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Double D-Rings. How to cinch?

36K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  Rain Shadow  
#1 ·
So getting my horses into shape after the winter off means I'm into my "fat" tack. Or using my grandfather's saddle, until Star gets into some semblance of shape.

He uses a King Endurance saddle, and cinches it like you would a normal saddle. But I doubt that is right, since its double D rigged.

So how do I do it up properly?

Its this saddle, though an older leather model. I love the saddle and it fits her great in her fat periods, but yeah I need to get it on her properly.

King Trekker Saddle with Horn - Statelinetack.com


Another issue, is that its my 6'2 grandfather's saddle, and my 5'6 legs can not reach the stirrups, but they appear to be frozen. How can I unfreeze them so I can adjust the saddle?

I'm tempted to go bareback, since I just spent the last hour arguing with said saddle.
 
#3 ·
Cant really see the picture, does it have two D rings under the fender? or do you mean the ring for the cinch and the back girth? If its the two under the fender, so two for the main cinch, I would say they are just two rigging position options, most probably 7/8ths and 3/4.
 
#4 ·
I think what you're getting at is the saddle should be cinched in "endurance mode" where front ring and back ring connect to one cinch and form a 'y' shape??? Doing it this way, the cinch is moved away from the elbow area and gives more freedom of movement while maintaining security.
 
#7 ·
Where is the off-side D set at?

If it's in the middle, then it should be center-fire rigged (the Y you're referring to). If it's at the front, like the near-side Ds, it should be rigged like a normal 7/8 or 3/4.
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#12 · (Edited)
The two illustrations are so different, can you post a pic of what you have?

The King Tekker looks like similar rigging to my trail saddle, with a single D at the girth area, and another higher up at the rear of the seat.

I start mine in the front D drop it through the cinch's ring,
straight up through the front D again
back down to the cinch,
tighten and use the cinch prong in tie strap hole,
then angle it up to the rear D, pull it tight, and tie it off,
keeps the knot out of the way :)
the tail hangs down from the rear.
Important - also use the same length tie strap for the off side, and keep them even. Do not use a regular off billet.

I like being able to adjust both sides, and tightening it at the rear sort of pulls the whole saddle down straight (level) rather than more at the front.

I have seen one that started and ended in the back, but not sure how it was threaded and haven't tried it.

The diagram bsms posted of the 3-way rigging is excellent.
 
#13 ·
Just looked at the instructions posted while I was typing, seems I am tying off too soon.
However will probably keep doing it same as I have been. It is the way I learned on my Sharon Saare and I like tying it off more than relying on the prong twice.
 
#16 ·
You mean there are two rings on both the on side and the off side? The way that you rig your saddle should be identical on both sides (the full, 7/8, 3/4 BSMS showed). So if you're doing a 7/8 rigging on the on side you need a 7/8 rigging on the off (you can't do an off side 7/8 with an off side billet you need a latigo)
You know how an english saddle has three billets on both sides yet only two buckles? Its similar outcome to this the first two are full rigging, the first and last are 7/8 and the last two are 3/4
 
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#18 ·
I've always figured my rump ties the aft end of the saddle down, so to speak. On the occasions it does not, then my horse gets her back aired out a little.

If I roped, then the weight of the steer pulling on the front end would be a consideration. But I don't, so I guess my rump and Mr Gravity will continue to do the job.

This older thread has some good info: http://www.horseforum.com/trail-riding/endurance-saddle-center-fire-rigging-112754/
 
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#20 · (Edited)
bsms,

Thanks, liked the previous post and the links. Also looked up a pic of my trail saddle, and Abetta. Seems the rear rings are more D shaped than I thought, but very large.

Very hesitant to post this pic as I am too heavy even without 4 layers of heavy winter clothing, and Elwood is quite upside down. But in the interest of the discussion I will post it. Note I am using a very wide cinch.





PS to Rain Shadow:

You might try starting on the back ring of the 3-way front fixture, then you could still tie off on the front one, keeping the knot more forward, away from your leg.
 
#21 ·
Aandankev: Your weight is find and you have a beautiful horse. I love Appy's. But in your picture, even your front D-ring looks further back then then even the back one on my King. Though that just be because Star has such a long back, everything looks funky on her.

So if I'm understanding this right, the very last D is for the rear cinch, and the two front ones are just to change the ringing? Correct?
 
#22 ·
Yep first two are the regular cinch and can be used separate or together and the one in the very back behind the fender is for a back cinch
 
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#23 ·
After my crappy day today, (broke up with boyfriend and my barn cat died) my grandfather took me tack shopping and bought me my own King Saddle! One that actually fits me! Its identical to his, except for being a smaller seat.

Here it is! If full rigging. Might move it back some. What do you guys think? Still just to change rigging?

Image


Image
 
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