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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have a saddle that fits Dozer quite nicely, but it's an english and I'm just not comfortable or secure riding in it.

I borrowed a Northern River Cross Breed Poley from a friend today and gave it a try. It fit pretty **** well in my opinion! Dozer moved lovely and free, stepped out really nice in the front. My mother and I both felt wonderful and secure, and we worked him rather hard to get a good sweat up.

Now, looking back at the photos of his back after the ride, the sweat looks uneven, when in person it was pretty darn close to perfect. The only dry spot was his spine. Considering there was no soreness, I'm fairly sure it was the pad going up into the channel of the saddle and rubbing. I'm pretty sure that with a pad with a) a wither cut out and b) less padding over the spine, the fit would be a lot better. I know I've seen pads that only have a thin bit of material/rubber/whatever it is over the spine.

Now for photos. They're not the best; I wasn't planning on posting here and was only going to use them for personal reference.

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Horse Mammal Mane Mare Sorrel


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Does it look like it would fit okay with the pad I mentioned? Like I said, there's no signs of pain whatsoever and considering my stock saddle had perfect sweat marks with pain, I'm impressed!
 

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It looks like the saddle is slightly bridging to me. There seems to be contact in the front and back of the saddle but not in the middle.
 
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Swinging Fenders/Halfbreeds have a western tree, so you need to make sure your saddle blanket supplies adequate padding, a lot of the ones sold in Australia are pretty dodgy, just make sure that when compressed it still offers protection. I can't really see your pad so this isn't really specific to you just general advice. If he has a protruding back you need to look at something that's probably shaped without padding around the spine to give it some space, as you said. I'd look for something sort of "stiffer". I have a 5 Star Pad and it's excellent.

Another thing is that just looking at the shape of his back without even seeing the saddle I'd hazard a guess that very few halfbreed/swinging fenders are going to fit his shape well. They are designed for a sort of flatter, broader back. On him I'd think they would bridge. The sweat patterns could indicate that as well, but I know they're hard to see online.

Also, you need to make sure that it's not too long for his back. In the first picture it looks okay, but the sweat marks seem to go too far back.

Have you looked at it without the pad and see how the panels contact his back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys :) I'll get some photos of it today without the pad.

The pad is my friend's as well; it's probably around an inch+ thick and wool. Fairly new so still fairly firm.

I'm going to try it with the saddle slightly further back today, because his girth isn't usually that far forward. I know the rigging is different, but thought it was something to try. I struggled to 'wriggle' the saddle back yesterday because of the pad, so just had to take a guess about where it sat.

I had a feeling I might have trouble with the shape of his back :/ that being said, I've had trouble with other saddles too, that pushed too hard on the area where this one seems to bridge and caused pain.

As for the sweat marks, my horse is a terrible sweater and often sweats more from the saddle blanket than the saddle itself. He also tends to sweat more on his left than his right. I will check where the saddle ends though; am I right that, for western/fender saddles that it's the back of the cantle that shouldn't go past the last rib?
 

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I'll be interested in seeing the other photos. from a quick glance, the fit does not look bad, at least in as much as the angle it sits is good. but bridging can only be really felt by running your hand under, and if there is no rocker at all in the saddle when you do a fore/aft rocker on it.

the pad does not look like a real wool one, but rahter a fake fleece one. basic style, though I could be wrong since I cna't see it all that well.

you can shim out the middle area a bit, to reduce/eliminate the bridging affect. some western pads will have areas for shims, or if the don't, you can make your own out of felt and just velcro it right to the saddle underside.

i lke that saddle. I wouldn't mind such a saddle myself.
 

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Its the back of the tree that shouldn't go past, and in halfbreed that is usually around the length of the skirt. You can feel it, basically where it's solid it shouldn't go too far back.

Its debatable how much of a problem this is. Many people have ones that go slightly past the last rib and its okay, but your sweat patterns look a lot longer.

Saddle fitting is hard and your horse doesn't look easy.

There are so many aspects to saddle fit, even on a saddle with the right curvature if it was too narrow in part of the saddle that could result in pinching and pain.

You shouldn't move the saddle because of the girth position. The saddle has it's "sweet spot" regardless of the girth. Some girth points are further forward, others are further back. Moving the saddle to move the girth is only going to end up in a poorly fitting saddle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unfortunately I didn't get out today - had to wait forever for my doctors appointment so ended up having to send dad out to feed since I wouldn't be home til dark. But, I will definitely get it done! My friend doesn't need the saddle back until Sunday, thankfully.

Tinylily, I could be wrong about the pad. My friend was talking about hers and her daughters, one was real one wasn't. I could have them mixed up! So shimming would be enough if there is only a minor bridge? Because I really like this saddle and it's in my price range xD

Thanks for that Saskia, I did a quick google and I could only really find western information, that said the base/back of the cantle. He's definitely not an easy fit -.- It would be a lot easier if he had a decent topline, but I'm really struggling (especially when he'd been going lame on and off for months!). I'm got his lameness under control, and am now focussing on the saddle situation! The main reason I was going to move the saddle was based on what it does when I try it without the pad. Maybe I'm just used to how far back the english saddle settles on his back xD

Did just find another photo that could be helpful - just don't tell my mother that her but is on the internet! xD I definitely think it would be too far over the rib if I moved it back by looking at this... Considering I always swore my horse has a long back, this doesn't look promising :/ I'm trying to visualise where his rib is, but just can't quite get it. Either way, I think it might be too long.

Horse Horse supplies Mane Snout Horse tack
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I took a bunch more photos today and did a couple of experiments.

I sat the saddle on his back, no pads. Seems maybe a little too big for him. Ran my hand under the panels, it felt pretty even. Got my dressage crop and tried to slide it through the channel, hit the back of his wither and couldn't get through. Shuffled the saddle sliiightly back, could just get it through. Put the pad on, couldn't get through. Grabbed my english riser pad, got the crop through.

So, following on with my thought that a pad with no padding over the spine might help, I grabbed two english pads, folded in half, and roughly placed them either side of his spine. Apart from looking ridiculous, it gave him great clearance. 2/3 fingers over his wither, and I could actually see daylight. For some reason, I didn't think to get a photo form any angle other than the front.

I put the western pad back on and went for a little ride. Dozer wasn't himself today so it was only enough for a 'light' sweat. I got a beauuuutiful short trot out of him though.

Today I turned him when taking the sweat photos so that they were in the same light. Still seems to be a sign of bridging.

Oh! And if I got it right, the back of the saddle goes JUST past his lst rib. As in, maybe a centimetre. It also felt to me that the tree ended around 2/3 centimetres from the end of the saddle.

Forgive me for some of these photos being blurry. I couldn't see what I was doing hehe.


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^^ this is with the english pads

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What I've done to improve fit temporarily is to use thick foam blocks, trimmed to a thin edge. Since the foam compresses under weight, with one horse I doubled up the blocks. Each was 4" thick. When compressed it filled in the shallow area and no more bridging. If you have foam or a fabric store might, it's worth a try. The firmer foam is better.
 

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here's my take:

the saddle is not a great fit, but not horrible, and it's a nice saddle, so some shimming work might make it work. you'l know if after a few rides he starts getting sour about it.

this photo:



shows that it is pushing down a bit on his shoulders. I think this is becuase there is not as much curve (like a banana) to the shape of the tree as would be optima. but, with light shimming in the middle you may be able to fill in the middle area and take a bit of pressure off the sholder area. try something as simple as folding a thin towel in such a manner as to taper the edge ( so the fold is thinner on the edge, thicker in the middle. done by doing a zig-zag fold) . place that in the area from behind the polley to the beginning of the cantle edge. put this on top of a good pad, between the pad and the saddle. I would guess that something that compresses to no more than about a half inch will be sufficient. you want enough, but not too much.

my experience with the thick foam, shaved to taper the edges, was that thought it compressed, it also would expand as the horse moved, and thus would amplify the rocking movement and make it feel like you were riding a camel.

I now use industrial felt to make shims . it's about a half inch thick, and I can use a razor blade to carve and taper the edges.

a good western pad with a cut out spine clearance will help, too.

also, try moving it a half inch forward.
 

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It doesn't fit too badly regarding length or width, with a thick pad you should have enough clearance. The only problem is the bridging, which if you compare the shape of the saddle to the shape of his back must be happening.

You can get some pads that you can add shims too which might be a good bet. I once had a too wide western I was fitting to a horse and after I looked around and compared the shim pads I ended up with a Cavallo pad with a built up wither area. I'm not usually into buying the trainers marketing things but from what I could see if seemed to be the best on the market. They also make a bridge. I got mine from a saddlery that somewhat focused on western, but they were also a Saddleworld so if you have one close by you could probably order it, or get it online. When I sold my horse I ended up reselling the pad on with very little loss.

A tradition stock would probably fit better, or even a stock saddle with tradition padding and swinging fenders (Syd Hill and Wintec/Bates both have versions) because of a curvier tree. It just depends on how much you like the Northern Rivers, some people like them, others don't, they're not high end saddle, but that doesn't matter if it works for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys :) Your input has been great

The saddle went back yesterday with much thanks. I'm SO glad I was able to try it on him. It's definitely on the list of possible saddles, though I've gotta get some more cash built up before I do anything (selling my two spare saddles will help!).

I'm also hoping that, over the next month or however long it takes me to get the money up, he might build some more muscle. We're able to ride him most days now which is brilliant, because it means consistent work! If I can get the muscle up, I'm presuming it will change the fit in a positive way, aka building his topline and getting the saddle up off his spine more.

I do have a stock saddle that fits him, but it causes pain. When I ride in it, he gets slow, short and clumsy, and ends up very sore from mid back back. Not sure if it's that the padding is too hard, but something is definitely not right. I know that the 'western' style is supposed to distribute weight better and, considering I'm definitely a plus size rider, I figured it was worth a try. I'm not against getting another stock saddle (preferably with fenders, because I've fallen in love with how secure they make me feel), but I am a little hesitant because I don't know exactly why the stock saddle makes him uncomfortable.

In the meantime, it's back to my english saddle, which is gonna be weeeird.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just thought of a quick question - Northern River saddles are known to have a fairly narrow gullet. In that sense, I need to make sure any other saddles I consider are the same width, if not a little narrower than this one, right?
 

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Myna Cryderman, a world renowned endurance rider/coach, makes her own pads and shims because she has to monitor her horse's sweat pattern closely. She uses good upholstery fabric on top and sew shim pockets in to these. Then armed with a variety of shims she can adjust for a good fit. Because horses change shape with conditioning and ageing, what works this year may need a bit of adjusting next year. You aren't going to find a saddle to fit this horse and I think you need to invest in making or getting someone to make a pad similar to what Myna uses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Went to Horseland today and checked out some 'higher end' saddles. I've been thinking about investing in a Wintec for the adjustable gullet, so figured I'd better make sure I like them first!

They didn't have the swinging fender in stock so that was a shame, but I did try the Wintec Pro Stock, Wintec Pro Endurance and Syd Hill Half Breed.

None of them felt quite as nice as the Northern River IMO, though the security of the Endurance was incredible! As a result, I'm still not sure what to do. Even if they did have the Wintec fender in stock, it doesn't come in an Extra Large, which I would need. So, for now, I'm going to do some hunting for a saddle pad that would suit Dozer in the Northern River. If I find one, I might go ahead and buy the saddle. If I can lose some more weight and fit into the Wintec Fender, and I can find one to try, I might make the investment purely for the fact that I can/should fit it to multiple horses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Decided to do a Google search for pads that might fit with the Northern River, but so much of the terminology is confusing me X.X

Was hoping you guys could tell me if I'm going in the right direction with any of these. Some of these might not even be available in Australia, but I just need to know if I'm on the right track!

Just a reminder - I'm looking for a saddle with less/no padding over the spine, and one that may help with the bridging issue. Like I said, I don't understand much of the lingo, but all of these were recommended for high-withered/sway-backed horses.

Professional's Choice SMx Air Ride Orthosport Saddle Pad ARSP30 Fleece Bottom 30"L x 32"D
Reinsman Contour Swayback Tacky Saddle Pad 32"L x 32"D 447t
Reinsman Contour Swayback Saddle Pad 32"L x 32"D 447
Reinsman Contour Swayback Tacky Too Saddle Pad 30"L x 30"D 442t
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These ones ARE in Australia:
Cavallo Western Saddle Pad Regular Size - Online Saddlery Australia
Diamon Wool Pad
SMX AIR RIDE ORTHOSPORT SADDLE PAD BLACK
Saddlecloths :: STC Superior Felt Saddle Pad - Goodwoods Saddlery
SX3016056800 - STC Airflow Saddle Pad | Saddlery Online, Equestrian Supplies, Equine Supplies
https://www.kentsaddlery.com.au/products/saddle-blankets/saddle-pad-koda-felt-with-leather-chambers
 

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The Large Wintec Swinging fender is quite large. Closer to the english equivalent of 18 inches. Which Syd Hill did you try, the sort of plastic-y swinging fenders around $600ish, or the leather ones around $1000+?

This is what I'd recommend I guess, I haven't used the bridge pad only the built up one
Cavallo Western Bridge Pad - Online Saddlery Australia

I had a quick google they sell it here about $100 cheaper and still in Aus. Cavallo Western Bridge Horse Saddle Pad [#D3001]

The thing with the saddle pad is you don't just want padding, you want it thicker here his back dips in (if ít's not making even contact).

If you're looking for one with just padding you can't go past 5 Star saddle pads. They are excellent.
 
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