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Planning a horsey trail vacation

5K views 36 replies 12 participants last post by  HnA Tack 
#1 ·
Hey all, I am going to be taking some time next year to go for an extended trail ride and I was wondering if some of you could perhaps point me in the right direction.

I have never done this with a horse before but I AM very well versed at backpacking and hiking solo in the great wide wilderness. I never did learn to use a GPS (not to say I couldn't by the time I leave) but I am a pro at wayfinding using a good ol' fashioned compass and topographical map. I would hopefully be going with someone but on the off chance I can't find a partner I am prepared to go alone. Right now I am still planning the very basics.

We put in our vacations in November so I'll know what time I have off by the end of the year, and that will be a large factor. If I can get a decent week in the summer I will probably try to do Yellowstone or Glacier National Park but if I have to go in the fall or spring I will most likely be headed south to Zion. Also, the northern parks have an abundance of predators so I probably won't do those alone (never ridden in bear country before).

I live in central Montana now and I was hoping to keep the drive to one day if possible, two days maximum. If possible I'd like to stay in an area where I can park the trailer and do several days' worth of day rides from that base. Camping for me is a non-issue - I can sleep in the truck or in a tent or in a hotel as the situation requires, so no worries there. Do any of you know of any areas besides the ones I mentioned that fit my criteria? I'm open to any sort of terrain, though I would like to avoid Nevada if at all possible simply because I used to live there and I'd like to go somewhere I haven't been before.

Also, as I said before, I have never ridden in bear country - what precautions do I need to take? I have been scouring the NPS website in case I go to Yellowstone or Glacier and they have some great tips but everything is geared more toward biking and backpacking than horseback riding. Are there any horse-specific things that you guys do? Should I train Dreams to do something or not do something in preparation? Will a bear (not counting a sow with cubs, in which case you're usually screwed) tend to avoid a horse and rider, or investigate? How about wolves? I'd really hate to run into a pack of those at Yellowstone. Anyone have any ideas about that?

The main reason I'd like to have a "base camp" is because I'm hesitant about having to pack in food for the horses. Depending on the time of year there will be plenty of grass, but I've never gone horse camping so I don't know how it's all done. Dreams is hobble broke, and Thunder is too on the off chance I'd need him to pack stuff, and I'd also be comfortable with packing a portable hot fence or high lining them or even picketing - I am confident they'd be there the next day in any of those cases. Is that sort of packing the type of thing that is better done with someone who has experience or would a reasonably intelligent, rational person be able to figure it all out? I would do my research, if it came to that.

I appreciate any insight, tips, etc that any of you can give me. I'd also be willing to get a group put together if any of you are into that.

Thanks!

-- Kai
 
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#3 ·
Here is a link to a thread about horse camping in Yellowstone from 2011.
https://www.horseforum.com/trail-riding/horse-camping-near-yellowstone-78486/

I wouldn't be brave enough to ride in Yellowstone unless it was with a guided trail string, someone who did it all the time. We've hiked outside the gates but still inside the park and saw lots of bear sign and where a big bear had been lying down not long before. It was nerve-wracking and we made a lot of noise. I wouldn't want to do it again without a gun, but it is illegal to carry them in the park.

Inside the gates, there are so many elk and bison that we had to detour several times off our hiking paths to be safe.
I think I'd feel safer riding in Glacier, because the animals are less used to people and more likely to stay out of your way.
 
#4 ·
@tinyliny If I go on a solo ride it would be south, to Zion or somewhere around there. That's my neck of the woods, so to speak - I grew up in that country. There isn't much in the way of predators down there except for the big kitties and the VERY rare black bear but the chances of coming across one of those is exceedingly minute. I'm not worried at all about solo trail riding down there - I did it for 10 years growing up. Yellowstone/Glacier would be a different matter entirely …. like I said, I wouldn't do those alone. Waaaaay more bears, packs of wolves, etc to deal with, and I wouldn't care to come across a bison on my own either.
@gottatrot I also think I'd prefer Glacier, mostly because I've never been there before, but the "no hay allowed" stipulation kinda worries me. Like, no hay period, not even certified weed free hay. I'd have to feed pellets, which have to be soaked, and …. sigh. Just seems like a giant PITA. Though I do like the fact that I can get a longer backcountry permit (up to 6 days). Ergh, I hate the fact that people own like all of Montana … in Nevada I could just point and go, and not see a fence for days. I miss large swathes of BLM land. : /

A less appealing but mostly predator-free option is the Maah Daah Hey trail, which I have always wanted to see in its entirety. This is something I'd feel comfortable doing solo, but I'd need to either cache or pack feed unless there's a ton of rain all year. Also there are only 2 horse-friendly campsites that I can see, placed a bit too far apart for me to comfortably say I could traverse in a day, so I probably wouldn't be able to do the entire trail. Le sigh. I'm glad I'm starting this early, at this rate it will take 6 months for me to plan anything at all.

-- Kai
 
#5 ·
If you want to experience the area around Glacier with less regulation, there are a ton of nice trail areas in northwest Montana around Kalispell/Columbia Falls and north up into Eureka. Use certified weed-free hay, or check that grazing is allowed, and you should be ok. For a wonderful Montana experience, hire an outfitter and take a week and go into the Bob Marshall. If the schedule works for you and you own an Appaloosa (I think you do?) consider the Chief Joseph trail ride. They cover about 100 miles in a 5-day stretch over a part of the trail used by the Nez Perce trying to escape the Cavalry.
 
#6 ·
If you want to experience the area around Glacier with less regulation, there are a ton of nice trail areas in northwest Montana around Kalispell/Columbia Falls and north up into Eureka. Use certified weed-free hay, or check that grazing is allowed, and you should be ok. For a wonderful Montana experience, hire an outfitter and take a week and go into the Bob Marshall. If the schedule works for you and you own an Appaloosa (I think you do?) consider the Chief Joseph trail ride. They cover about 100 miles in a 5-day stretch over a part of the trail used by the Nez Perce trying to escape the Cavalry.




@SilverMaple re: Chief Joseph Trail Ride . . .



I JUST finished this year's ride!!
it was my first time EVER doing any kind of horse camping/ longer distance riding. it was quite the experience. I rented a mount. I can tell you more about it if you like, but if a person is wanting solitude in the wilderness, this is NOT the ride for that.
 
#10 ·
Can I go? I make a great camp bit$h.
The Bob Marshall is a great place to go. Much better than Glacier. But there are grizzlies in both. I prefer the Frank Church because there are only black bears. If you want to come this way (north Idaho) I know some great places.
Just about anywhere you go horse camping now bear proof paniers are required.
 
#11 ·
I would not base a ride around whether or not there are bears. Use common sense regarding food transport and storage (use bear-proof containers, don't keep food in your tent, etc) and be aware when riding. Make noise, talk. If you're by yourself, put a bell on your saddle or pack horse's halter so you don't have to remember to keep talking. Bears are generally not a concern as long as they hear you coming and can move away. Pay attention to your horses-- they will alert you to grizzlies long before you see the bear. I have yet to have any horse react in any way to black bears. They did notice grizzlies, though, so watch them and they are a good warning system.


I lived in NW Montana for several years. We rode or camped in the backcountry nearly every weekend and for several days a week in the summer, and never had an issue with bears, including grizzlies. We did use a lot of caution where there might be moose, as those are far more dangerous than bears. Most bears, especially in wilderness areas, are on the shy side and will leave you alone. We saw some black bears sitting by the trail watching us go by, but never any grizzlies closer than about half a mile. You are far more likely to be hurt by moose, other people, lightning/weather, or your own horse.
 
#13 ·
@tinyliny I would like to hear more about the Chief Joseph ride. I read about it last year and the thought hadn't even occurred to me that this might be an option lol. At the moment I am planning on doing my horse-cation with a friend of mine, and perhaps a small handful of others if they'd like to join, but I wasn't really planning on going with a massive group. Although if my current plans fall through, I definitely don't want to go alone so I would be very interested in the CJTR as a backup.
@elkdog I was kinda hoping I'd have a volunteer or two who wanted to join me. Preferably someone who's done this before so at least one person in the party knows what the heck is going on lol. If you want to come, I'm down. I won't know where I'm going until this winter though - it all depends on when I get vacation time next year, which I will know in December.

I'm still undecided about whether I want to go like CAMPING camping or just have a base camp and make several day rides out from there. Obviously backcountry camping would be the shiz but since I've never done it with a horse before I am a bit hesitant. Also, if I need to bring a pack horse my only option is Thunder the Shire, and while I feel he'd make an excellent pack animal for short rides I'm not sure what kind of gas tank he's got …. he's built for power not endurance. I'm not sure he'd be able to keep up with us all day. Or do you not ride very long on packing trips? For those of you who have packed before, how long do you ride before you quit for the day? Obviously we'd be almost exclusively walking so not moving very fast … do you stop to let the horses graze every once in a while or just keep trucking till you reach the day's destination? COULD a Shire theoretically be used as a pack animal? He'll be 3 by the time I go so not a baby anymore, though I won't want to load him down either.

-- Kai
 
#14 ·
Edit -

After reading your description of the CJTR, @tinyliny, I can regrettably say that it's not for me. Everything sounds great but I will not have anyone to move my truck and trailer every day to the next location, so for that reason I'll have to pass on that ride. Everything else sounded like a ton of fun though. It sounds like you had a great time though, and someday if I ever have a chauffeur I'll have to give that ride a whirl! : )

-- Kai
 
#15 ·
I did some reading last night and I think I'm starting to warm up to this horse packing idea. From the sound of things we'd be able to travel in relative comfort (as long as there is grass … no available grass means we'd have to pack cubes or pellets and that will take up so much weight that it's not even going to be worth the time) and if we take things slowly and plan ahead it looks like the hardest part of the trip will be distributing the load evenly. I originally wanted to go backcountry anyway. : )

-- Kai
 
#16 ·
^ If you haven't done horse packing/camping before, hire an outfitter, take a couple of friends, and let the outfitter supply everything and the pack animals. Some will want you to use their saddle horses, others are ok with you using personal horses as long as they provide the pack stock. Listen, watch, ask questions, and enjoy! Taking your first few overnight sojourns into the backcountry with someone experienced, even if you have to pay them, is well worth it for your peace of mind, and the safety of yourself and the stock. The outfitter will also know what the laws are in whatever area you are in regarding forage-- many areas do not allow stock to forage and they must be hi-lined. Others allow only certified weed-free hay. More recently, even that is outlawed and pellets are all that is allowed.

If you are dead-set against an outfitter, I'd recommend finding somewhere to park your truck/trailer and riding out from there each day. If that goes well, then progress to a single overnight 'out and back ride' for a few trips, and then go from there in the future. A multi-day backcountry point A to point B ride is amazing, but if you run into any trouble or mistakes, can go downhill, literally and figuratively, in a big hurry. If you''re really interested in packing, some backcountry horsemen chapters can help you learn the basics, and there are also courses in safe back-country packing and usage that are well worth the cost. Call Outfitter's Supply in Columbia Falls and see if they know of anyone in your area to help you learn, or if they are doing a 'basics of packing' weekend anytime. When I lived in NW Montana, they were the place to go for anything packing-related and always eager to help people learn to do it safely.

A Shire is likely to do better as a pack animal than the stockier draft breeds, but there is a reason outfitters usually use mules or sturdy draft crosses rather than purebred drafts-- a tall horse is a royal PITA to pack. It's hard to get the load on, hard to balance it, and the horse will be catching it on overhanging trees all the time. A load on a tall horse is also top-heavy, and on a steep trail or in case of an accident, a tall horse is far more likely to go over the side of the trail because of his pack than a short horse. Drafts also eat more and require more water, and tend not to have the endurance of a smaller horse or cross. I'm sure some people do pack successfully with a draft, but I wouldn't do it for more than a short day ride. If something goes wrong with a 2000-pound horse, it's a lot harder to help him than a 1200-lb horse.
 
#17 ·
I had thought about hiring an outfitter, especially since this is my first "hike" so to speak. I'm not opposed to the idea but I don't know about availability … by the time I know what dates I'm going and where I'm going, I will only have about 5 months to make everything happen and I'm not sure if the outfitter would need more notice or even if they are free, etc. All I can do is call and ask I suppose. I would rather save the money and do it myself but I do realize how expensive a mistake would be so hiring an outfitter would be money well spent. It's gotta be my horse though. I'm doing this specifically so I can do something fun with Dreams … he is non negotiable. Thunder I'm okay leaving behind, I was thinking just this morning about the height issues he may present.

As far as the trails go I was planning on calling the backcountry ranger station of whatever park I'll be going to and asking them for recommendations for a beginner-friendly trail or general area. I want this to be as stress-free as possible, so easy trails that are short and safe are the ones I'll be after. I'd be looking at more of a challenge if it was just Dreams, but if I'm bringing a pack horse along I want the whole thing to be as boring as possible.

If forage is not available and/or grazing is prohibited I will definitely be doing day rides from a base camp. Thunder alone cannot bring enough feed for 3 horses for more than a day or so and he's the only pack beast I'll have. I would really like to take him packing, I think it would be a heck of a lot of fun, but I'm not opposed to leaving him behind if he's just not going to work out.

-- Kai
 
#18 ·
Dates have been finalized!! August 19th-23rd 2019

WE HAS A DATE!!

After a lot of thought and discussion Robert and I decided to do a collection of day rides rather than a packing trip, due to our combined inexperience. I think for this first trip, day rides will be easier to organize, and there will be less opportunity for things to go drastically wrong (and since we won't be so far out, if things do go wrong it will be easier to get help). We wanted to camp inside the park, but all of the horse camping sites inside Yellowstone were far enough out that they'd require packing to get to, which of course defeats the purpose. So we've instead decided to stay just outside the park, in National Forest land near Gardiner to the north, and do day rides into the park each day. There's a sweet cabin there with bunks for 6 people and permanent corrals for 6 horses that we're trying to reserve. If not, it'll be tents and high-lines … I'll know on Monday.

We finally managed to get our vacations lined up so the date of the trip will be the week of August 19th through the 23rd. We planned on arriving on the 19th, riding for the next 3 days, and leaving the 23rd. If we can do a short morning ride before we leave that would be sweet but if not no biggie. This is officially the all-call for anyone who'd like to join us … stay with us or meet up along the way, whatever works. It would be nice to get a medium sized group together and hang out by the fire at the end of each day's ride (as long as there aren't any burn restrictions). All ages, disciplines and skill levels welcome - sure would be great to see you there. : )

-- Kai
 
#19 ·
oh yes! that sounds like a wonderful plan! I spent one night in Gardner, many years ago, when my brother and I arrived at the entrance to Yellowstone park too late to be allowed to enter. We found THE LAST hotel room in Gardner, and we had to share a bed! eeeuuw! sleeping with your brother!



But, this sounds like a wonderful plan. I look forward to hearing about your adventures.
 
#20 ·
I've not ridden much on the north side of the park, But we do usually come up and ride in Yellowstone each year.
We camp Outside the park and drive in and day ride the various trails.

You have to get a use permit from the Park Service for each day. When you get the permit. They may/may not approve it depending on if there is any bear activity in that area. Last Sept we rode up the Cascade Lake trail past Grebe and Wolf lakes. This is just north of Canyon Junction. The second day we rode up Pelican Creek, Trailhead is near Fishing Bridge. On previous years we have ridden up Alum Creek, to Mary Lake. But it was closed for bear activity last September. We also ride in from the Southern Boundary at Bechler Meadows Ranger Station or from Turpin Meadows. Several days of riding in the park from both trail heads. And dispersed camping is nearby requiring little or no moving of your trailer.

Also there is a ton of riding int he Jedidiah Smith Wilderness just south of Yellowstone. We like riding South Boone Creek, Coyote Meadows and both North Leigh into Granite Basin and Alaska Basin trails
 
#21 ·
@Painted Horse Where are the best locations to park the trailer in the park? That's one question I haven't got around to asking a ranger yet … when we were there the year before last I was scoping out the parking situation and it seemed like the vast majority of the time there wasn't enough room to park even my 2-horse straight load near any of the good trailheads. Of course we were on foot and since it was our first time in the park and we didn't have two weeks to see everything we kept to the short hikes mostly … I think our longest hike was the walk up to the top of the overlook for Grand Prismatic Spring (worth it!).

We want to do a ride on the north side of the park one day, one on the western side, and one toward the south near the lake if we can. I remember there was a pullout for horses (complete with hitching rails) just outside the canyon headed to Mammoth, so that's probably what we'll use for the north side. After consulting my maps it looks like the western side won't be too difficult to find a spot either … but I've never been to the southern part of the park so any pullouts or decent areas to park down there would be helpful. Off the beaten path is a plus, as long as it's navigable with a truck and trailer. : )

-- Kai
 
#24 ·
@Painted Horse Where are the best locations to park the trailer in the park?

-- Kai
Lots of trail heads have room to park rigs.

Pelican Creek ( just east of Fishing Bridge) has a nice big parking area.
Mary Mountain trail up Alum creek is just parking in the hiway pull offs along the road. Plenty of room in each pull off for multiple rigs and several pull offs near the trailhead

Cascade Lake Trail head was big enough for us to park 3 GN rigs in the parking

On the SW corner of the park. Bechler Meadow Ranger Station has room for lots of trailers and nearby is Fish Lake and Grassy Lake Reservoir Both of which have lots of room

You now have to obtain a Day Use permit to ride in the park. When you get the permit, The ranger can give you advice on where to park
 
#23 ·
I live north of Plains, MT up in the mountains here in NW Montana. We have a ton of places to ride up here and you can make your base camp pretty much anywhere and drive from your camp to various trail heads or just go back on gated forests service roads and timber company roads that go for miles and miles. If you don't want to camp in the wilderness but just ride in it you can camp at the fair grounds and trailer up to your trail for the day. We have both black and grizzly bears but no where near as many as Glacier and Yellowstone. The fair grounds has corrals where you can keep horses while camping there. You just have to call them and tell them what you want to do and they will give you a camping price. It is the Sanders County fairgrounds.
 
#25 ·
Let's talk legs protection

Well we're getting down to the nitty gritty, as my dad likes to say - just about a month till go time.

I'M GETTING SO FREAKING EXCITED OBJWOBJADEJER;OIGJERGDKF

So for all of you that do long trail rides, particularly over strenuous terrain, do you use leg boots for your horses? I've got a pair of SMB IIs for Dreams' fronts, but I really only use them for shorter (half-day or less) trail rides in areas where there are a lot of stickers, cacti, or other things that could scratch his legs. I feel like with that neoprene lining they'd be hot for an all day ride though? Or would they be fine? Dreams is a pretty surefooted, 'picky' kind of horse - he'll pick out the best part of the trail and takes care when stepping over or through things.

Thunder, on the other hand … well … he just sort of crashes through stuff like a rhino on crack. He's not particularly keen on sticking to established trails, and he's perfectly okay just plowing through the underbrush. I kinda want to shave his feathers off before we go … I think that might keep him a bit cooler? It'll certainly help with stickers and mud and stuff like that. What do you guys think? Also, will boots be beneficial for him or nah? To be honest, I'm okay with him banging himself up a bit and learning that he needs to be a bit more careful with his feet. I don't want him to really hurt himself though, so I'm of two minds on the topic.

SO - what do you guys think? SMBs for the ponies? Some other boot that performs better? No boots? Wraps? Two legs or four? What say you?

-- Kai
 
#26 ·
You don't want SMB's on for long periods. They overheat the leg and can damage the tendon. They're really only meant to be used for short periods of arena work.



We rode all over NW Montana and never put boots on anyone. I think it would be dangerous to have them on-- I want my horse to be able to feel if he's bumping something, and I don't want anything on his legs something can get caught in, or that could catch in something while crossing water.



It wouldn't hurt to trim Thunder's feathers. You don't want to scalp him or his newly-sensitive legs will get sunburned and sore, but trimming up his feathers so they don't get full of burrs/stickers or snag brush isn't a bad idea. If you want to clip the feather, do it NOW so it has time to grow out a bit to protect his legs from the underbrush, sun, and insects.
 
#27 ·
I figured SMBs would be too hot … I was prepared to buy something else but if I don't have to, that's fine with me - like you said, less to get waterlogged or caught on things. We'll definitely be crossing some rivers so that would fo sho be an issue. Feather trimming will be a bit fun lol since I don't have any clippers … a friend has one of those super tiny ones used for bridle paths but I don't think that would hold up to Thunder's thicket. I was planning on just playing hairdresser for an hour and going after it with the scissors? I use scissors for everything else … Mane, tail, bridle paths. I like to think I'm pretty decent at cutting hair, but of course feathers are going to be a bit different. I'll be sad to see the feathers go - I love his hairy feets - but I really do think he'll have an easier time without them for this trip. His hair grows back super fast too, so I anticipate he'll be feathery again before the end of the year.

Lol I can't wait to see Thunder muffin with his nekked legs. :rofl:

-- Kai
 
#28 ·
Honestly, I am envious! I miss horse camping. A cabin and corrals would be sheer heaven!
I could start offering advice but the fact that I am a champion worrywart makes me keep myself in check. I would not use wraps. A SPOT locator is a great emergency gadget. Carry emergency items and info on your person, not the horse. An ID tag on the horse is helpful if needed. I have a hitch lock for the trailer but do not leave it on while traveling in case of a needed emergency disconnect. Never wear boots that are not comfortable to walk in. You might get some hints from the Back Country Horseman site. I'm sure there are other good sites out there.
Have a really great experience!!!!!!!!
 
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#29 ·
I honestly wouldn't use leg protection. SMB's would get too hot.....

For just a day of trail riding I never put protection on the horse's legs. The only time I do is when I'm conditioning for endurance rides - then I put lightweight splint boots on my horse. I have 2 pairs of SMB's and honestly never use them for any trail riding. I would also imagine you would have a mess of burrs and thistles stuck in them by the end of a days' ride.

Super excited for your trip - horse camping is so much fun!! I wish I got to go more often.
 
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