try a basic grazing bit. All my friends used them...it has regular shanks with almost a strait bar...sort little bump in the middle not really even a port...that worked fine for a while too but then he wouldnt stop and it was a bit heavy so I switched to my current bit. He tranistioned through all of them withing a few months and is now perfectly happy with his little curb.

So this is the order and pictures of the bits I went through:
1: http://www.probertencyclopaedia.com/j/Snaffle.jpg
2: http://www.valhallafarm.net/TomThumbBit.jpg
3: http://www.horses-and-horse-informat...s/curb_bit.gif
4: http://brokenspur.com/shop/images/640curbbit.jpg

As for the transition to neck reining I taught my boy in four days flat...really it can be done!!!

Start on the ground with nothing but a halter and a long rope tied like reins. Step back out of the horses point of view and use the rope to neck rein them over in small circles, if at first they don't get it pull their head too but only long enough to get their feet moving. After they do maybe five circles with just neck pressure stop and relieve the pressure. This is their reward for actually doing the neck rein, no more pressure. Then start up again and work until they do it consistantly. Once they are turning circles with just the pressure on their neck not pulling their head switch sides and start over doing the same thing. This makes up day one.

Day two refresh the ground stuff with about ten circles each direction then in a roundpen or small corral mount up with just the halter and rope still. Walk around neck reining the horse both ways, pointing his head when needing to with the direct rein again but try to use nothing but the neck rein. Once the horse understands it at a walk work at a trot. Do the same thing as when you walked, its just faster now. Once your horse is comfortable neck reining in the pen move to ride the pasture neck reining, still with only halter and lead rope. This makes day two.

Day three you go out with the bridle and bit and all start on the ground again. By using the halter first you built up a base in your horses head of what the neck pressure meant without any confusion. Now with the bit he may start out confussed but he still has an idea. After working ground work just like day one he will understand better and not be confused. Just work like you did on day one until he is good on both sides with the bit. That closes day three.

Day four is just a repeat of day two only with bit and bridle. Ride until he gets it in the pen then ride around the pasture neck reining. Im highly positive your horse will know how to neck rein at this point.

Now my horse is hot headed and he didnt like the switch from direct reining to neck reining. Once he understood the concept I just had to ride him lots and make him do it over and over. Now he flips like a charm!

Also it will help if you complete your bit transitioning first! So what ever bit you decide they will be ridden on is the one you need to train the horse with.

Hope all of that helps you with your bit transitions and your neck reining!
     
    09-06-2009, 08:09 PM
  #16
Yearling
So once I make the transition from the snaffle to the shank , do I never go back to the snaffle?
He does well with the snaffle now .....I just need something for showing...
I guess what I am trying to say is what if she wanted to ride him english at some point ...could we just go back to the snaffle?
     
    09-06-2009, 08:11 PM
  #17
Yearling
Pidge ,thanks for the extra info on teaching the neck rein I wll try this as well :)
     
    09-06-2009, 08:26 PM
  #18
Weanling
Your welcome and if you wanted to go back to a snaffle I think that would be ok but in order to do that I think it would be best if you rode him with a snaffle occasionally to ensure he still responds to it after training him to the curb, plus once he is transitioned he should still remember the snaffle if he's been ridden with it for a while.

So I don't see an issue with switching between a snaffle and curb when switching between western and english just so long as you make sure he understands both.
     
    09-06-2009, 08:55 PM
  #19
Yearling

I was thinking of trying this one it is 6" cheeks BitLogic from classic equine and I also looking for curb (low port)
Hmm, I don't really know though...would the Bitlogic bit be the same idea of the tom thumb?
     
    09-07-2009, 03:12 PM
  #20
Showing
I believe that it is just a fancier version of the TT, yes. IMHO, any bit with shanks needs to have at least a mostly immobile mouth. If you are looking for a bit that has independant rotation of each side without the confusion of the TT, you might want to look into a Myler or Billy Allen type mouth with shanks. :)
     

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