View attachment 1136185
This though if you are going to show and braid
is to thick. It might be to long too...my gut feeling is is it is to thick & long to make nice hunter braids.
They are going to be to thick in appearance and the classes you refer to compete in
are very based on appearances....
If you really get into the showing your "trainer/instructor" should also know there is a designated number of braids and when and where that number is tweaked...not sure anymore but it used to be in the actual rule books this kind of information.
Few un-rated local shows do appointment classes for hunters and this
is where strict follow this rule is a must...
If you plan to do "model" classes the braids may be a must too...
Real grooms, those who prepare animals professionally know those small things that good judges with some experience on them also know...
I prefer to use mane matching colored yarn, some match riders jacket color...so a black mane would have black yarn or thread like button thread but using yarn can help to lay the braid flat and hold it because it is just thicker.
I did thread for the top rated shows and never did I rubberband. I would braid down, cover with a neck sleazy and come in early in the morning to pull the braids up and secure them and return the sleazy so no bits of hay would gather in the mane and be needed picked out. Tweezers, embroidery scissor or seam ripper was part of my braiding kit...
There is also a knack to clipping, where and how to emphasize the horses good and hide the undesirable better...
So....
Most horses have 2 areas of real sensitivity...the poll and at the wither.
Both are areas you as the owner can desensitize by routinely just pulling his mane randomly anywhere and everywhere.
If you pull after exercise when he is warm, just a few hairs at a time they can release a heck of a lot easier than large clumps and dragging his mane crest to the floor kind of thing.
I actually don't need a pulling comb but just used my fingers which were calloused and real strong a grip and popped loose a few hairs at a time and the horses did not react nor object. Bad experiences from those who not devote the time and tried to rush or cut corners is what makes a reactive animal imo.
If you are going to scissor a mane, use any thinning blades or razor straight edge you can do a heck of a botch job in one hack....so be really careful.
Always use any blade from the underneath side never apply pressure from top down.
View attachment 1136227
Your mane actually has a boxy look to it because it is so thick....
The top example is what you have...the bottom is what you need to truly have nice hunter braids.
View attachment 1136199
I myself did hunter braids or button braids never the pretty running braid varieties seen today on many.... I have no experience in that.
Tails, understand how to pull a tail top and what to do to the bottom of a tail and with appropriate length to complement your horse...it
does make a difference. If you know how to really french braid you're well on the way to tail braiding... You are actually looking for a "fish-tail braid" think it is called and that specific because it will lay flatter to the horses butt, but also allow the animal to arch its tail in movement and show off the beauty of motion and movement the hunter horse is known for.
Practice, practice and more practice starting months ahead of time of showing if you are going to prepare your horse for the hunter ring...it makes a difference!
View attachment 1136202
This is the danger of using a scissor or blade of any type....do be very careful cause in one swipe you can have a nightmare looking back at you...
Sadly, in my years of working in the barns I saw to many do this then cry...
This is barely able to be saved...the shortest part is on the edge of to short and still to thick to hold a nice braid.
These are hunter braids and as evidenced in the picture with reins seen, laced reins are used in the hunter ring.
The third picture is button braids, something I did occasionally and most often on the ponies of various heights.
View attachment 1136204
View attachment 1136225
View attachment 1136214
Start now to thin that mane if your plan is to really show, compete come spring and practice braiding during the winter...put them in and take them out as some horses rub braids and remove hunks of mane at the same time...not good.
30 - 40/45 braids is what you want for the hunter ring depending upon what best suits and complements the horses build, length of neck. Braids start with the width of it being about 1 1/2" - 2" wide depending on how thick that mane is..hence all this is so important.
Your horse
is a Thoroughbred and that in itself dictates some of what is expected in and for the show ring in appearance of the animal.
If you take the time to do the mane maintenance now it is very easy to maintain with just a few minutes a week spent...
Otherwise, it is that 2 day minimum job you faced and will again in a few months time of doing nothing.
If you are just doing "local" you might not need to braid, but...for me...I would rather go to a show being a bit over the top than the one not having done and look very out of place.

The higher and better the competition the better the turnout of horse and rider is needed....
If your plan is to do a show circuit hoping for year end accolades, it matters... truth and fact.

Research and more research, then apply what you learn with someone who truly knows what they are doing supervising so it not get messed up. That is how I learned....

🐴...