Tying solid to an object? - The Horse Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Tying solid to an object?

I am getting sick of DJ and her "breaking off" game while being tied up.. I know she can tie up perfectly fine, she isn't scared of being tied up, and she isn't sore(been checked), but she loses her head when I take Mitch away and leave her tied on her own.
I am seriously sick of this, the last time she did this I was riding Mitch, and she promptly galloped up and barged into the side of him then kicked him in the chest, having the poor boy freak out, jump sideways and bolt for all of about 2m where he realised I wasn't going to stay on if he kept going(saint of a horse froze on the spot at this point). Oh man I could have laid her in the ground for that one. Considering earlier in the day Mitch was tied up quite nicely minding his own business, she broke off from elsewhere, jumped the fence and proceeded to gallop THROUGH Mitchs lead rope between his head and the fence, breaking him off his tie and sending him panicking.

I would like advice on tying her solidly to an unbreakable object, and having her halter and lead withstand her 14.3, 450kg frame, that just keeps pulling till something gives way..

We have many tree's around here, but unfortunately for me they are all enclosed in fences, not ideal to tie to. There is one tree that has a fence right up against it (5 wire, not electric) that I probably could use, but having a fence there still worries me (can take photos in morning) so our solution has been to build a rather thick hitching rail.

The uprights are 2.1m long and 250-300mm in diameter, they will be driven into the ground 1m with the hydraulic post ram on the back of the tractor, the tops of the poles will have a notch cut out of them. The horizontal post, 2m long, and about 150-200mm diameter, will have a notch cut out of it at each end and be slotted into the uprights, there will then be a bolt that goes through the top of both posts, and lays flush with the posts so nobody gets hurt. nothing sticks out anywhere, there are no sharp edges on it, and i'm hoping that it will withstand the force of my mare pulling back.
I can take photos once the hitching rail is finished, but from the description, is it likely to hold to her, or am I going to have to find another way?

The next problem I have, is what do I use as a halter and rope, I have plenty of flat nylon halters, and a couple standard rope halters, but will they hold? And I know a standard lead rope won't hold, it will just snap at the clip if enough force is put on it, so what sort of rope should I look out for?

NZ's largest horse show is next week, so I can go shopping for "unbreakable tie items" there

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I'm not playing her game anymore, this is going to end, and it's going to end my way.

R.I.P ~ Bubbles - 25yo tb mare - 13.04.2011 ~ 8:30am ~ passed away naturally and peacefully in my arms
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 06:03 AM
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I would use look I to investing in a bloc her tie ring and extra long line.

Blocker Tie Ring Horse Safety Clip Equestrian Supplies Lead Rope Ropes - Blocker Ranch, Inc

I bought one for a horse that threw him self back while tied and ended up down wiggling under a 4 rail fence line... He came crashing up threw the rails and sent me flying 20 feet (rails hit me) while I was desperately trying to get the rails down. I said ENOUGH. The tie ring gives a bit of line when a horse pulls back so halter and lines aren't strained and break and they don't get that break instant release and satisfaction. I use one on all my horses now. Safety first... you never know when a horse could unexpectedly spook, get a leg over a line, fall in the trailer etc and this little gadget takes the worry out of tying.
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post #3 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Normally I tie with bailing twine, especially in the float, but she just doesn't stay put, Mitch always does.. I think I'm lucky to have had him tied with the bailing twine when she decided to run between him and the fence, don't know what damage would have been done if his twine hadn't snapped.

R.I.P ~ Bubbles - 25yo tb mare - 13.04.2011 ~ 8:30am ~ passed away naturally and peacefully in my arms
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post #4 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 07:53 AM
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I would put my time and energy into working on the buddy sour problem instead of concentrating on creating an unbreakable environment otherwise your horse is going to continue to break everything possible or get seriously hurt, Imho.
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 10:29 AM
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Bailer twine is great... but it still gives that "release" for the horse. So if they know they can get loose by pulling it just prevents a wreck it doesn't solve the issue.

An unbreakable tie is very hard to achieve and I wouldn't recommend it... Something is generally always going to give. I've seen halters break, lead snaps broke in half, the lead rope break and the object tied to give. If something does give your horse learns the release will come if they struggle hard enough and you have a huge problem on your hands. Old schoolers I know tie a Lasso around a railway post and the horse's neck... I suppose it's as close to an unbreakable tie as you'll come but there are much more humane and effective ways, like the blocker tie.

Good luck sounds like you might have some work cut out for you but hopefully she improves.
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 10:41 AM
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Sorry for the second post... I reread about your hitching post plan. I wouldn't trust it- it's amazing how strong horses are. I once had a mare bolt tied to a heavy duty hitching post (heavy duty material, top rail spiked in and strapped down) she panicked threw her self back and while I was trying to calm her the top post popped, straps spikes and all, and connected with my head. I had a serious concussion but knew I was darn lucky it was just the post side that connected and not the spiked side.
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 11:13 AM
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One meter into the ground isn't much really. I'd go twice that and reduce the horizontal to 1 meter instead of 2.

I would use a neck strap and halter combo to keep pressure off her poll and keep her head in line. One of these days I really have to take a picture of that. Maybe today... it's nice out there right now.

I had a mare that would stand tied just great 95% of the time and then for no discernible reason would decide that she wanted loose and would pull like crazy. She got away on me once and once only. I learned my lesson on that one. After that I tied her up solid with a neck strap and halter EVERY TIME. Sure enough, there came the day that she pulled and much to her dismay it didn't work. Her initial reaction was pull more, then you could almost see the wonderment in her eyes. Her brain went into gear and she just about sat down pulling so hard, then tried different positions, but to no avail. Once I saw her starting to give a tiny bit, I told her to "Stand." so it would be timed right. She settled down, I visited her for a minute and then went back to what I was doing before. After that, she still had her days, but it was more about using her brain than her muscles and weight. She never got loose again.

I tied her to the barn - bolt went right through the log wall. She can't move the barn. After that, every once in a while I would tie her just randomly anytime. She needed to stand quietly for 20 minutes before I would untie her. If she pulled at all, the clock started again. I also tied her to our 3000 lb horse trailer. I needed to know I could tie her anywhere I took her, hence the horse trailer.

Make sure you tie the lead high enough and not much slack. I gave my horse about 18 inches (45 cm) or so of slack. Enough so she could relax her head when standing calmly, but no more than that. You don't want legs getting tangled up in the lead.
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 11:19 AM
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Wouldn't trust the tie rail. Had just about the same thing, well mare spooked backwards and pulled of the entire top with her and dragged it with her about 30 ft....right into the back of my moms Cadillac. The only thing I trust to tie to now is my solid, 6 inch diameter steel welded tie post that's anchored about 2 ft in the ground with concrete. The only thing I've seen other then a tree not even shake when a horse throws itself back.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernMama View Post
One meter into the ground isn't much really. I'd go twice that and reduce the horizontal to 1 meter instead of 2.
Oh, and tie at the post, not in the middle of the horizontal. The horizontal is only there for "good" horses. :)

Anchoring in concrete is an excellent idea.
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-14-2014, 12:13 PM
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We have had a thread up like this one not too long ago.
The Blocker Tie Ring works on Resistance, the same as Dallying 2-3 times and will not teach a horse to stop backing, he will keep pulling untill the lead comes loose or break if there is a total stop. These may work for horses that go into Panic Mode where their brain kinda turns off when they feel they are totaly locked, when they feel resistance or something breaks the panic subsides.

Some use a bunge rope or rubber boat moring ties, I recommend not to use them, should they break at the wrong end you horse can loose an eye.

Pullers of Bad Habbit who have learned that "I pull hard enough I am free!!" need to be tied hard and fast!
Over the years I have used an old Cowboy Trick for pullers by useing a strong rope that I loop over the back - between the legs - through the halter - tie to a solid tree.....and let him fight it out with himself, 2-3 hard tries and he stop pulling and throwing himself to the ground.
The other way workd on the same principle, itīs the Sierra Horse Halter:
See if this workds:
Instead of over the back you take the rope around the middle of the neck - through the halter - fast to the tree. You can see in the film how it works.

You do not need to buy the halter, you can use a good cotton rope, tie a bolen knot and run it through the halter.
good luck.
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