From the photos, I'd say too wide. You should be able to get 3 stacked fingers between the withers and saddle.
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I agree it looks wide.
Wide on the front but I think the back might be OK (from what I can see - more of the horse’s back would make it easier to see)
Would a saddle pad and or half pad help?From the photos, I'd say too wide. You should be able to get 3 stacked fingers between the withers and saddle.
I'm not sure. A saddle pad wouldn't really do anything, a half pad might, but I don't know. Someone with more experience might.Would a saddle pad and or half pad help?
If it's too wide a shimmable half pad that you add shims to the front may work. Looks off to me and twisted. Can't tell if horse or photo.
The photos are not very good.
It seems the front of the saddle is sitting down too much which would indicate the bars are too wide.
Maybe a shim or pad would work, maybe, but again, it's hard to tell much of anything with the photos provided.
It seems the front of the saddle is sitting down too much which would indicate the bars are too wide.
Maybe a shim or pad would work, maybe, but again, it's hard to tell much of anything with the photos provided.
I agree with QtrBel on shimming the front. I think the horse may not be standing straight (note neck position) plus the camera angle is not aligned with the back of the saddle making the back look off.
Sorry about the angle! We have very uneven land. I think I will see if I can get a half pad to see if I can get it to fit comfortably. The back seems fine to me it’s just the front, y’all aright about it being wide...
could you have someone help you so that you can get a photo of you mounted in it, (NO pad under saddle) to see how far down the front goes, to see if it's actaully resting on the whither bone. Also, try tapping the front, like a sort of karate chop, to see if it wants to move back a bit. It might be functional as a fit. It looks like an adjustable type saddle, like Wintec, so you might be able to get a different front. But, the angle of the front looks good, just a tad wide. I think with a half pad it would be usable.
This looks like it's sitting pommel-low and over to the right.
The low front balance may be because the tree is too wide or the tree is the right width but the panel needs adjusting to suit the horse's shape - that's why QtrBel suggested a shimmed pad because half pads tend to just lift the whole saddle without affecting the balance, which is not what you want. The offside pic suggests the horse has hollows behind the shoulders and the first pic from the nearside suggests this is the less hollow side, so the saddle is thrown over the opposite way. If you use a shim pad you'd need extra on the offside to counteract the bigger nearside shoulder, but how much more will depend on both the horse's shape and the density of the foam shim pads, so it's a bit trial and error.
I would take a wither template and try this against the front of the saddle which will show you how the horse's width compares with the saddle tree. If they match then it's a panel issue; if the tree shape is wider than the template, and the saddle is a fixed width, then it's a new saddle.
The other thing to consider is whether the tree arch is failing, a common problem with synthetics which have been made abroad. You should be able to try compressing or stretching the arch, which may give you an idea if this is the case.
PS. If if it says 'Rhinegold' on the keeper and the headnail has a double-headed eagle, I'd suspect a failing arch.
The low front balance may be because the tree is too wide or the tree is the right width but the panel needs adjusting to suit the horse's shape - that's why QtrBel suggested a shimmed pad because half pads tend to just lift the whole saddle without affecting the balance, which is not what you want. The offside pic suggests the horse has hollows behind the shoulders and the first pic from the nearside suggests this is the less hollow side, so the saddle is thrown over the opposite way. If you use a shim pad you'd need extra on the offside to counteract the bigger nearside shoulder, but how much more will depend on both the horse's shape and the density of the foam shim pads, so it's a bit trial and error.
I would take a wither template and try this against the front of the saddle which will show you how the horse's width compares with the saddle tree. If they match then it's a panel issue; if the tree shape is wider than the template, and the saddle is a fixed width, then it's a new saddle.
The other thing to consider is whether the tree arch is failing, a common problem with synthetics which have been made abroad. You should be able to try compressing or stretching the arch, which may give you an idea if this is the case.
PS. If if it says 'Rhinegold' on the keeper and the headnail has a double-headed eagle, I'd suspect a failing arch.
Interesting... I don’t know very much about saddle fitting, so that is something I’m going to need to learn more of. So you would suggest getting a shimmed pad rather than a half pad? Do you know what kind of shimmed pad would be best?This looks like it's sitting pommel-low and over to the right.
The low front balance may be because the tree is too wide or the tree is the right width but the panel needs adjusting to suit the horse's shape - that's why QtrBel suggested a shimmed pad because half pads tend to just lift the whole saddle without affecting the balance, which is not what you want. The offside pic suggests the horse has hollows behind the shoulders and the first pic from the nearside suggests this is the less hollow side, so the saddle is thrown over the opposite way. If you use a shim pad you'd need extra on the offside to counteract the bigger nearside shoulder, but how much more will depend on both the horse's shape and the density of the foam shim pads, so it's a bit trial and error.
I would take a wither template and try this against the front of the saddle which will show you how the horse's width compares with the saddle tree. If they match then it's a panel issue; if the tree shape is wider than the template, and the saddle is a fixed width, then it's a new saddle.
The other thing to consider is whether the tree arch is failing, a common problem with synthetics which have been made abroad. You should be able to try compressing or stretching the arch, which may give you an idea if this is the case.
PS. If if it says 'Rhinegold' on the keeper and the headnail has a double-headed eagle, I'd suspect a failing arch.
I'd check the width first - it's always best to do the basics before spending money! Not sure what shimmable pads are available over there but personally I'd use Prolite for preference. You'll actually get 2-in-1 with these - take the shims out and you have a good half-pad, though it's not as pretty as sheepskin.Interesting... I don’t know very much about saddle fitting, so that is something I’m going to need to learn more of. So you would suggest getting a shimmed pad rather than a half pad? Do you know what kind of shimmed pad would be best?
Can somebody give me advice on if this fits or not? View attachment 1140202
Does this saddle fit? View attachment 1140200
The points of the tree (the bottom nail head and the fall down staple) go through the points of the tree. You have the saddle too far forward and as the horse moves his shoulders left/right, left right under the points of the tree the saddle will shift left/right, left/right also. The rider does not feel this as they are in motion with the horse. The placement is the cause of many a girth rub also as the girth acts like a see saw. Move the saddle back until the scapula moves freely ahead of the tree points. The rail on this saddle is very straight (pommel to cantle) and making it narrower may take away the panels bearing surface at the stirrup bar. I suggest moving the saddle back, using a good saddle pad and a half pad to help clear the wither (although moving the saddle back will help with this too). Use the first and second billets as the third billet provides forward drag and all saddles will end up over the girth.
Lynnda
Classic Saddlery
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