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how to motivate a horse to lunge at a walk

4K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  Saddlebag 
#1 ·
I am no trainer but need to start lunging my horse. He is a lazy 6 yr old and it is hard to get him to move out at a walk and keep going. He will go for a minute maybe then just stop. He is better at the trot though and will go longer. He just does not seem to be motivated at all to go and really I have very little experience with lunging. When he wants to be done he will just not move at all, even when I am holding his line up by his side. The very few horses I have lunged have gone with very little encouragement, Thank you for any help..Are there any good recommended you tubes for stubborn, lazy horses? I have seen a few but the horses were easier. Also he will try to walk into me and not stay out.
 
#4 ·
Sounds like, whether or not he's learned how to lunge, he's worked out that you haven't! Reinforce whatever you get - ie if he'll give you a minute I'd ask for a bit less & then *ask* him to stop &/or otherwise reward him for that. Get him doing this keenly before asking for a little more. Don't ask for so much that it becomes 'work' to him.


Horses are great for outpersisting people, until they give up & the horse learns that behaviour works. If they were a human you'd tend to call this 'stubbornness' perserverance & look at it as a good trait. If/when he stops of his own accord, make the 'right' thing easy & make stopping of his own accord difficult for him - I'd start by 'asking' him to walk on by signalling with the rope & your body, then if/when he ignores that, raise the whip/stick and signal with that, before actually popping him with it - just hard enough to be unpleasant & keep it up until he decides to move from it. Pretty soon he'll decide to move off your initial signals in order to avoid what will follow if he doesn't.
 
#5 ·
Also he will try to walk into me and not stay out.
Oh forgot to comment on that bit. Chances are, he either doesn't know what you want of him or he's worked out this is another way of 'beating' you at this game. Therefore you also need to make it clear & easy & rewarding to do what you ask and make it difficult/uncomfortable for him to come in to you. **However** I also think a horse coming to it's human for comfort is very important & you don't want to ruin that. Therefore it can be a bit of a balancing act and if you're not sure of his confidence, I'd allow & encourage a lot of coming to you first & foremost, before starting to teach him to stay out on a circle. Ie. teach him to move out but not stay out, until he's confident of what he's doing. Also do lots of asking him in, so he knows he'll still find a 'sweet spot' with you.
 
#6 ·
I'm having the same problem, my mare will trot and canter but won't slow down to walk. She also "decides" she's going to stop, turn in and literally run me over. Or she runs into and around me with her shoulder and rears a bit. If I try to pull on her halter to correct her, she treatens to bite. Should I back way off and reward her for tiny positive behaviors, or should I push her until I win. I don't want to "break" her but would rather influence her to be easy and sweet. She is also in the process of weaning her 14 month old filly. They can see each other but can't be together, I don't know if she is just feeling moody.
 
#7 ·
I'm having the same problem, my mare will trot and canter but won't slow down to walk.
A lot of horses are not taught how to walk on a circle. She may have been taught in a manner that made her nervous &/or not allowed to slow down. Does she know how to slow down on lead without you actually having to pull on her? If not, I'd teach her this first before 'testing' it by asking her to do it at gradually greater distances, until it's effectively lunging.

She also "decides" she's going to stop, turn in and literally run me over. Or she runs into and around me with her shoulder and rears a bit. If I try to pull on her halter to correct her
Sounds like she's got your number! I don't get why you want to pull on her in order to get her to stay away. This may be contributing to the behaviour. If you want her to stay out/move away, you need to push on her... One of the reasons for carrying a big stick!:wink:

I'd teach her to yield to pressure, both direct(touch/push) & implied(waving rope/stick, pointing, etc), before asking her to do it at a distance on the lunge. Then when she starts to turn in to you, point the stick towards her head/shoulder, to get her to move that part away. If/when she doesn't respond to this light suggestion, get gradually stronger in your request until it's uncomfortable for her to ignore you. If when you push on her, she's the sort of horse to push back harder, I'd 'up the ante' a lot, to be effective **BUT if you're not sure of yourself & as it sounds like she's an assertive type who's the 'boss' of this relationship, I would advise you find a good trainer or at least experienced & competent horseperson to help you, as you don't want to just get into a battle with her & it can potentially get dangerous. When she stops on the line without coming in to you, just signal her to start again & keep the pressure on until she *starts* to do as you ask.

Should I back way off and reward her for tiny positive behaviors, or should I push her until I win.
IMO yes & yes. Ensure you're reinforcing the 'good' behaviour you do get & try not to ask too much - quit while you're ahead instead of going until she calls the shots. You need to find a way of being effective & 'winning' without making her a loser - think 'win-win'.
 
#8 ·
Thank you both Saddlebag and Loosie, very good advice. I was walking him one way for 5 minutes then the other way 5 minutes before hving him go into a trot so can easily make that change. I feel every day is gets a little better and yesterday a friend from the barn put 3 barrels on their sides to keep me from moving too far and to keep Dillon out and away from me. We actually ended up just using a long lead rope yesterday. I will go back and read the rest of the posts and write some of this info down, you both are the best! Confidence huh? Wouldn;t really have thought of that!

PS. yes he has my number but I am persistent as well..haha
 
#9 ·
Do you lunge in a bridle?
I found this makes a difference, with a lunge line attached, and a whip. You don't have to use the whip, but its good to have it there in case of any eventuality.

You need to make sure you're looking at his hind legs, when you see them falter to go to a walk, push him on with a 'walk on' or a cluck. Make sure your positioned, in the centre, but more behind him, if you're nearer the shoulder, he'll slow down.

Pawnsfur, I would reccomend that your mare needs a dose of manners! Duffy was the same, first time I lunged her she reared, switched rein and got as fast and silly as she could! She did it twice, my own fault as I was stood there in shock! Then I bought a fairly long lunge crop. Now, I don't want my horse to be wary and run away from my whip, but I want her to have a fair amount of respect for it. When she tried to spin, I stepped towards her hind legs, lunge whip in hand, and just licked her with it on her flank. It took a couple of times, but it worked. As for walking, I had the same problem. Ask for walk, and if you don't get that response, move to go in front of her, make sure your lunge whip is there, and you have a good hold of that lunge line, and make her walk. It is definetly a respect thing with lunging, if she knows what she should do but chooses to ignore you. hope this helps!
 
#10 ·
I am no trainer but need to start lunging my horse. He is a lazy 6 yr old and it is hard to get him to move out at a walk and keep going. He will go for a minute maybe then just stop. He is better at the trot though and will go longer. He just does not seem to be motivated at all to go and really I have very little experience with lunging. When he wants to be done he will just not move at all, even when I am holding his line up by his side. The very few horses I have lunged have gone with very little encouragement, Thank you for any help..Are there any good recommended you tubes for stubborn, lazy horses? I have seen a few but the horses were easier. Also he will try to walk into me and not stay out.

If he will lunge at a trot, but not walk, lunge him at a trot, and keep him there , until he offers to walk. Don't let him. Make him trot and trot and trot, then let him walk.

You simply must make him move. If he won't move forward, then make him move any direction. It's more a matter of breaking him out of his resistance. So, if he locks up and wont go forward (and probably there's some issue with how you are standing and giving the cues . The problem could very well be based in your body language and skill with lunging.), then make him back up, or turn him. Make him MOVE! then quietly ask for forward, again.
 
#11 ·
Be sure you are standing at or behind the girthline. That is where the motor is, you can't push him forward if you are in front of his shoulders. Pay attention to where you are standing because that could be the simple answer to your problem. If you want the horse to stop or turn then you'll move in front of the shoulder.

Him coming in is probably him telling you that he doesn't want to work and knowing that by coming in towards you, you are going to back away, which means he is controlling you.

Tiny has a good idea there. If the horse wants to trot don't let it be his idea. Let it be yours, which means he can trot, but he doesn't get to pick when he stops. He stops when YOU want him to stop.

The directional changes are also a good idea because as said before he'll go inside himself and just go through the motions if you send him one way too long. Don't loose his attention...

Good luck.
 
#12 ·
Be sure you are standing at or behind the girthline. That is where the motor is, you can't push him forward if you are in front of his shoulders.
As you can see, there are many ways 'to skin a cat' and I think it's more about teaching the basics well *first* before lunging & knowing how to be effective.

Re different methods, I agree with the above that it's *easier* to push a horse forward from behind, but not impossible, if you teach them clearly, to 'push' from in front. Likewise, re the person saying you must look at their rear end, this may help you see the finer signs, but I don't necessarily focus on my horse, stand in a particular way or anything *when the horse is doing as I asked* because I don't want them to learn they only have to listen to me when I'm in that attitude.

Re the details of my own method of teaching, having got on the Parelli bandwagon in a big way when I was relatively new to horses, I use the '7 Games' type approach and while there are lots of things I do differently these days(not sure a die-hard Parelli-ite would necessarily recognise it as such!:razz:), I find the basic principles are sound & effective.

Interested OP in why you're lunging? Are you wanting to teach your horse something or just exercise his body? If you're wanting to teach, IMO, 5 minutes of the same thing is something you may want to aim for, but I'd start at just a couple of circles & not do more until he's reliable about that much.
 
#14 ·
This post is chuck full of good advice and things to think about, thank you! I am getting better and learning everytime I work with him. I do use a whip but no bridle/bit. Dillon was hit by lightning on June 21st so I do not want to push him too hard. A vet was recommended to me by someone so we had him drive an hour to get to our barn. He said his body is all out of whack, he did chiro. on him and did 6 adjustments, then did accupunture. He also says he has TMJ now and previously I did try to put a bit in his mouth and he threw his head up high. That was not like him so I only tried one more time before I knew for certain something was not right. He told me to begin working him 20 minutes a day at the walk and trot so that is why I am lunging him now.

Actually it has been a good thing for both of us to be able to work together! Thank you all, very good answers to my questions! Now we will see how some of these ideas help when the rain stops.
 
#16 ·
this was one of the first couple or so times lunging him. notice my right arm still out and whip out on other hand..haha that was before I was told once he is going I don't have to hold them out there. I was happy to hear that because that right arm was getting very tired! lol
 
#17 ·
What a pretty horse he is, and you are moving along nicely with him, considering some challenges he's had.

Yeah, you can relax the driving arm. Another thing you can do is hold the lungline just the same way you would hold a rein (English style, if you know that). I mean over the top of your index finger, pinching with the thumb on top, and out between the pinky and the ring finger. You can literally use the line as you would a rein; so, close your hand and maybe "milk" it a little with your fingers to get a tiny big of give on the line by the horse. Firm up your elbow and abdominal muscles , just as you would when riding, when asking for a downward transisiton. Open you hand a little bit when you ask him to step up a bit more. REally think of "riding" him with that "rein" and keep your body in a frame of riding, too.

The leading hand should be lower than the driving hand, when you ARE driving. So, be sure that if you raise the whip that you don't have the leading hand higher than the whip hand. You want to have the leading hand kind of the "open door". Like you are indicating as a butler would with his lowered extended hand, "right this way, Sir". If the two hands are quite equal then he may feel stuck between one hand driving and one not openning the door and then the horse may not get as good a feel of direction indication. The face of your body (which direction your are slightly facing) also helps hime feel which direction to go.
 
#19 ·
oh, I once took a lunging lesson from a classically trained dressage rider/trainer. Man! she was so hard on me. I could NOT get it right for her. She could make magic on a lungline, though. But that one thing I did learn from her, to handle and think of the line as a rein, has made a big difference. I also link my elbo to my side and core muscles, just the same way I would mounted. When I am asking for a down transition, I literally stiffen my core, "deepen" my "seat" and think, "slow now" and breathe out.

In the up transition, I swear I am squeezing my buttocks together ( the standing version of putting a leg on ) , lifting my chest and chin and thinking "up we go!".
 
#20 ·
If you want to really get to know your horse and laugh at yourself, remove his halter. He is now at liberty. Now see what you can ask him to do. It doesn't have to be circles but you will soon learn that how you hold your whip, your leading hand which directs his direction, moving toward him with energy, backing up a few steps, brings what results. He'll be teaching you about what works so you need to listen to him as he does you. When it starts coming together it's an awesome feeling.The horse I focused on will lunge in a huge circle in an open field with just my hand pointing the direction and just wiggling the driving hand. He changes direction as I change hands. If I step toward him he will turn to the outside, if I step back he will turn to the inside. It's so neat I wind up laughing. Oh, and each time your see your horse, extend your arm, look at his nostrils and invite him to touch your fist. He has to come the last inch. This turned my horse from running to the farthest corner to always coming to say hello. I do say the word hello each time. The odd time a treat but seldom.
 
#21 ·
This just keeps getting better and better. If I work hard at this I will someday be a pro like you all! lol, i have a hard enough time trying to hold the heavy lunge line in one hand or not tripping on it and holding the whip in the other hand, sometimes I catch myself holding the excess line in the whip hand.
That being said thank you both again and I will work on your suggestions, I am getting a desire to really learn this lunging process..haha but true.

I have a post running in the health section on the progress of Dillon after he was hit by lightning, it is called "My horse was hit by lightning and survived", you might want to check it out, I can not believe the people that are so caring and concerned and interested..even suggestions that I write a book...it just kind of blows me away. love this forum members!!
 
#22 ·
Saddlebag, this is so cute, when I go out to retrieve Dillon from his pasture (there are woods all around), he turns to see where the calling is coming from..it must echo in the trees or something like that. I will keep calling until he turns and see's me, then bless his heart he whinnys, shakes his head and comes cantering to me! I LOVE that about him!!!! Ok he usually gets some kind of treat or grain with his supplements so I can't take all the credit but...well I still love it! He just started the whinnying a few weeks ago but even before that he still came running, life is good!

I lunge in a small paddock not in a round pen. If I tried no halter in there I know he would drop his head and start eating, no doubt on this issue, Not quite ready for that but there is a small roundpen down in one of the paddocks, I could try your suggestion down there, then I would at least have some control. Tgif!
 
#23 ·
Bunny, when I've worked, no, played with my horse in the paddock it is about 64x 80 with short grass in the middle. When the horse stops to eat, wave your arms at him and charge forward a few steps toward his hip but not close enough to get kicked. Horses to this to each other, make another move off his eating spot. This will encourage him to turn to look at you. If you have to use your whip, again run a few steps and really whack it on the ground. He'll move. Then ask him to walk on if he doesn't look at you-both eyes. The whip tells him you mean business but soon you'll not need it, maybe just a crop or stick. I've often used a 5' long thin willow branch as the end is very whippy and will really sing in the air. The horse's excellent hearing detects that even tho we might not. Have fun, and never think "we must get this done today" and he'll see to it that you don't. People get too caught up in what is correct training. Observe your horse and see how he responds to what you ask. That is correct training. Take a comfy chair and just sit and enjoy the day in with him. Let him investigate you. Don't pet him but drive him back if he begins to crowd too close for your comfort. Or just move your chair a few feet. I owned my fearful horse for over two years before he checked me out, every inch. I had sat down on a tire which made me quite low and it gave him the confidence. That is how we build trust. It takes the relationship with the horse to a higher level.
 
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