Will your horse respond to your bit? - The Horse Forum
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post #1 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Will your horse respond to your bit?

If not, have you considered why?

Recently, I have seen an influx of threads asking advice about "what bit to put my horse in because I don't have control of him/her?" As opposed to retyping my opinion several times, I just decided to have a bit of a 'rant' thread.

First off, if your horse simply refuses to listen to the bit, then the problem isn't with the bit. The problem lies with what training (or lack thereof) and handling the horse is getting. The fact is that 99% of the time that a horse is ignoring the bit, slinging his head, nosing out, or any other action that most people associate as a "bit problem", it isn't the bit at all. It is a terrible thing to see that so many people are not being taught how to properly cue a horse with the bit. They almost always have solid contact and in order to stop or turn, they just pull harder. Those people have hard hands. HARD HANDS MAKE HARD HORSES.

If the horse isn't as responsive as you like in the bit that you have, then work on him in the bit that you have. It is better to go back to a simple snaffle for schooling or corrective work though because it is one of the mildest bits that you can find. If a horse is responsive in a simple snaffle, then you can ride him in anything; however, if you ride him in a twisted wire gag for him to be responsive, then you would have no control in anything less. All the time we see it: a horse gets hard in the snaffle so they move him up to a twisted snaffle, then he gets hard in that so they move him up to a Tom Thumb bit (one of the most worthless bits ever made in my opinion), then he gets hard in that so they move him up to a solid mouth curb with longer shanks, then he gets hard in that so they move him up to a gag bit or a combination bit like those you see with a hard rope noseband and gag bit. Before you know it, the horse is being ridden in a 1/8 inch double twisted wire gag bit. Then 'what a miracle' the horse ends up hard to that too and at this point, they say "Well he is a stupid horse" or "He's stubborn" or "He gets excited". They never for one instant consider that every problem that horse has is rider error and by that point, the poor horse is usually beyond the point of no return.

Not many people are concerned with learning how to be soft with their hands and those that aren't will always blame the horse or the bit for every problem they have. You teach softness by being soft. You maintain softness by being soft. There are certain times, especially when handling a green horse, that being hard for an instant is required but it takes someone who understands horses and knows softness to know how much 'hard' is required and when it will be beneficial to the horse. Many riders should spend their lifetime riding with nothing more than a snaffle because they don't understand when, how, or why to use the bite that a curb bit has. Even fewer people have any business using a twisted wire bit for any reason. Those bits should be reserved for only the most experienced and talented horsemen to use on only the most outlaw horses and only for a few days to re-gain respect for the bit. They should never be used for everyday riding by your typical 'fun' rider, or even a competition rider.

Many horses that end up hard due to improper riding can be re-trained to be soft-ish, however, they will never be as soft as a horse that was taught from the beginning to be responsive to the slightest cues. If you are having trouble at the lope or gallop, then it isn't a sudden problem just because of the change of gait. The issues are there at the walk and trot, they are just more subtle. Any gaps in training at the slower gaits will reveal themselves at speed.

No horse that got the proper training or riding needs to be moved up from a snaffle. We, as riders, choose to move to a different bit because of our preferances or training goals. I choose to ride in a ported curb because I ride one handed on a loose rein and a ported curb is designed for that, a snaffle is not. However, I can still stick any of my horses in a snaffle bit and they respond the same way. If I rode all my horses on light contact and direct reined, would I still use the curb? Absolutely not because it isn't designed for that and it is too much bit for that type of riding. The more advanced bits are designed for finesse, not power.

Anyone who says their horse needs to be in this special bit is just kidding themselves. The horse needs that bit because his training and handling dictates that the rider needs that bit to communicate because their hands only know how to scream. They cannot understand the sublety of a whisper and as a result, their horse has learned to tune out all but the loudest of screams.

Are there horses out there that seem to be immune to the softness of the snaffle from day one? Of course, but those are very rare and that immunity is generally paired with an outlaw nature that is dangerous to handle anyway. If a horse can be trained to accept a rider, then they can be trained to be soft to a snaffle bit.

Some horses misbehave in the bit due to a physical issue, whether it is a tooth problem or a nerve problem in their mouth or some other reason that carrying a bit would be painful. Some riders simply choose to ride bitless. Does that make them less knowledgeable or have a lower worth as a horseman than someone who rides in a bit? No. However, the bitless options out there are no different than the bit options. There are very mild choices like a simple halter or sidepull, there are more advanced options like the bosal, and then there are ridiculous options like those chain nosed mechanical hackamores. The same rules apply to those as they do to bits; stick with the mildest choice unless you need more finesse as the training level progresses.

To make a long story short, a bigger bit is designed to create finesse later in training, they are not meant to simply give a rider more power. A power struggle with a horse will always end up with the horse ruined and the rider frustrated and hateful.

Results come from what you put in their head,
not what you put on it.

Last edited by smrobs; 08-16-2010 at 07:08 PM.
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post #2 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:11 PM
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Well said! Love every word. I think people to often jump to the next bit up as a shortcut to good training.

I also prefer to ride a curb. Only when the snaffle training is done. I have known too many people who jump them right to a curb looking for better brakes and lose the turn. A horse has to be taught to ride in a curb...the same as he is taught to be ridden in a snaffle. The two are only similar in the way that they are both bits. A snaffle and a leverage bit are WORLDS apart. I wish people would realize that.
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post #3 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:28 PM
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I didn't read your whole post (sorry) I have a headache (because I got bucked off today) and at the moment I would like to shove barbed wire in my horses mouth... I don't mean that but im cranky and sore ATM..

Anyway I had a question, not sure if anyone will understand this tho..

Q: With a snaffle wouldn't it be more painful that something like a french like bit? Since when you pull back the "nutcracker" thingy wouldn't it hit and put pressure in the roof of the mouth? I just always thought that...

But I do agree fully with what you are saying though :)
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Horses are scared of two things... Things that move and things that don't.
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post #4 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, a french link, dogbone, or even a myler type mouth would also be very nice mild options. However, it depends on what your horse prefers and the shape of their mouth. Some horses really hate tongue pressure and respond better in either a standard or a ported snaffle. Others have a low palate and prefer the more streamlined shape of the former types.

The most important thing about a snaffle is it has a 1:1 ratio. That means for every pound you exert on the reins, the horse feels a pound in his mouth. It is impossible to find anything milder than that. Plus the thing that makes it so simple is that it works on just the mouth. It is easier to communicate to a horse that is just learning. Once you add a shank, not only is it working on the mouth, but it is pressuring the curb and the poll too. That makes for more complicated signals and easier confusion.
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post #5 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:45 PM
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I agree with everything you've said. Recently I came under fire at a riding club meeting for riding my 10 year old QH gelding in a plain "O" ring snaffle bit. This gal is a "trainer", so therefor knows everything. She said if my horse wanted to, that he could run off with me. I reminded her that no bit can guarentee a horse to stop- that training does that, and hanging a bigger/heavier bit in a horse's face doesn't do anything but sweep the issue under the rug. That shut her up. :)

ETA: For the record, my horse has never run off with me.

~And on the 6th day God created the Quarter Horse. On the 8th day, he painted the good ones.~
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post #6 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:46 PM
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I ordered a bit from Mylar today after explaining the stage my horse is in of training.
The said about every horse goes into the combination bit which does put some pressure on the nose and I ordered the #4 mouth piece that is contoued and broken with lots of tongue relief. I did order the leather noseband instead of the harsher rawhide and the 3 ring shanks so I can use less leverage and have options for more leverage if needed. The last time I went to see him the trainer had him in a tomthumb and I rode him and had no handle on him we then switched to a mild gag and he was graet to ride. I have soft hands and will actually work on getting him to stop when I sit back after he gets home. I left him for another month and hopefully he has some more softness and more responsive. I had to order a bit before talking with the trainer as I need one by the end of the week so I can ride him as soon as I get him home.
What are your thoughts on this bit. It isn't shipping until Wed so I can change if needed although I have no idae what I would change to
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post #7 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:50 PM
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^ Ray, a snaffle is ANY bit without any leverage, so a french like, mullen mouth, single joint - They are all snaffles, just different types. Yes, many people are moving away from the single joint snaffle nowadays because of the nutcracker action - But funnily enough, horses will always throw you, and there are some horses out there who really like their single joints and abhor any double jointed snaffle. It's all up to the individual horses preferences - Wether they prefer tongue pressure, bar pressure, or palate pressure - How their mouth is made up, etc.

And amen, Smrobs - You know I agree 100%. I am a staunch defender of the snaffle! though I really am trying to find a curb here that is similar to yours, and having a hard time!
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post #8 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:53 PM
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I'll jump in as well.

A combination bit can be great for a lot of horses - It can also be very confusing for a lot of horses. It exerts pressure on every part of the face - The mouth, the nose, the chin, the poll. This can be too much for some sensitive horses, or can be ideal for horses who are too sensitive in the mouth.

If you do want to soften him up, I don't think the combination bit is the tool for the job. It is easiest and simplest to soften a horse up in a snaffle - As it sends very clear signals, and any release is communicated quickly and clearly to the mouth. It is harder to get a clear release with so many pressure points on a combination bit - And it is the release that teaches, not the pressure.

The combination bit may well work for him after you have softened him up and have him going well.

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post #9 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:54 PM
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Well said!!
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post #10 of 647 Old 08-16-2010, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you W_S. You took the words right out of my mouth regarding that bit. You saved me more typing.
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