Horse changing speed and direction - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-18-2017, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smilie View Post
Besides what has been said, you need to anticipate, before you get to the problem spot, and have some body control on the horse
For instance, say you are loping a circle (don't ride on the rail, to school ), on the half of the arena with the out gate.You know she is going to want to try and head for that out gate, by just leaning i her shoulder, drifting in that direction, so before you get tot hat spot, ride her positively forward, block outside shoulder with outside rein, and use your leg to bump shoulder if needed
Far as zig zagging, that can be quickly stopped, if you have the horse responsive to your legs, and can keep her evenly between your reins, while keeping that forward
If you are riding on the rail, and she speeds up as she gets near the gate, you can stop her , back her with your legs, and then ask her to go at the speed asked for
You can also stop her, turn her over her hocks, and go back in the direction away from the gate
I'm doing fine when I have contact, exactly as you described. Anticipating and preventing. The trouble is I want her to behave the same without contact. And, maybe unrealistically and over-ambitiously, I want her to stop trying it :) She is much better already when I have contact, she seems to have realized that she isn't getting away with it when she can feel a bit of pressure in her mouth.

Thank you for your time.
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post #12 of 19 Old 03-18-2017, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jgnmoose View Post
Horses are smart.


I think it is important to mention that I don't consider this bad behavior or even "sourness". If you repeat a pattern the horse will learn it, that is what makes them trainable and what makes them such amazing animals.
LOL!
That is why I seldom used to practice any reining pattern, nor change leads each time, coming across center, but rather just practiced the elements.

I do think, being drawn to the out gate, is a degree of sourness, which has to be dealt with, before it becomes 'serious' . I have seen some horses get to the extreme point of running off at the shoulder, making that dash to the out gate
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post #13 of 19 Old 03-18-2017, 09:57 PM
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Well, to make her 'honest' on aloose rein, you are going to have to make attempts uncmfortable, thus correct her firmly, then give her achance to stay correct again
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post #14 of 19 Old 03-18-2017, 10:36 PM
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I don't think it's unrealistic or over ambitious at all to expect her to stop. In fact the only horse I might consider to fit that bill would be a spoiled school horse ridden by children, and I still would expect that horse to stop pretty darn quickly with an experienced rider.

Simply put you are LETTING her do this by not correcting her. You can take that as you will. If you choose to follow your trainers advice and avoid the issue that's up to you but don't expect the issue to be fixed that way, at best it will stay the same and not escalate.

If you want it to stop you need to correct her. I would not deal with it, period. It's obnoxious, it's rude, and as Smilie said it can become serious and even dangerous if it gets worse. It's also a very very basic thing and I won't ever let those basic things be an issue because to me that means I've failed as a horse person, and also that I've failed my horse where they don't have the training or the relationship with me to listen properly. It also effects your riding and training in general. It's up to you how much you want to work on this issue but like I said, I would be allll over it. To me it's the sort of issue that has nothing to do with riding despite you being on her back at the time. It's an issue of respect and the relationship and she's obviously not focusing or caring about you at that moment in time, it's no different then her being barn sour or buddy sour..why does she need to be sour about anything? It sounds unpleasant just saying it lol. I don't let my horses have holes like that. Shrug. I think you just need to decide what direction you want to go in first.
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post #15 of 19 Old 03-19-2017, 12:30 AM
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this is a video by Warwich Schiller.

in this case, it about making a horse willing to go up toward things that scare him. not exactly YOUR situation. but, the same idea applies; let him go where he wants to go but as soon as he chooses to go that way, make it difficult or uncomfortable (not horrible), and repeatedly offer him the chance to go where YOU want to go. eventually he will see that your idea is better than his idea.
watch how warwick keeps a loose rein, and uses his single rein to lead the hrose in the "let's go direction", and kind of flutters his legs annoyingly when horse goes in the "my way" direction.

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post #16 of 19 Old 03-19-2017, 03:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all. As I said, I wanted a second opinion. I agree with all of you. I'm not experienced enough to go against my instructor without some confirmation that I'm right. I now need to think long and hard on how to go about this without telling my instructor that a buch of people on Internet told me something :)

Again, I am very grateful that this forum exists. It really exposes me to different ways of doing things which I wouldn't have otherwise.
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post #17 of 19 Old 03-19-2017, 04:34 AM
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I hope this doesn't cause you a lot of stress.
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post #18 of 19 Old 03-19-2017, 04:39 AM
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I agree with Avna and what others have said.

To work a horse hard at the gate doesn't mean that it has to go fast or look pretty, the point is to make that area unpleasant.

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post #19 of 19 Old 03-19-2017, 01:05 PM
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I am going to address just the changing speed, on a loose rein, versus any attempt to run towards the in gate, as I see perhaps a two fold problem.
I think by what the Op posted, she wishes to be able to rate her horse, on a loose rein, and assume she is riding along the rail
That is a final skill, once the horse is very correct , far as body control, using contact as needed, while driving with legs, working off the rail. The horse has then learned to stay between legs and reins, thus had guide. You have also given the horse chances to stay correct, on a loose rein, picking up contact again, if needed, in combo with legs, to fix the horse. Rinse and repeat
Then, when you are ready to ride on that rail, you try not to school, making the rail a good place to be. You thus trust the horse to go at the speed you want, on a loose rein.
If he does not do so, take him off the rial and school. There are many ways to slow a horse without bit contact,, that you use, in trianing, so that when you do show that horse, you have those 'buttons' to slow the hrose, without rein contact.
The hrose has to learn that leg contact does not mean just to speed up, but rather to drive deeper, which in turn, will be a cue for the hrose to rate speed
While you are training, if the hrose speeds up, add more pressure to your stirrups, as the initial cue, then stop the horse, back him up, and then give him achance to go correctly on that loose rein
Soon, the horse will learn to slow, with that added pressure and leg contact alone, knowing if he does not do so, he will be stopped and backed fairly hard
This then leads to being able to rate that hrose , in the show ring, eventually, off of leg and seat alone
If you want to ride a horse eventually on a loose rein, then you have to correct him, when he is ridden in that manner, without resorting to the bit
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