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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I expected this problem. My truck sits really high and the trailer sits at a normal height. So there has to be some way to bridge the gap. I have two possible solutions.
  1. The hitch on the trailer is somewhat adjustable. I don't think it would adjust all the way to make up for the truck height, so I'd still need a drop hitch on the truck, but it wouldn't have to be as big of a drop.
  2. A big drop hitch. This is what the hitch place put on, at least for now. Then just leave the trailer hitch in the middle of the adjustment height, where it is now.
Assuming the weight capacity of the drop hitch is sufficient, is either of these options better or worse? Especially in terms of safety.
 

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I have no idea which is safer. Just look at weight capacity of the hitch and make sure it matches your trailer weight. I had a difficult time getting my trailer level. I have a 2 inch drop ball, and that seems pretty standard. My trailer is still slightly angled down in the front. But it's only about 1/4 inch off and I'm not certain they sell hitches that would be a better match?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I did think about the capacity of the drop. I meant to post that in my original post. I examined it from every angle and couldn't find anything written on it. I'm not too worried about it at the moment, since the trailer empty is less than 4,000 pounds and this is a professional place that surely wouldn't have put a drop rated less than 5,000 pounds on a hitch designed to pull up to 10,000 pounds. But I will be asking them when I go back (I'm going to take the trailer back to them to level). Obviously if the drop is rated for less than 10,000 pounds it would not be the better option.
 

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If they are both clearly rated for the load, I don't see it makes much difference. Other than say you had another trailer that worked with the pickup height, then I'd use the adjustable trailer hitch so I could hook up to either without changes.

And I suppose you know the trailer is best being a little lower in the front than in the back. If the front is higher, that removes weight from the rear truck tires during hard braking which can contribute to a jack knife. When the front is lower, hard braking applies additional weight to the rear truck tires. Weight transfer during braking.
 

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Make sure your professional trailer installation center for hitches does your adjustments.
Your trailer should not sit "level" empty but sit nose higher, and sit level when loaded.
Make sure you take those bars for weight distribution with you if you decided to get that hitch as that will make a enormous difference in set-up.

I can not fathom you purchasing your equipment from a reputable hitch & trailer dealer they would not sell you components that equal and compliment each other and the task at hand = safety.

You also need to know how to adjust your trailer brakes for riding empty, partially loaded, fully loaded and how to engage emergent controls if you have a catastrophic failure of your braking system.
Today's trucks do much of the work for you with the computers on board, but...human over-ride, knowledge and understanding how to engage and disengage a system is a must so you are safest traveling roads near and far with your horses or whatever you think to use that trailer for.
Do ask all the questions though so you fully understand. Make a list and ask every single question and write the answer down beside have the rep show you hand-on how to-do...
🐴...
 

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My 3/4 ton truck sits high because it’s on one ton cargo van leaf springs (all the way around). It also has big oversized tires.

I had a custom hitch welded to the frame when I bought the truck in 1981.

My trailer sits level, which is what you want - a level trailer, especially when you move out of Texas. You do not want your horses doing the Boston Lean for several hours on the road:)

Edited to add: @horselovinguy I guess things have changed a lot since the old day. My trailer sits level behind my truck regardless of whether it’s empty or has four horses in it.

I have come out of a lumber mill loaded with fire wood up over the roof of my truck and never sat it down on its helpers. If I ever hit the stupid big lottery Mehbee I don’t want a new F-450 after all——-
 

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Looks like the hitch I have that used with my old truck, which makes yours look like a shorty, had a lift kit. It will be just fine.
 
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Seems I'm out voted but I'd still like to point out that anytime the brakes are applied on a vehicle, the front of the vehicle goes down a bit with the rear coming up a bit with weight on the rear being reduced. This is the reason for the advice I've always gone by to have the front of the trailer a tad lower to hopefully keep the front of the trailer from being high during hard braking. But certainly not so much that the horse or anyone else would notice.

If a truck had computerized suspension that kept it level at all times, which they don't, this would be a moot point.

Sort of like what is said about saddle fit of a horse standing square vs a moving horse.
 
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My trailer sits level, which is what you want - a level trailer, especially when you move out of Texas. You do not want your horses doing the Boston Lean for several hours on the road:)

Edited to add: @horselovinguy I guess things have changed a lot since the old day. My trailer sits level behind my truck regardless of whether it’s empty or has four horses in it.
Oh, please don't misinterpret the amount of nose high I intended meant...a few inches is all, as in 1" - 2" is all.
Walkin your truck it sounds like also has added suspension reinforced so it not give very easily as many trucks today do.
Today many trucks drop the rear and then the level trailer goes nose down which as you know also is not good for the horse to travel at with added stressors to the body.
Just observe them going down the road empty, not-level or a bit tail-high. {Yes trailscout putting more weight to the steering axle is important}
I would not have a 450 truck if given to me...riding in one when not towing is a attack on your kidneys and spine.. 🙄
350/3500 is bad enough...but it is a work vehicle intended and for that must have the suspension and ride to do the job put to it.

AC.... Give the trailer guys a chance to do their job seeing your truck and reading the specs on it.
They if you allow will make the choices for you to keep you safe and legal on the road.
They know their job and how to do it.
Now they just need to teach you how to do it so if your weight load changes in large amounts you know how to make the compensation correctly.

🐴... jmo...
 

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HLG, my truck does have some really beefed up suspension. It also has some pretty good oversized tires so my old truck is probably one of a few that also never nosed down, when I put the brakes on. I learned at a young age not to ram on the brakes of anything in an Emergency.

I doubt if now is a good time to say I had the rear driver side tire blow, going 70 MPH in the fastest lane on the OK City By-Pass at rush hour - headed to the layover:eek: This was in September, 2003 during the move from SoCal to Middle Tennessee for retirement. I was 56 by the. — too old for this much excitement, lollol

I was down on that big rim in 30 seconds or less. There were two big Ryder trucks and DH in his dually pulling the car trailer. We all had CB’s which was a LOT better than cell phones in this instance.

They blocked all the lanes so me and the Divine Help holding the steering wheel could move right and get on the berm. Divine Help is the only way I know that I controlled my truck.

FWIW, I did not have sway bars and my horse trailer never once swayed out of control, my blessed horses stayed quiet, and the trailer followed the truck perfectly.

Rusty started to get anxious after we stopped and all the traffic was whizzing by us at Mach 80 but Duke & Streeter stayed perfectly calm so that helped keep Rusty settled down.

We switched pickup trucks, putting the horse trailer on the dually so I could get the horses to the layover.

And where were the police in all of this? I called them and asked for help but they never came — probably too busy eating donuts — It was a potential life-threatening issue if one thing went wrong switching trucks and cars not paying attention, but they never showed up ——

I have always said that I don’t do a lot right in this life but I am great with horses, and I am a way above average driver. With Divine Help I managed to not flip the trailer and get us all killed, Yet another reason I believe in having plenty of truck to get the job done; I don’t care what the arguments for a “it will get by truck” are. It only takes one time —- that’s why they’re called “accidents” ——
 

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Oh, please don't misinterpret the amount of nose high I intended meant...a few inches is all, as in 1" - 2" is all.
If this doesn't compromise the comfort of the horse, I fail to see how the same amount low would compromise the comfort. And much safer in emergency situations.

Two inches high in emergency braking could easily become 6 inches high which could easily add to a possible jack knife.

Trailer sale folks don't want to go into details that would cause the average customer to become confused, but get them off to the side and they will nod their head at everything I've posted.

Oh well, at least I tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I doubt if now is a good time to say I had the rear driver side tire blow, going 70 MPH in the fastest lane on the OK City By-Pass at rush hour - headed to the layover:eek:
No this is NOT a good time to say it LOL. I'll just pretend I didn't read that...
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I believe in having plenty of truck to get the job done; I don’t care what the arguments for a “it will get by truck” are. It only takes one time —- that’s why they’re called “accidents” ——
Yes! My 250 might not be fun to drive in the city, and I have already learned to clench my teeth a little over bumps so they don't clack together, but the truck is rated to pull 12k pounds and the hitch is rated for 10k, and my trailer fully loaded won't be over 7k. Could I have gotten by with a 150? Maybe, but then I remember how Pony was trapped in the trailer when the truck that was hauling him couldn't get up a steep hill, then slid down and hit a tree. And I know, "As God is my witness, I will never be undertrucked again!"
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ah. But back to my original question -- having a hitch with a greater drop vs having the coupler on the trailer extended to its maximum height -- neither one of those is going to be more or less safe?
 

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Scary stuff walkin....keeping your wits about you and fast reflexes are great "tools" to have.

AC, please let your experts set your trailer as is needed for your truck and trailers needs.
Hands-on is far better than any internet discussion cause one word misplaced or mistook could make what is safe not be.

Your trailer has features that other trailers may not and your set-up of hitch and bars may indeed be different than others have, need, use and tie-together your rig.
You have a brand new trailer with the most UTD features permitted on hitch...
You have a truck with a specific ride height...and they need to marry correctly by professionals who are experts in their trade and certified hitch masters!
Let your experts set your trailers ride height as is needed for your truck and trailers needs.

Best of luck with your new rig...
Don't forget the picture of it connected all clean and shiny with the truck.... ;)
🐴... jmo...
 

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Yes — without a doubt what @horselovinguy said in post #16. Let the pros do it(y)(y)

You’ve spent all this money on new equipment, take that equipment to folks who do this for a living:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright, thanks guys, good advice, I will do that.
 
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