Stall Advice & BI's? - The Horse Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-08-2017, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Stall Advice & BI's?

Okay, I'm note exactly new to owning horses but I've never kept my mare in a self-care stall before. I had her, briefly, in a partial ( which ended up costing more than full care or pasture so we moved her back to pasture ) and I haven't done anything with stalls sense ( almost 3 years ago. )

The thing is, we're doing stall board for the three we have now, because the location we've found has more stall space than paddock or run space ( it's a county facility ). So I have a few questions to try and make things simpler for us because I'm having some trouble tracking down the information online just by searching on my own.

First Question: Bedding advice? I'm trying to track down information on what the pricing for pellets and/or shavings would be. I know what the prices are from Tractor supply ( which in the past has been a huge money sink ) but I'm not sure what the usual ranges are for decent quality bedding bundles. Or how many it would take to fill, say, a 12 x 12 stall with 2-4 inches of bedding. Stalls will be cleaned daily, if that helps any?

Second Question: Brand Inspection. I honestly have never heard of this until today. But I've also not moved horses out of Oklahoma before! None of my animals have brands, currently, and likely won't for a year or more yet (we do plan on branding them eventually though) and I'm having trouble finding information on how to go about dealing with this in my state. I'm moving my horses from Oklahoma to Utah, and BI's are done in Utah/required there. Any advice on what to do about this? What does it usually cost? At the moment all I can find is that unbranded animals just need their registration papers and photos to compare that, yes, it's the correct animal/owner. But.... I lost my mare's paperwork |'D the other two we'll have those in hand, but with my older mare I'm having to dig and (possibly) resend for them!


Honestly; any advice on getting stall board up and started and what things we will, for sure, need. Not 'this would be nice but not necessary' but 'you absolutely need this'.
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post #2 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 07:43 AM
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1. I stopped buying shavings from the lumber yard years ago. Savings are a pain to shovel off the truck and worse I got to the point where I didn't trust WHAT KIND of shavings I was getting ---- shavings from some types of trees can cause founder and you only have the word of the sawmill those kinds of trees haven't been mixed into the shavings.

1.1 buy pine shavings. I won't use TSC shavings anymore ---- the stores in my area have rotten smelling shavings and we have found computer paper, old painted wood, all kinds of garbage stuff.

1.2. Where I live, bales (small sealed bags) are ~$5.00/bag. We buy by the pallet. Depending on brand some pallets = 40 bags, some = 45 bags. We have a dually with a full back seat so 42 bales fit in the bed with the remaining three going in the back seat. That is only if my husband is stacking. The employees at the Co-Op have no desire to learn to load the bags correctly:(

1.3. I am no help regarding pellets. I have read comments they are dusty and need wet down ---- they cost more than shavings where I live, so adding the fact I have to wet them, buying them isn't happening, lol

1.4. My stalls are 12 x 14. If they get stripped wall-to-wall, it will take four bags of shavings. I only do that a few times yearly.

I clean manure every day. I have the bowl type manure forks as they hold more and a wide aluminum shovel as it holds more and is light.

I clean the pee spots every other day and put garden lime (dolomite) down every time I clean down to the mats. Garden lime is cheaper than PDZ plus we use it on those sad time we have to bury a cat or a dog.

My stalls are deep crush with grid mats on top, shavings on top,of the grid mats.

It takes 1-1/2 to two bags of shavings every time I clean the pee spots out. I go thru a pallet of shavings a month for just two horses but they have to be in 16 hours daily so I want their stalls clean.

I have over 20 acres of lush pasture. One horse is severely insulin resistant, the other is a really easy keeper and could go that way. Both are in their early 20's. Thus why I keep them in so many hours:(.

2. You need:

washable feed pans. I have pipe panel stalls so I have the kind that hang on the pipe rail.

Water buckets. If you buy five gallon buckets, buy fasteners to hook them to the stall so they don't get tipped over.

I buy 20 gallon muck tubs, which don't need fastened to anything. I clean them out with a fish tank net every day. In the summer I dump them every 3-4 days. In the winter I dump and clean them once a week. Cleaning them out daily with a fish net REALLY keeps the water from getting sour quicker.

Also, there is such a thing as a 20 gallon HEATED water tubs ---- I have four of them (I laid my two elders to rest not too long ago:(. If you live in the frozen tundra in the winter, you need heated water for the horses. Hopefully there is electric in the barn and the wiring is safe.

WHITE 50# salt blocks blocks and a salt block holder to keep them in, as opposed to sitting them on the ground. Don't let the feed store sell you those gray salt blocks with dark flecks in them. DH bought them on accident and not only wouldn' t the horses touch them, neither would the deer.

2. Branding requirements --- I'm from east of the Mississippi and never knew some states have branding requirements so I'm zero help in that regard.

Hope this is helpful:)

A Good Horseman Doesn't Have To Tell Anyone; The Horse Already Knows.

I CAN'T ride 'em n slide 'em. I HAVE to lead 'em n feed 'em Thnx cowchick77.

Last edited by walkinthewalk; 06-09-2017 at 07:49 AM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 01:15 PM
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walkinthewalk - Just curious to why you keep yours in so much because they are in their early 20's? One of the horses at my barn was turned out 24/7 and was 32 when she passed this spring. We only stalled her during the winter at night when temps got below 40*F.
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidinDually View Post
walkinthewalk - Just curious to why you keep yours in so much because they are in their early 20's? One of the horses at my barn was turned out 24/7 and was 32 when she passed this spring. We only stalled her during the winter at night when temps got below 40*F.
My 22 yr old TWH is insulin resistant. He foundered really bad in 2012. I don't have any place to build a dry lot without pouring several thousand dollars into it, so I had to shorten his pasture time. Once his insulin stabilize, the shorter pasture time allows him to go outside without a grazing muzzle.

My elder Tennessee Walker also had metabolic issues, although that isn't what I lost him to.

My third TWH is 23 and also a very easy keeper. Better safe than sorry, so I keep his pasture time limited.

The only reason I commented on their ages is because it's a good thing they are older. spending more time in the barn isn't as big a deal to them, as it would be if I had to deal with metabolic issues in younger horses:)

Believe me, I don't like it. I have 24 acres of lush rolling pasture going to near waste. My First set of Keeper Horses before this crew ran on almost 100 acres, amongst the family beef cattle. They ran in/out of the barn as they pleased, all year long. They lived long lives without any metabolic issues.

A Good Horseman Doesn't Have To Tell Anyone; The Horse Already Knows.

I CAN'T ride 'em n slide 'em. I HAVE to lead 'em n feed 'em Thnx cowchick77.
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post #5 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 02:41 PM
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I buy my pelleted bedding by the pallet (50 40lb bags) at roughly $200/pallet. A pallet will last about a month if it's not too rainy. If rainy, like this spring, I used a pallet every 2 weeks because we were getting so much rain that the barn was flooded (first time EVER that happened). I use 2 bags of pellets/stall for horses that only come in to eat and/or at night in poor weather. If they are stalled for days on end, I use 5 bags/stall and it will last a month if the stall doesn't flood, just add about 1 bag per week.

I wet the pellets down in the bag. You need to wet them down because they don't fluff as well if you just put down pellets and wait for the horse to pee. Plus, think about walking into a stall bedded in BBs......wouldn't want to sleep on those either. If you dampen them in the bag, they break up and come out nice and fluffy. Poke a hole with a rake handle and put water in the bag until it comes out the small little holes that always seem to be poked in the bags, let sit for 15-30 mins (usually while I do another chore like lay feed and fresh water) then I open the bags all the way and dump them out in the stall. LOTS of nice, fresh smelling bedding and I spread it a little bit but mostly let the horses push it where they want it. It clumps nicely when wet, makes removing pee spots very easy, is very fine so falls through the tines of your manure fork easily and I find much easier to clean than shavings. They are more expensive than shavings in bulk, but I don't find them as dusty (even the triple cleaned Racetrack shavings were much more dusty) and I think they're easier to work with. You do have to stay on top of cleaning to make them last, we do 2X/day if the horses are in.

You'll need water buckets, hay feeders, grain tubs, and trash cans to store your grain & salt in. I buy the metal ones, keeps rodents out. They chew right throught the bottoms of the plastic cans. You'll need a grooming tote with brushes, combs, curries and any sprays for each horse.

Depending on where you're going in Utah, you may need to blanket, it gets really cold and snowy and at least for the first year your horses probably will want something more. I blanket here in OK and I know in Utah, I'd still have to blanket.

Brand Inspection is actually a lot less than you think. You need a way to prove you own all of your horses. Once you get to Utah, call the Brand Inspector for your county to have them come out and inspect and give you either an inspection card or lifetime travel permit. Here's a link to their site: Utah Department of Agriculture and Food - Horse Brand Inspection (Horses & All Other Equidae)
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post #6 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you both, walkinthewalk & Dreamcatcher Arabians
the stable supply advice is infinitely helpful.

Unfortunately the location we're looking at currently doesn't have any runs or paddocks available ( they're all leased out ) so the horses will be stalled all the time unless we have them out with us in the round pen (no more than 30 minutes per horse) or in the arena (if the arena's are available for open riding and no one else is riding. My foal and the yearling are still learning to be handled although the yearling's much further along and calmer about it) so everyone's going to be stuck in stalls for a serious portion of their day's/night's until I can get my hands on one of the paddocks or runs to let them out in. It's not a problem for my mare who's been there-done that and doesn't care as long as she gets to see everyone and everything around her, but the younger two are going to be an adventure for sure!

The stalls are outdoor so I'll have to check on the weather and all and see what we're looking at. I'm trying to budget everything so we know what we absolutely must buy now versus later. (like blankets, they can be picked up later for everyone). But we'll for sure need winter blankets for them. We're going to SLC and as far as I know it gets rather cold there.

--

I think I have to get Brand Inspection done prior to getting to Utah though, I have to have it (I think, they said I had to but IDK if just breed registration paperwork with my name on them will work for them) before unloading at the boarding location and right now we're looking at having the horses shipped up because we don't own a truck/trailer at the moment. We may end up with one before we go, or at least a trailer and lease a truck to make life easier, but we're not 100% sure about that just yet. I'll be giving them a call monday to find out for sure what all I'll need. Thank you so much for the link to the Utah BI website I greatly appreciate it!
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post #7 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amariah View Post
-

I think I have to get Brand Inspection done prior to getting to Utah though, I have to have it (I think, they said I had to but IDK if just breed registration paperwork with my name on them will work for them) before unloading at the boarding location and right now we're looking at having the horses shipped up because we don't own a truck/trailer at the moment. We may end up with one before we go, or at least a trailer and lease a truck to make life easier, but we're not 100% sure about that just yet. I'll be giving them a call monday to find out for sure what all I'll need. Thank you so much for the link to the Utah BI website I greatly appreciate it!
Brand inspections (in my limited experience AZ & Co) are done after you move to the state when it's a new inspection. OK doesn't have Brand Inspection requirements, all you need here are a current Coggins. To cross state borders you need a Coggins & 30 day Health Certificate (cheap and quick if you're near enough to have it done at OSU). I think you have 10 days at least to get the Brand Inspector out. In busy states or sparsely populated states they give longer. I know in CO it took over a month before the inspector got out to see my friend's horses. It's not a huge deal, really. You stop at the Ag Inspection station going into UT and take your paperwork in (the place where they weigh the trucks and check loads) and they'll look at your paperwork and stamp it. I've been to some states (AZ, NM, CA) where they come out and actually physically match the horses to the paperwork, but that's more unusual than usual. In CO, they took the paperwork, looked it over for dates and stamped it and sent me on my way.

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post #8 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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hmmmm, well we currently are in the NE corner of Oklahoma so we are near enough to OSU to take them in and have that done for two of them. I'll talk with my wife and see when we can get that arranged. The other is way out in OKC |D

thank you for the information. I greatly appreciate it. I wasn't really sure what I'd need to be expecting with this so that helps a lot. <3
I do have a vet scheduled to give the coggins to the two I've got up here with me, they'll be out this week and, if I can get my schedule to cooperate, I'll be up with them so I can ask them questions while I'm at it. Kinda had to get the coggins anyway. The breeder's a hop, skip and a jump over state lines from OK LOL
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post #9 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amariah View Post
hmmmm, well we currently are in the NE corner of Oklahoma so we are near enough to OSU to take them in and have that done for two of them. I'll talk with my wife and see when we can get that arranged. The other is way out in OKC |D

thank you for the information. I greatly appreciate it. I wasn't really sure what I'd need to be expecting with this so that helps a lot. <3
I do have a vet scheduled to give the coggins to the two I've got up here with me, they'll be out this week and, if I can get my schedule to cooperate, I'll be up with them so I can ask them questions while I'm at it. Kinda had to get the coggins anyway. The breeder's a hop, skip and a jump over state lines from OK LOL
You'll need a 30 day Health Certificate too. Are you moving within the next 30 days? If the vet is coming out anyhow, you may as well have him do everything. It takes about 2 days at OSU to get the Cert back but then they'd have to mail it to you. Not sure how long it takes a private vet.

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post #10 of 21 Old 06-09-2017, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, yeah, within the next 30 days. I'll talk to the vet when they come out then. They'd probably bundle the paperwork together with the coggins and that takes around a week with the vet's I've experienced.
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